Ask any NCer—during the fall, Asheville is the place to be. A year out from Hurricane Helene, the WNC city is on the up, ready to welcome fall foliage chasers and brewery bums back to the Land of the Sky. But don’t just take it from me—Reader’s Digest just named Asheville the “Nicest Place in America.”
Flashing back, after floodwaters parted, Asheville gem Grand Bohemian Lodge—located in the then-devastated Biltmore Village—got right to work revamping and renewing the iconic hotel, and is now ready to tuck in tourists and locals alike. The rustic 19th-century hunting lodge-inspired design and handcarved woodwork had me feeling as if I just kicked off my boots from a hunt in the European countryside. Not to mention the luxurious-yet-cozy ambiance serves up the perfect backdrop for a couples getaway, girls trip, staycation or even solo leaf-peeping excursion.
Here, a handful of highlights from my stay at the Lodge, plus some must-see’s in the “Nicest Place in America.”
Peak Week Fall foliage tends to peak in color around the end of October, with higher elevations reaching full vibrancy a little beforehand. Regardless—if you head to the hills anytime during autumn, the vibrant views will not disappoint.
Take a Hike Getting your hands (and boots!) dirty on a hike should be a top priority in the Land of the Sky. I’ve always been partial to the wide-open spaces of Bearwallow Mountain, which is just a ~40-minute drive from the Grand Bohemian. For other paradises found nearby, try Craggy Gardens, Black Balsam Knob (or any segment of the Art Loeb Trail, really) and Looking Glass Rock. And if you want to skip the elements but still bask in Appalachian glory, try a drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway or a glass of wine at Stone Ashe Vineyards.
Eye for Art Asheville art is a must-see, and in the Lodge and city alike, it’s not hard to find. Paintings, paper sculptures (think the likes of Jean Claude Roy and Charles Clary) and jewelry adorn the walls of the Grand Bohemian Gallery—windowshopping is encouraged, but all the work is up for grabs if you fall hard for a piece. To boot, colorful canvases across the entire Lodge will line your walkabouts.
A Little R&R Switch on Do Not Disturb and indulge in a day of self-care at the in-house spa, where you can laze the day away with a facial, massage (don’t sleep on the drying brushing op) or a full body ritual. You are on vacay after all!
Eat Your Heart Out Don’t fret about reservations or whether to Uber or drive to a nearby resto. The Grand Bohemian levels up locally at on-site Red Stag Grill, serving up steakhouse faves and Appalachian eats for breakfast, brunch and dinner in a suave, hunting-inspired atmosphere. Waffles, avocado toast and acai bowls graced my breakfast table, and for dinner, the tartare and scallops paired with wine (pregamed with an Aperol spritz, natch) was a no-brainer. Pro tip: Any steak on the menu is well worth the splurge.
While Red Stag Grill has delish ops for days, the local restaurant scene calls—and you should answer. Find foodie heaven at Neng Jr’s, Chai Pani and Mother—and if you’re willing to commit to a drive a little further away, West First Wood-Fired in Hendersonville is unmatched for its pizza and salads.
Western NC still needs our help. Thoughts and prayers aren’t going to cut it if we want Asheville and the surrounding locales to ever grow back into the bustling stretch she once was. The region relies heavily on tourism, and the impact of Hurricane Helene has already caused a 70% decline in visitor spending. Area retailers, bars, restaurants, venues and hotels need tourists to come stay and play to fill the gap. And what’s better than a gorgeous getaway with a positive impact?
Although we know and love the plethora of majestic Asheville-adjacent hikes (looking at you, open Black Balsam Knob, Max Patch and Graveyard Fields), our picks focus on supporting local businesses rather than sending you outside. Naturally, of course, we rec you make time to catch some mountain air. As a WNC native, I implore you to take a drive and take in my fave spots to sip, sup and play in the Land of the Sky.
