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Chicago’s bitter little secret is taking Raleigh bars by storm.
Burnt rubber, gasoline, lighter fluid. Not the smell from an auto body shop, but the tasting notes of the infamous Chicago-born liqueur that is Malört.
While some may have never heard of it, most who have despise it (a recent poll on RM’s Instagram revealed a whopping 70% of followers were not fans)—and then there’s the small growing contingent that actually enjoys the stuff. Perhaps it’s a very specific taste bud. Or lack thereof.
For those who aren’t familiar, describing what exactly Malört tastes like is no easy task. The revered and reviled wormwood-based digestif is shockingly bitter, with an intense, polarizing taste that lingers on the tongue. Taking a shot feels unethical, like it’s something you’re not actually supposed to be ingesting. And regret is almost immediate.
Even the brand pokes fun at itself: “Do Not Enjoy. Responsibly.” “Weeding out the weak since 1933.” “It’s not a drink for most people, but we’re not most people.”
So why, then, is the spirit gaining popularity here in Raleigh? While local bars Slim’s and Dram & Draught have been big proponents for years—with the former hosting monthly First Friday Malört tastings—you can now find the shot at multiple spots across town. Even Gussie’s recently added a cocktail to its menu starring Malört.
For his part, Slim’s co-owner Bill Johnson discovered the liqueur about 15 years ago on a guys’ trip to the Windy City, but it wasn’t until around 2024 when he bought the bar that Malört could legally be sold in NC. Now, Slim’s is the No. 1 seller in the state.
“It suits Slim’s very well—it kind of tastes like Slim’s,” he says. “The real magic around it is it always creates a conversation… and it’s a definite way to connect with people in a way that’s extremely unusual and sometimes distasteful.”
Malört’s polarity is precisely what makes it so appealing, agrees Johnson and Dram co-owner Kevin Barrett—whether you actually like the taste or just enjoy hazing others with it, it’s a conversation starter. (Malört is a common “try this” prank shooter for novice drinkers and a service industry standard “handshake.”) “It’s fun to lean into something that people have such strong opinions about and present it in new and different ways that make it a little more approachable,” adds Barrett.
Bottom line: Whether you love it or hate it, one thing’s for sure—a shot of Malört is hard to forget.
Fun Fact
Though Jeppson’s is the most popular name in the category—clocking in at 35% ABV (70 proof)—other similar bitter spirits do exist. “Malört” is simply the Swedish word for wormwood, the bitter herb used to make the liquor, and belongs to a traditional style of Scandinavian bitter schnapps called bäsk.
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