Raleigh chef swaps brick-and-mortar for live open-fire pop-up concept.
Marc Russell has been cooking with fire for years—and he isn’t afraid to get burned. It’s what got him into the barbecue world, ultimately leading him to open Longleaf Swine in 2022 with partner Adam Cunningham. Now, having stepped away from that DTR flame earlier this year, Russell is stoking his love of the technique with his new open-fire pop-up concept Buccan.
SHUCK, YEAH: Buccan chef/owner Marc Russell shucking oysters at a summer pop-up.
Officially firing up at Wolfe & Porter’s Tiki Fest this spring, Buccan—dubbed for an indigenous Puerto Rican-style grill traditionally made from tree branches (fun fact: it’s also the root of the word “buccaneer”)—blazed on the scene with chicken/steak/squash skewers and roasted oysters hot off a versatile live-fire grill modeled after the one used by Aussie culinary legend Charly Pretet of Terra Firma Dining.
“It’s more than just a kettle-style grill,” maintains Russell. “It’s gonna be super-intimate and immersive for the guest—like a showpiece at the event.” The multifunctional grill stand will allow him to flex his culinary muscles to do everything from casual “roysters” a la Tiki Fest to hanging low-and-slow smoked proteins—with plenty of room to play with flavor-packed veggie, tofu and tempeh takes.
“Cooking with fire is the most satisfying form of cooking for me,” he muses. “It’s not just turning a range on and putting your pan down and building a sauce. It’s something you have to constantly manage and tend to for hours and hours and hours—and that’s something I really enjoy doing.”
Over the summer, the sizzling new concept also popped up at The Artist Lounge’s Rosé All Day soiree. And, come fall, he’s turning up the heat on a possible dinner series via the likes of a farm dinner at a friend’s Saxapahaw farm.
“I’m just looking forward to being back outdoors and cooking with a live open fire again,” Russell enthuses. “And I’m excited to have this vessel to be able to do so many different things on.” Get fired up! @buccan_co
Chew on the latest food & bev news in Raleigh and beyond.
Patio season was in full swing this summer with the openings of Peregrine’s and Tamasha’s outdoor oases, each with their own new slew of ops to sip and snack on in the sun.
Skip the backyard grill sesh for newly debuted Inka Grill, a VA-based Peruvian restaurant now open in the former Capital Club 16 space on West Martin Street. Menu faves include lomo saltado, ceviche, Peruvian-style paella and other authentic eats.
That’s a wrap—literally. After 15 years slinging noodles and folding fan-fave dumplings, David’s Dumpling & Noodle Barserved its last slurp July 13.
Oh, how sweet it is! Escazu moved from its longtime North Blount Street digs to a larger space in Gateway Plaza, still dishing out confections, ice cream, hot chocolate and other bevs. And the former spot is in good hands—Stanbury’s cooking up something new.
Pour one out for Cornerstone Tavern, which closed its doors after 13 years in late July. Shortly after, two new concepts—The Row and Arcadia—opened in its place.
West Coast meets East Coast via coastal-inspired K38 Baja Mexican Grill, bringing its popular tacos, fajitas, burritos, enchiladas and more to Seaboard Station this fall.
Just in time for NC’s unpredictable seasonal mood swings, La Terrazza dropped retractable glass walls around its iconic rooftop patio—blocking the weather drama but locking in all the good vibes, tantalizing ’tails and bangin’ bites.
Drop anchor on your boring midday meals and post up at Boatman Spirits Co., now serving up weekend lunch. Expect your same faves from the dinner menu—plus a few new bites coming soon.
Boatman Spirits Co. | Photo by Forrest Mason
Slice, slice, baby! Oakwood Pizza Box’s highly anticipated takeout-only Capital Pizza Box location is now slinging pies on Wake Forest Road. Look out for a special event space coming soon to boot.