DO
Courtesy of Downtown Books and News
Downtown Books and News Since 1988, this used bookstore and newsstand has been a mainstay for locals and a staple bucket list fixture for visitors. Feed your brain with every genre imaginable—from French fiction to zines and illustrated works—amid quirky decor and oodles of character. Wooden stools, a green bank safe and ghost sightings are just some of the historic leftovers from the shoe store, jewelry store and livestock auction the building formerly housed. In short, it’s a culture vulture’s haven. dbnbooks.com
Photo by Raleigh Magazine
The Orange Peel Asheville is the up-and-coming music city—and if you want to face the noise, this fruity music hall is the place to start. Named one of the best venues in the Southeast, the lovable-meets-sleazy locale is the perf size—large enough for big names to come through, but small enough you can arrive an hour after doors and grab a beer with ease. Artists and comedians alike are regularly slated to take the stage, with upcoming shows including Inhaler and Duncan Trussell. theorangepeel.net
Asheville Pinball Museum Retro fun found at the endearing neon-lit play palace cramped with ~80 games, including pinball and old arcade games like Frogger and Pac-Man. Don’t stress about finding quarters—for a flat fee, you’re able to try your hand at however many games you fancy for as long as you want. ashevillepinball.com
EAT
Photo by Raleigh Magazine
Old Europe Pastries Whenever anyone asks for Asheville recs, this posh-yet-homey bakery and coffee shopalways tops my list. Asheville’s longest-running cafe, the pastry menu has been perfected by founder Melinda Vetro after almost three decades—and, in turn, the taste and quality of these almost-too-pretty-to-eat treats shines. The chocolate éclair is the best one you’ll try in the continental U.S.—and don’t sleep on the cakes and tiramisu. oldeuropepastries.com
Photo by Carolyn Marie Photography
Jargon Akin to its name, this mod American restaurant is always evolving. Taking inspo from near and far, the unconstrained-by-borders menu features everything from NC trout with grit cakes to golden beet risotto and chicken leg confit. Meanwhile, the gold-trimmed-mirror-adorned walls of the small historic structure create a bright and elevated atmosphere to wine and dine. jargonrestaurant.com
Early Girl Eatery Tomato girl summer came early (!). AVL’s staple farm-to-table eatery is guided by the motto “More Than Made From Scratch”—and you can taste the dedication. Multigrain pancakes, sandwiches and salads rounded out with an array of mimosas grace the fresh-focused menu. And for a post-meal stroll, check out the walkable Wall Street, oft filled with pop-ups boasting the work of local makers and artisans. earlygirleatery.com
DRINK
Antidote Life’s antidote? Three stories of 20th century apothecary-style lounge space—think starry-tiled flooring and rustic wooden furniture illuminated with soft yellow lighting from chandeliers—and classic and signature cocktails, natch. Pick your poison from ops like a vesper martini, Manhattan and The Navigation (aka a twist on an aviation). antidote.bar
Photo courtesy of Double D’s Coffee & Desserts
Double D’s Coffee & Desserts More than just a pretty red bus—although we can’t deny it’s perfect for an Insta pic—this double-decker will double deck you out with the likes of coffee, smoothies, milkshakes and desserts. Once a bevvy and sweet treat is secured, level down to the patio to sip and snack with a view of lush plants and passersby. Pro-tip: The bus is cash only, so bring some bills. doubledscoffee.com
Wicked Weed Brewing When in Asheville, you drink IPAs—and the original home of Wicked Weed is just the spot to get your fill of the hoppy bev. The OG 15-barrel brewery doubles as a beer garden and bottle shop, complete with two pup-friendly outdoor patios (so bring Bark Obama along!), plus a full-fledged restaurant in case you get the munchies. Hoppy drinking! wickedweedbrewing.com
STAY
Photo by Colby Rabon
Wrong Way River Lodge & Cabins “It’s the wrong way…” Tap into sublime with an elevated glamping experience on the edge of the French Broad. Created by two rafting guides who felt Asheville’s unconventional outdoor personality wasn’t represented in lodging, the luxe lodges and A-frame cabins connect with your crunchier side while still boasting private bathrooms, AC and Wi-Fi—so after you get your outdoor fix, you can catch some Z’s in comfort. wrongwaycampground.com
Blind Tiger Less a hotel and more “the home of a well-connected friend” in the heart of the city, this unique-but-unpretentious inn blurs the lines between art and living with tile-adorned bedroom walls, avant-garde seating and bedside fireplaces. Not to mention the venues, local boutiques, bars and restaurants just steps away. larkhotels.com
The Radical This abandoned 1920s warehouse-turned-hotel has opened its doors once again after Helene demolished the River Arts District. Now on the path to revive the area, the “living art installation” treats visitors and locals alike to a lush lobby, marble and gold bathrooms, and—bringing the creative landscape of the artsy area to your bedside—graffiti-embellished walls. A rad escape, indeed. theradicalavl.com
