Michelin Unpacked: Did We Expect Too Much?

by Melissa Howsam | Dec 4, 2025 | December/January 2025, Eat

How the South stacked up

Michelin mania swept the South this fall as culinary heavyweights from seven states descended on Greenville, SC, for the Michelin Guide American South debut—garnering 228 distinctions across 44 cuisine types—with just 11 restaurants earning the coveted Star. 

Since, much has been made of the selects, with chefs, critics and diners alike dissecting every nod, snub and surprise. And, as with any awards season—from the Oscars to the election cycle—the aftermath chatter centers on who made it, who didn’t… and why NC’s lone star shines in Charlotte. 

Stars Aligned
When Michelin debuted its inaugural Michelin Guide Atlanta in fall 2023, the city—whose former standalone guide is now folded into the new regional edition—saw just five of its now eight Starred spots earn the shine, with four more added in ’24 and one removed this year (Staplehouse). 

Mississippi and Alabama were shut out of the Star convo entirely—leaving the 11 awarded divided among NC (one, for Charlotte’s Counter-), Louisiana (three), SC (four) and Tennessee (three). The sole two-Star honor went to New Orleans’ renowned Emeril’s. Michelin also dished a half-dozen coveted Green Stars for eco-friendly gastronomy—two of which landed in Charlotte and Asheville, solidifying NC as a serious contender in the Guide’s inaugural Southeast field.

NC ultimately snagged the most *2025* recognitions overall—with Atlanta earning no new Bib Gourmands and only seven new Recommendations this year. Stars aside, NC lit up the map with seven Bibs and 39 Recommendations, including 19 in the Triangle, 13 in Wake County and 11 in Raleigh alone. 

Looking Local
Given Raleigh’s shining debut—and the ensuing conversation around its Starless showing—it begs the question: Did we expect too much? 

It’s well-known fodder that Michelin is slow to dish out Stars in debut destinations—and a Guide is only as good as the year it represents. Michelin can (and often does) add or remove Recommendations annually with each new release, as we see with Atlanta. So it’s entirely possible that one of this year’s Recs—or even a new arrival—could rise to Star status.

But the bigger conversation locally has centered on the notion that “one of these things is not like the other.” Many argue Herons—one of only 79 Forbes five star restaurants in the world—got robbed of a Star, while The Pit’s Recommendation has sparked plenty of public backlash. The Warehouse District staple certainly holds a place in local lore and still packs in crowds, but many locals say they view it as more of a check-the-box classic coasting on tradition than a high-caliber contender—let alone a Michelin-worthy restaurant that dishes the kinds of consistent, impeccable fare seen across the rest of the category. 

Meanwhile, public outcry ran loud for those left off entirely—with Ajja and M Sushi racking up the most decries. As many of our readers and followers have pointed out: “How can Ajja be snubbed when The Pit makes the list?” And: “If The Pit is worthy,” they ask, “where is Longleaf Swine?”

Michelin Method
That answer likely boils down to the method behind the Michelin madness. It’s worth noting that both diners and restaurants can suggest spots for inspectors to consider. Those recommendations are passed directly to inspectors for review—and, as Michelin’s Carly Grieff tells RM, all of those restaurants are visited. 

And, despite many reports to the contrary, ambiance plays no role in a restaurant’s rating. Michelin’s designations are based solely on what’s on the plate. And while the specifics of the CIA-like top-secret process are famously held close to the chest, the standards themselves are well-defined.

As Grieff notes, “the Guide doesn’t reveal the specific or number of restaurants inspected, the destination assessment process or the inspectors’ methods of evaluating a destination.” Which only heightens the intrigue—and makes it worth revisiting exactly what Michelin is looking for. 

So what does it really take to earn (or lose) Michelin merit? The secrecy may run deep, but the standards are crystal clear. We break down how Michelin decides who to consider, how they’re judged and the factors that crown those Stars—and beyond.  

Who Gets Considered?
Restaurants can be submitted for consideration either by the public or by the restaurant itself.

From restaurants:
• Restaurant name and contact info
• Brief chef background
• Website or social link
• Weekly hours

From diners:
• Restaurant name
• City and country
• Feedback or recommendation

Stars, Bibs & Beyond
Michelin Stars honor the food quality only—not service, decor or atmosphere. Inspectors apply the same five criteria worldwide:

• Quality of ingredients
• Mastery of cooking techniques
• Harmony of flavors
• Personality of the cuisine
• Consistency across visits and the menu

Star Definitions
One Star – High-quality cooking, worth a stop
Two Stars – Excellent cooking, worth a detour
Three Stars – Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey

Bib Gourmand
Recognizes spots offering exceptional value for money—very good food at moderate prices. Most Bibs typically fall within the € and €€ range

Michelin defines price tiers as:

 € = On a budget
€€ = A moderate spend
€€€ = Special occasion
€€€€ = Spare no expense 

Local Spotlight

A baker’s dozen of local standouts just earned coveted spots in the inaugural Michelin Guide American South—cementing what we’ve long known: The Cap City’s culinary scene can hang with the best of them. From coastal-cool crudos to smoke-kissed ’cue, Raleigh’s chefs are plating proof that our flavor runs deep—and our shine’s only getting brighter.

Bib Gourmands

Mala Pata
A dream team of local pros powers this masa-mastered Latin spot—bold corn-driven flavor, laid-back polish and Raleigh’s newest must-book. @malapata.molino

Prime Barbecue
Beard–nom Christopher Prieto’s ~prime~ Knightdale smokehouse marries Texas swagger and Carolina pride—serving brisket worth the drive and a vibe that smokes the rest. @primebbq

Sam Jones BBQ
Clearly Q is having a moment—and Sam Jones is here for it, going hog wild with whole-hog ’cue that keeps Eastern NC’s smoky legacy alive. @samjonesbbq

Michelin Recommended

Brewery Bhavana
Part taproom, part dim sum temple, Bhavana remains pure Raleigh nirvana. @brewerybhavana

Brodeto
Beard–nom Scott Crawford’s Adriatic-inspired stunner is making waves with open-fire finesse and coastal flair. @brodetorestaurant

Crawford and Son
Mod American, mastered—Crawford’s Oakwood flagship still sets the bar with elevated comfort, effortless cool and seasonal finesse. @crawfordnson

Herons
Chef Steven Greene’s Forbes five-star stunner inside The Umstead transforms local harvests into high art—a serene, stunning take on Modern American. @heronsnc

Jolie
A love letter to Paris and to Raleigh, Crawford’s chic French bistro bottles pure Parisian flair via culinary precision, rooftop views and pure joie de vivre. @jolierestaurant

Poole’s
The spark that ignited Raleigh’s culinary fire, two-time Beard winner Ashley Christensen’s reimagined diner still reigns—serving Southern soul and that iconic mac. @poolesdiner

Stanbury
Still the city’s coolest fever dream, Stanbury keeps Raleigh under its spell with ever-changing, always electric and pure culinary chaos—in the best way. @stanburyraleigh

St. Roch
At RM’s 2025 Best Restaurant of the Year, Sunny Gerhart brings the bayou to Moore Square—slinging oysters, grit and pure Gulf-to-DTR glory. @strochraleigh

Tamasha
Chef Bhavin Chhatwani’s bold debut turns up the heat on Indian fine dining with fearless flavor and global flair—with dramatic design for days. @tamashanc

The Pit
A Warehouse District staple where whole-hog roots run deep—pit-smoked ’cue, elevated sides and unabashed Carolina spirit. @thepitbbq