Asheville fave Botiwalla by Chai Pani is coming to Raleigh Iron Works next spring. A love letter to late-night Irani cafes, the restaurant features charcoal-cooked kababs, rice bowls, chaat and okra fries—plus boozy slushies, chai and lassi.
Gotta risk it for the biscuit. All-day breakfast, brunch and lunch concept Flying Biscuit Cafe is set to drop its fifth Triangle location at Wake Forest Crossing on Capital Boulevard soon.
An offer you can’t refuse: Beloved Omaha, Nebraska-based franchise Godfather’s Pizza is making its return to Raleigh with a new slice of real estate on Glenwood Ave. this fall.
Alexa, play “Good Graces” by Sabrina Carpenter—and brace yourself for good eats and drinks at highly anticipated market, bar and eatery dubbed, ahem, Good Graces, now open at NHID with a menu of fresh, healthy eats, plus coffee and cocktails.
Get your tickets to Flavortown. … Guy’s Pizza Joint is officially slicing it up at RDU Airport, slinging signature pies like The Guy-talian and OG Hamburger Pizza—plus freshly made to-go sandwiches, wraps, salads, breakfast items and the like.
Tea time, anyone? In not-so-little news, DTR coffee shop Little Native expanded with hidden “speakTEAsy” Littlest Tea Roomand maker space/retail outpost Littlest Shoppe.
Midday vibes, Napa style. Napa Bistro & Wine Bar recently rolled out lunch and brunch, serving up classic weekend faves like quiche, chicken and waffles, and Benedict.
Meet Hub RTP’s latest G.O.A.T. James Beard Award-nominated Preeti Waas’ boutique bodega Nanny Goat is the first concept to bow at Horseshoe, dishing chef-prepared meals, local artisan goods, fresh produce, baked items, coffee, beer and wine, gifts, and specialty imported goods.
Nanny Goat | Photo courtesy of The Plaid Penguin
Cowabunga! Lawrence Barbecue closed its Boxyard RTP chapter with a bang, delivering one last superior service in early August before its move to upcoming digs in downtown Cary.
Chef Michael Lee is on a roll, switching up his M Test Kitchen at Fenton to M Izakaya, featuring an updated menu, interior renovations and a new sushi menu coming soon.
Taste the rainbow of vibrant Mexican flavors at Cary’s new Meche Cocina Mexicana, serving up classics and twists like tuna tlacoyos, quesabirria tacos, ceviche and chilaquiles nachos—plus margs and other ’tails to match.
Rewriting your morning routine: Narrative Coffee just opened its first permanent location in downtown Durham, pouring tasty lattes, matcha, chai and other morning bevs to jump-start your day.
We’ll always have Paris… and, by late this year, Fenton will have Sweet Paris Crêperie, specializing in crêpes (natch) and other sweet and savory French-inspired dishes.
Sweet Paris Crêperie | Photo courtesy of Fenton
Let’s ~taco~ ’bout “Better Mex” on deck. Del Taco opened its first-ever Triangle eatery earlier this summer in Durham—begging locals to flock for burritos, tacos, quesadillas and more.
Lunch on this: Magnolia Grill alum Amanda Orser is bringing serious sandwich game to Durham with LRB Provisions, set to open later this summer. The neighborhood shop will spotlight local farms and purveyors, plus housemade meats and other from-scratch staples.
Slurp on this: Locally loved Peri Brothers Pizza bowed modern Peri Brothers Italian next door, plating homemade pasta and comforting apps + mains, paired with curated wines and craft cocktails in a natural light-flooded space that strikes the perf balance between classy and moody—ideal for fam dinners, date nights and everything in between.
North Hills wants to grow again—but this time up, not out. In late August, Kane Realty submitted a rezoning request to City Council to allow taller buildings on five parcels in the Main and Lassiter districts. The proposed project wouldn’t increase how much can be built, but would make room for more open public space, pedestrian-friendly amenities, ground-floor activation and a more varied skyline.
