Building Buzz

Building Buzz

Mala Pata hosts monthly pop-ups ahead of its summer opening—from brunch to prix fixe mezcal dinners to late-night burritos.

While Gateway Plaza’s highly anticipated Mala Pata won’t be open until the summer (stay tuned), the star-studded team is giving Raleighites a taste of what to expect via a residency at Centro with one or two monthly pop-ups. 

So far, the forthcoming Mexican-inspired resto has hosted one quickly soldout brunch in January, with the next one slated for Sunday, Feb. 25. And if it’s anything like the first (see: the ranchero shakshuka, breakfast torta and fried chicken biscuit with red-eye chorizo gravy that puts Bojangles to shame), you’re gonna wanna be there or be square. 

“Ultimately we want Mala Pata to be a neighborhood restaurant that people are able to eat at once or twice a week, versus being a place that people only go to on date night or for a special event,” maintains Davis. “We want to be tied into the neighborhood.”

Adding to the hype of this month’s brunch pop-up will be a collab menu with chef José Rios of The Fearrington House Restaurant, along with drinks from industry vet Courtney Whitley. Co-owner Marshall Davis, who is opening Mala Pata alongside Angela Salamanca (of Ex-Voto, Centro and Gallo Pelón fame), and Eric Montagne and Zack Gragg of Locals Seafood, says the pop-ups are a way for them to work with each other and with potential new team members. 

“We’re all friends outside of work, but we don’t work together often,” he says. “These pop-ups are a way for the five of us to learn what it’s like to be in the kitchen with each other. … It feels good to have five individuals who are super-excited about cooking and open to trying anything.”

Naturally, the pop-ups also serve as a platform for R&D’ing the menu, which Davis says is still being finalized, but will ultimately feature several Oaxacan influences. Their team recently took a trip to the Mexican city to take cooking classes from a local chef to learn about the products and flavors of the cuisines—plus a distillery tour to learn about mezcal production, which will come in handy with Mala Pata’s sister bar Peyote. 

“[Angela and I] take a trip to Oaxaca every time we’re starting something new,” says Davis of the pair’s 12-year history. The trip was a way for the team to “taste some of those things we don’t typically have access to up here, so we can at least retain what the smells, acids and salts are, and have a reference point when we’re recreating things here.” And with some of the food products and mezcal they brought back, they also plan to host an exclusive prix fixe dinner soon (!).

Along with the Centro residency, Mala Pata also plans to host burrito/taco pop-ups on Friday/Saturday nights at area bars like Natural Science, Standard Beer + Food and Person Street Bar as a way for them to get feedback from the community. “Ultimately we want Mala Pata to be a neighborhood restaurant that people are able to eat at once or twice a week, versus being a place that people only go to on date night or for a special event,” maintains Davis. “We want to be tied into the neighborhood.” And, clearly, Raleighites are accepting them with open arms—and satisfied bellies. 

Rant or Rave?

Rant or Rave?

Mezcal—worth all the rage?

Kenny Chesney said you and tequila make me crazy—run like poison in my blood. But swap in mezcal for me (hear me out). ICYMI mezcal is (not so) quietly becoming the top-selling spirit in the U.S.—as imbibers will spend more $ on the agave spirit (and its sister tequila) than whiskey this year, and, by 2023, the agave category is expected to surpass vodka as best-seller at a cool $13.3 billion. 

So you’re expecting a rave? Think again. But, let me preface this by saying ranting about mezcal as an unconvinced fan is about as intimidating as writing about Kratom or Roe v. Wade. People are passionate about their potions—and this one is arguably divisive. Not because it isn’t good or doesn’t deserve all the hoopla. Bacon and pumpkin irrefutably have more than enough flavor to back the fandom. 

The mania is not the problem—it’s the ubiquity of a market trying to feed the frenzy… often to the point that it can jump the shark (hey, pumpkin everything!). It’s everywhere and it’s not always in the right hands—read: misuse, low quality options, etc. Look, I’ve loved pumpkin since I was a little girl whose grandma made a famous pumpkin chiffon, and I’ve likewise hated bacon the same length of time (don’t @ me). The only benefit to the popularity of either was now I didn’t have to wait for Thanksgiving chiffon to get my pumpkin fix.

Mezcal is the new pumpkin. Socials are full of “reel” obsessions; the smoky spirit is making rounds (had to) on the national media circuit; and lovers are likely over the moon at the spirit’s now omnipresence on menus—from dives to high-end cocktail bars (and here I can’t get a vodka drink on a menu to save myself—but I digress). Honestly, I blame George Clooney for the cult status (his Casamigos brand was one of the top performing from 2016–21)… but with a face like that as your poster child you can hardly blame a soul. 

As much as I want to love the trendy tipple, lately, there’s a (perceived) snobbery to it. A few years ago, as it emerged, a bartender would kindly sub the smoky spirit for tequila. Now, the request is met with a hard no. It’ll ruin the drink, they’ll tell you. While infuriating at first, that attitude was my aha moment. Maybe they’re right. As a former bartender, I have to admit craft cocktails devised with purpose are intended that way. And it’s only at top-notch bars where cocktailiers are doubling down on their mezcal mixology. They implement the mezcal purposefully—not as some thoughtless add to a random cocktail because trends. It has a time and place—like in mezcal maven Lily Ballance’s Willco or brand-new mezcaleria (see p. 48) or at Gallo—or in Oaxaca, Mexico, for that matter. And I believe it has a true audience with a primed palate—and I plan to learn to love it. Or at least appreciate it (s/o to Lily for the education).