Ahead of Raleigh’s last IBMA World of Bluegrass fest (Sept. 24–28), Billy Warden—who helped launched the festival with former business partner Greg Behr—reflects on its transformative decade-long run.
Who would’ve thunk that one of the brightest chapters in Raleigh history would involve so many banjo jokes? Since the International Bluegrass Music Association’s annual festival first landed here in 2013, the good-natured jabs have flown as fast as the notes in an Earl Scruggs solo.
“We were worried we’d be late,” one band deadpanned onstage. “Our banjo player locked himself inside his car again.”
But the festival’s success here is no joke. It was that once-in-a-blue-moon party where everyone leaves their country club insignias and other status symbols at home and shows up with the sole purpose of gettin’ down. With the jamboree wrapping up its run in Raleigh before moving on to Chattanooga, it’s worth celebrating the music made and lessons learned.
As bluegrass lyrics make achingly clear, the world used to be considerably different. In 2013, Richard Florida’s bestseller The Rise of the Creative Class was still an economic development lodestar, with its accent on trailblazing tech workers and hipster hang outs. Every mid-size city in America pined for its own version of Austin’s South by Southwest (SXSW), a “signature event” at the crowded crossroads of music, media, tech, design and uber just-flew-in-from-the-coast coolness.
Meanwhile, Raleigh was primed to host a major happening of some kind. The city had recently constructed a gleaming convention center and an accompanying amphitheater—along with reviving Downtown’s main artery, Fayetteville Street.
When a team that included staff from the Greater Raleigh Convention and Visitors Bureau, the Raleigh Convention Center, PineCone (Piedmont Council of Traditional Music), and key sponsors notched a deal with IBMA, a group with a national profile, many cheered. Some, though, wondered if the appeal of bluegrass would be too narrow, or if other attractions—such as MerleFest—had already cornered the market.
But bluegrass proved the perfect centerpiece for a community love-in. The genre is familiar and easy going, though not easy to play—serving up both neighborliness and virtuosity.
Billy Warden introducing one of the hundreds of acts that’ve performed over the years. Photo courtesy of Billy Warden
Sprinkling free music stages, crafts and dance tents over a generous swath of Downtown blocks, the festival immediately caught on with the lifeblood of Raleigh—not jet-setters, but young families. Here was an event that embraced a “take the kids” ethos as emphatically as that all-time-favorite funnel cake factory, the NC State Fair.
Everybody was welcome. At the festival, I bumped into buddies from high school and their teenage kids as well as the crowd of parents who chided me when I was a young’un. This also played out on the music stages, which often featured a picker as weathered as Grandfather Mountain jamming with a wet-behind-the-ears prodigy.
My own folks—steeped in ’60s pop, classic soul and the great balladeers (namely Barry Manilow)—had no stock in bluegrass to start, but came to cherish the festival scene.
In a marvelous moment of serendipity, the music that is as old as the hills proved oddly kismet with the latest and greatest in consumer tech. Because bluegrass relies on acoustic instruments, it’s relatively easy to set up and enjoy anywhere, including in hallways, hotel rooms, and sundry other corners and crannies. This led to innumerable impromptu jam sessions that awestruck fans captured on their mobile phone cameras and transmogrified into that Holy Grail of marketing, viral videos. Eat your heart out, SXSW!
Well over 100,000 revelers poured into the festival’s debut, with the numbers building in following years. The momentum was electrifying. The zeal fueled the spunk and smarts on display in 2015 when organizers moved the entire kit-and-caboodle inside the convention center after Hurricane Joaquin changed course and barrelled down on the city. The civic-minded heroics involved ought to be taught in Raleigh elementary schools; the logistics would make instructive reading for the U.S. nuclear submarine fleet.
This arm-in-arm, the-show-must-go-on spirit again took centerstage as another potential disaster loomed—COVID-19. No festival fared particularly well during the pandemic, but the most able pivoted to an online experience. Even stripped of its in-person bonhomie, the streaming-only version of the festival in 2020 was a tonic in scary times—a home remedy that went down smoothly and reassuringly.
A decade after the festival’s debut, Raleigh is in a different spot. Rather than seeking a shot at proving itself, Downtown is bouncing back from a few challenging years, mostly involving the post-pandemic depopulation of offices. But that rebound will no doubt come. We’ve shown we have what it takes—namely a heart as big as an all-welcoming front porch.
Your guide to the land of barbecue and live music.
Let me just start off by saying, this ain’t my first rodeo (!). I love Austin—it’s one of my favorite cities. In fact, if I didn’t absolutely adore Raleigh, I’d choose to live there (though, honestly, I don’t know if I could stand that scorching heat…).
Nevertheless, it’ll be easier than ever to pop over for a long weekend getaway thanks to Delta’s extra added flight to ATX taking off in April.
Similar to Raleigh in many ways, Austin and its “weirdness”—or quirkiness, if you prefer—is exactly what makes it so attractive. Each hip sector of the city boasts its own distinct vibe—from Sixth Street’s (aka the famous entertainment district) lively bar scene to South Congress Avenue’s kitschy shops and restaurants to East Austin’s diverse cuisine and culture.