“We’re changing the shape of what we’re zoning, not the scale,” emphasizes Kane Director of Development Kallie O’Haren Walker. Think of it like a glob of Play-Doh: You can form it tall and skinny or short and wide, but you’re still working with the same overall amount of Play-Doh.
The new request comes ~four years after Kane submitted a controversial rezoning in 2021 seeking approval for a 30-story tower at the intersection of Six Forks Road and I-440. That plan was ultimately withdrawn in 2023 amid City Council opposition and community pushback.
This time, Kane hopes a key distinction will shift the conversation: They’re not asking for more density or square footage (2,500 residential units and ~3M square feet are allowed)—just flexibility to reimagine how that same volume is shaped.
“Twenty-five years ago, we embarked on a mission to create a district in our city where people want to gather, everyday needs can be met, special occasions can be celebrated—where people can live, work, play and thrive,” recalls Kane Realty founder John Kane. “The last premier parcels in Raleigh’s Midtown deserve the best we can create with the appropriate balance of height, density and beautifully landscaped ground-level spaces.”
While specifics are still in flux, Walker envisions public gathering areas, ground-floor retail and restaurants, and opportunities for outdoor dining and activation. The additional height would also make space for outdoor amenities within the buildings themselves.
Still, this is a long game. “We have no imminent plans to start these projects,” she maintains. “This is [about] long-term planning and future flexibility—not immediate change.” With another community meeting set for sometime this fall, one thing is certain: North Hills is evolving—but exactly how it will take shape remains to be seen.
Current allowable height
5 Big Questions
Where will you park? Several of the proposed buildings would rid ground-level parking, but Walker assures each site will feature integrated decks—with the possibility of below-ground parking at the Lassiter District to boot. Phase 1 of Kane’s North Hills expansion added ~1,000 spaces, with the potential for a couple hundred more in this next phase.
What about the traffic? Traffic concerns are clearly fueling much of the conversation—especially in light of City Council’s recent decision to scrap the Six Forks Road widening project. But Kane maintains that mixed-use destinations actually reduce vehicular traffic coming into the development: When daily needs and attractions are clustered, people drive less and bike or walk more—easing congestion, lowering emissions and boosting overall mobility. In addition, Kane is also proposing adding a dedicated right turn lane from Lassiter Mill Road onto Six Forks.
Pedestrians and bike plans? Improved pedestrian and bike connectivity is another key promise Kane tied to the rezoning request, including a proposed multiuse path from Lassiter Mill down to Six Forks in the direction of I-440—serving a safer, more accessible route.
Why go tall instead? While some nearby residents have expressed frustration—noting they “don’t want to look at just another big building”—Kane is already entitled to build under current zoning and density limits. In other words, buildings will go up either way—but, per Kane, taller buildings offer more flexibility to incorporate green features, both at the ground-level and on rooftops.
How will the public benefit? Kane’s team is working with the city to identify priorities that emerged during the last rezoning. “We want to have a lot of opportunities throughout this process to talk with city staff, council and the community as a whole to make sure the project can deliver meaningful public benefits,” says Walker. Among the possibilities: an upgrade to Fire Station 9 along Rowan Street.
What will happen to existing businesses? Current businesses on the affected sites—Wells Fargo, North State Bank, Exxon and Walgreens—will be invited to stay, with construction likely to start on vacant parcels first.
One man’s trash is another man’s… next big food trend. In kitchens across the globe—and right here in Raleigh—chefs are giving scraps a glow-up, transforming would-be waste into craveworthy dishes and drinks. Dubbed “upcycled cuisine” or “zero-waste cooking,” the movement is gaining serious traction as sustainability shifts from buzzword to business model—especially in cities like Denver, Portland, NYC and DC, where dodging food waste is top of mind (see sidebar below).
