Familial Food
New Mexican spot Otomi Comida y Cocteles now open in Raleigh
If you’ve ever worked in a restaurant—or watched The Bear—you know the family meal is one of the most important traditions in a dining establishment. Not only does it ensure staff is fed before service, but it gives the kitchen crew a chance to experiment with different ingredients at hand.
It was those traditional staff sit-downs that shaped the vision for former Irregardless head chef Juan Carlos Lugo’s new Mexican restaurant Otomi Comida y Cocteles. “The best food we ever had at Irregardless was when Juan would cook family meal every night,” says Irregardless and Otomi co-owner Lee Robinson. … “It was all inspired by family meal.”
In addition to Irregardless, Lugo spent 21 years perfecting his culinary craft in various kitchens—not to mention alongside his mother—in preparation for his new culinary hot spot, which opened in the former Brookside Bodega space earlier this summer and serves a hearty helping of cultural heritage and personal history.
“I usually cooked food I grew up eating, and the employees loved it. So that’s where the idea [for Otomi] was born—the idea to share that with the people.”
Juan Carlos Lugo
Named after one of Mexico’s indigenous languages, Otomi honors Lugo’s mother, a native Otomi speaker. “She was always my mentor and my role model,” he adds. “I hope I can make her proud trying to represent her by cooking the way she taught me.”
To wit, the menu pays homage to the flavors and techniques passed down from his mother in Mexico City, blending tradition with creativity to craft dishes that captivate the taste buds. Think Mexican soul food like guisados, tacos, quesadillas and burritos, all complemented by a full bar featuring house cocktails, frozen drinks and more.
According to co-owner Lee Robinson, the transition from Brookside Bodega into Otomi was sparked by a need for change. “Brookside Bodega just wasn’t taking off the way we wanted to, and it was time for a pivot,” he explains.
With a more colorful interior filled with Otomi-inspired artwork and lush greenery, the space now radiates a more community-oriented atmosphere, says Robinson.
“We want the whole community to come out,” he urges. “All are welcome. We want to be a neighborhood hub, but also be good enough for people from outside the neighborhood to come check us out—because we’re doing something pretty cool and unique.” Talk about a family affair. otomicomida.com