NTM the Live Music Capital of the World is, well, a mecca for music lovers (see, namely, South by Southwest and ACL Fest that attract top talent every year) and food and bev fans alike, what with its ever-growing cast of sip and sup spots gaining national attention. In the same vein as our own City of Oaks, ATX is also home to a variety of green areas and outdoor activities.
A sister city of vibrance, entertainment, excitement and all around fun, Austin promises to be a weird—er, exhilarating—getaway. Here, a few spots to set the soundtrack of your trip.
Rowing Dock
DO
Rowing Dock Row, row, row yourself gently down Lady Bird Lake via kayak, pedal kayak, canoe or stand-up paddleboard rentals as you feast your eyes on Austin’s skyline—and get a pic for the ’Gram, natch. Relax and meander through the water, or BYO bait to try your luck at catching a fish or two. Bonus: You can even paddle with your pooch via canine-friendly SUPs. rowingdock.com
Barton Springs Pool Splish, splash! One of Austin’s crown jewels, this natural spring-fed watering hole remains at a cool 68–70 degrees, making it ideal for a year-round dip. Located within Zilker Park, its teal waters are surrounded by grassy embankments for those itching to soak up some rays, while various trees offer shade for when the sun becomes too unbearable (it’s bound to happen).austintexas.org
Bat Bridge Kayak Tour The 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bat colony that emerges from under the Congress Avenue Bridge nightly is quite the sight to see—and even cooler from a POV on the water. Observe the natural wonder by kayak as your tour guide schools you on the nocturnal creatures, all while enjoying a beautiful Austin sunset and superior skyline views. #GoneBatty! lonestarkayaktours.com
EAT
Granny’s Tacos I could write an entire dissertation on Austin’s breakfast taco scene (So. Many. Great. Options.), but Granny’s Tacos might be my favorite. Served out of a simple food truck on East 7th and East Caesar Chavez streets, these bad boys are the real deal thanks to family recipes passed down by generations and scratchmade salsas, marinades and seasonings. My go-to is a bacon, egg and cheese brekkie taco, but the migas is also delicious. Taco ’bout a great way to start the day!grannystacosatx.com
Gabriela’s Downtown For immaculate brunch vibes, look no further than this happenin’ Mexican spot boasting locations in East and South Austin. Post up on the spacious outdoor patio and groove to the beat of a live DJ while chowing down on authentic fare (pro tip: Order the choriqueso) and sippin’ on elaborate drinks (see: the signature “Sparklers” served in a literal blender). It’s giving clubby Miami resort—and I’m here for it. @gabrielasdowntown
Terry Black’s Barbecue You can’t go to Austin without eating at Terry Black’s. Period. The inevitable long line is beyond worth it for the legendary Central Texas pit-smoked meats and housemade sides. For the full experience, order the melt-in-your-mouth brisket, juicy sausage, and creamy mac and cheese. But really the best way to do it is to bring a crew and try it all. terryblacksbbq.com
Ramen Tatsu-Ya It’s not all tacos and BBQ in Austin—the city’s ramen game is also strong, and one visit to this noodle haven touting five ATX locations is all the proof you need. The “Japanese soul food” spot is a collab between local chefs/DJs Tatsu Aikawa and Takuya Matsumoto—and you can bet their heart-warming bowls put that 10-cent grocery store ramen to shame.ramen-tatsuya.com
DRINK
Flat Track Coffee Roasters Rise and grind with a visit to this industrial biker-themed coffeehouse and cafe serving up all your fave coffee and espresso bevs made with freshly roasted beans and custom house blends. The cute and quaint patio is the ideal perch for enjoying a cuppa, along with baked goodies like croissants, cookies and kolaches. flattrackcoffee.com
Cosmic
Cosmic An escape within an escape, both Cosmic locations are nationally recognized wildlife habitats showcasing local art, music, purveyors and craft beer in a lush outdoor-focused setting. Backdropped by serene water features, flora and fauna, and various vibrant art, the all-day oasis makes for the perf gathering space to enjoy a coffee by day, or something a little stronger by night. cosmichospitalitygroup.com
Upstairs at Caroline Where my rooftop bar lovers at?! You could—and should—spend the whole afternoon whiling away at this “urban backyard party” above Caroline Restaurant offering comfy lounge spots, colorful picnic tables and games galore (think giant Jenga, foosball, cornhole and checkers) in a secluded yet funky AstroTurf-covered terrace. NTM refreshing drinks and snacks that are a perfect match for day (or night) drinking. carolinerestaurant.com
Low Down Lounge I’m a dive bar gal at heart (cheap drinks FTW!), and luckily Austin has no shortage of them. This retro-esque East Sixth drinking den has it all: decently priced cocktails, shots (they make a mean pickleback), beers and seltzers; pool; a hangworthy patio; and a plethora of pop-up events with food, music, comedy and more. The lowdown? No matter what’s going on, you can always expect a good time. lowdownlounge.com