Let’s be real: The stakes are high. Restaurants currently waste an average of 4 to 10% of the food they buy before it ever hits the plate—resulting in a staggering 915K+ tons of food trashed each year nationwide. That waste not only impacts the bottom line, but also strains landfill capacities and contributes significantly to methane emissions. And while curbing the waste feels a long way off, change is cooking.
Madre | Red Brewer
Making a dent in the dump, local spots are stepping up, working leftovers into the lineup like pros—literally churning would-be trash into palatable treasures. Case in point: At Crawford and Son, beef and fish trimmings morph into delightful tartares and crudos, respectively, while scraps from the roasted sea trout entree are repurposed in smoked trout rillettes.
And at budding “east meets west” gem Peregrine, chef Saif Rahman lives by using every part of a product. “I grew up in a household where we couldn’t afford to waste food,” says the celebrated chef. “We were taught to make the most of everything we had.”
He channels that mindset into his globally influenced dishes—blitzing leftover onion skins, scallions, cilantro and the like into powders as a garnish and flavor booster. But the real trash-to-treasure star? Peregrine’s chicken crackling: fried chicken skin remnants served with a chicken fat soubise dip.
Meanwhile, Madre is also taking the trend a step further with its cheekily-dubbed “garbage” artisan biscuits. An absolute must-order on the brunch menu, these aren’t your grandma’s basics. Upping the ante on the Southern delicacy, sous chef Lucas Barfield hatched the idea of incorporating leftover charcuterie scraps into a basic biscuit dough last year in a deliberate effort to cut down on waste. And Raleigh brunchers can’t get enough.
I saw this [sustainability] mindset in the restaurants I worked in, where farmers would bring in products they worked hard to grow or raise. Seeing their effort made me respect the ingredients even more—they come from real people putting in real work.” —Saif Rahman, Peregrine
Barfield’s genius carb concoction is a nod to the comforting ham and cheese biscuits his dad used to make—a nostalgic reminder of home in every bite. Spotting the overlooked off-cuts of serrano ham, chorizo, manchego, cheddar and salami from flavorful event charcuterie boards, Barfield spied the ideal savory add-in for a rich biscuit dough of flour, butter, buttermilk, cream, salt and honey—a clever mix transforming simple ingredients into a layered, indulgent biscuit that’s both familiar and unexpectedly complex.
“If you know anything about charcuterie and cheese service, you know it involves a ton of waste—something that is looked over every day,” shares Madre GM Red Brewer. “Chef Lucas’ idea to take the scraps and fold them back into something as loved as a good biscuit is the pinnacle of Madre mentality.”
Taking a note from the to-die-for biscuit’s sustainability factor, Barfield says Madre tries to cross-utilize unused scraps in other areas of the menu—or for staff meals. “We avoid throwing anything away as much as possible,” he emphasizes, with Brewer adding sustainability is a core value of the restaurant.
So, as Raleigh’s chefs turn scraps into stars, the city is quietly reshaping how we think about food and waste. This movement—rooted in respect, creativity and sustainability—isn’t just a trend, it’s becoming a way of life, proving that small changes in the kitchen can ripple out to big change on our plates and beyond.
Restaurants Transforming Food Waste Across the Country
How three locals navigate living and working car-free
If you thought you couldn’t get away with living in Raleigh car-free, think again. Even in the ’90s, a dedicated Quail Hollow professional faithfully took the CAT bus to and from his DTR Progress Energy post for a solid decade. But that dedication to a wheels-free low-footprint life is definitely rare for North Raleighites—especially in the 1900s—and easily the exception.
As a large central city, Raleigh takes the wheel as the most car-dependent major metro in the U.S. with 38 vehicle miles traveled (VMT) daily—and a walk score dipping as low as 18 in some burbs and averaging 31 in the city. The city is so reliant on cars that parking is at a premium and road construction is ongoing—or planned—for most major streets. While it may not yet be possible to change the tide citywide, it’s rolling differently Downtown.
Despite Raleigh’s carcentric sprawl, Downtown core’s respective walk, bike and transit scores of 82, 88 and 71 are perhaps a sign the city is evolving. And thanks to major strides in bikeability and Bus Rapid Transit—not to mention the influx of e-scooters and e-bikes—it’s keeping pace with cities like NYC and San Fran.
In fact, several residents have ditched their cars—saving time, money and a whole lot of stress in the process. We chatted with three locals living the “urban life” in Raleigh.
Intentional Living When local Ashton Mae Smith’s auto lease ended in 2019, it was a no-brainer not to renew. Having spent the last decade living within walking distance of her DTR office, she’s been in a one-car household with her husband and toddler ever since, spending the last six years walking, biking, scooting, bussing and ridesharing.
“I’m very intentional about choosing my doctors, exercise, son’s daycare and hobbies to be within walking distance,” says Smith, who adds she didn’t drive that much even before getting rid of her car. “That’s my preferred way to get around.”
After tracking her expenses over the years, she’s pocketed $5K a year just by skipping car ownership—savings that are reflected in her mental health as well. “Not having to think about a car is incredible,” she emphasizes. “There’s a lot of thinking about parking and is it gonna be safe and if you have something to drink do you leave it there overnight… all these things.”
Her toddler’s a fan too: “Half the adventure is riding the bus,” she says. It helps that kids ride free, tap-to-pay is seamless and their high-frequency line runs every 15 minutes.
Carless Confidence “It’s really not as hard as people think,” maintains Fayetteville Street resident Meg Crawford of her carless lifestyle. She ditched her car in San Francisco, and four-ish years after moving back to Raleigh, she’s still living that key-free life—thanks to remote work and easy access. “What’s great about Downtown,” she adds, “is it’s compact enough where you really have everything you need in a quick, easily walkable diameter. And public transportation obviously plays a role in that.”
Tapping into the tools at her fingertips, when walking won’t cut it, Crawford opts for her old triathlon bike, rideshare or even Turo—aka Airbnb for cars—which she’ll use for a jaunt to the beach or mountains. For her, the upside’s huge: She saves ~$1K a month while hitting up DTR events, cafes and restaurants on the regular—minus the hassle of traffic and parking headaches. To boot, she credits the walkable lifestyle with boosting her social life. “For me, it’s just pluses across the board,” she says. “I’m not sure I’ll ever fully own a vehicle again.”
Life Simplified For Raleigh Chamber VP of Leadership Development Shana Overdorf, the draw of DTR was about the strong community she expected to find. “But coming back Downtown meant sacrifice,” she admits—“and so when weighing my budget, the car was the first thing that could go.”
After making the move to Mira Raleigh in August 2024, she hung up her keys in January—a move she calls “freeing” and relatively easy, given her quick 471-step walk to work. While walking is her main mode, Overdorf taps into Raleigh’s full menu of options: scooters (her apartment has a few on hand), e-bikes, rideshares, carpools, the train—she’s even lined up for Raleigh’s E-Bike Rebate Program.
“I think the accessibility to different modes of transportation here—we’re really, very lucky,” emphasizes Overdorf. “It’s not that hard to figure out ways to have access to transit and transportation—but they’re also just easy to get to.” Doubling down on the community vibe, the Chamber VP reinvests her car-free savings by stacking up steps to faves like Sir Walter Coffee, The Bend, lucettegrace and A Place at the Table.
Walk Wins It’s all a sign of a city upping its urban appeal. While a current Village District dweller tells us she barely touches her keys more than once a week, another remembers feeling totally carbound just a decade ago.
Of course, it’s “not all rainbows and butterflies,” admits Crawford. Getting caught in the rain a mile walk from a destination is less than ideal, and it can take a lot of planning to get somewhere sans car. “There are definitely times where I’d really love to just jump in my car and do something that has arisen out of the blue very quickly,” she adds, “but there’s never so much of a hindrance that I can’t accomplish what I need to. The benefits definitely outweigh the negatives.”
