The restaurant industry as a whole needs big structural change; in Raleigh, the conversations are happening and the work is getting started.
Early last month, Sara Dye, who once managed the bookstore located within Brewery Bhavana, shared a post about her former employer on her public Instagram page.
What followed was as if a snow globe containing Raleigh’s cherished downtown brewery and sister restaurant, Bida Manda, was shaken up until all of its pieces came loose. The snowflakes swirled and then settled. But the image of a seemingly socially conscious, nationally recognized company lauded for its food and beer, its alluring aesthetic, touching origin story and workforce of some 200 “bright” and “shining lights,” as employees were referred to in company social media posts, lies broken in pieces.
Dye’s June 6 post detailing a botched managerial response to her account of being groped by a drunk co-worker spurred a flurry of harassment and abuse allegations in and outside the workplace from current and former employees. These allegations implicated people in charge and included accounts of racist bullying, inappropriate comments and encounters, emotional manipulation and mishandled management of interpersonal conflicts.
To outsiders, the allegations are shocking but to many entrenched in Raleigh’s bar and restaurant scene, they were something of an open secret. Worse, they’re also likely not personally unfamiliar. Commonly cited statistics from a survey of more than 600 restaurant workers from the nonprofit Restaurant Opportunities Center United put the number of workers who experience sexual violence on the job at 60 percent; some 80 percent reported experiencing sexual harassment from co-workers and 66 percent said they experienced sexual harassment from management. Two out of every five federal sexual harassment complaints arise from the food and beverage industry.
“There was room for so much error,” says Dye in response to a question about systems in place at Brewery Bhavana that could have prevented, or effectively addressed, the issues that plagued the company. “In a place like that, and I assume it is similar in most restaurants because of all the interpersonal relationships, whether friendships or romantic … it makes it so difficult to untangle situations, to handle situations, when there should be a clear and direct course of action and there is not.”
The upheaval at Bhavana came on top of an already tough few months for the restaurant industry locally and nationally. Beginning in March, when the state closed restaurant dining rooms due to the coronavirus outbreak, thousands of hourly workers suddenly found themselves without jobs. Even as restaurants began reopening to diners again, many employees feared returning to work, getting sick and infecting compromised family members or not being able to take sick leave. Many don’t have health insurance.
Max Trujillo
“There’s definitely a lot going on to reveal a poorly structured food and beverage industry,” says Max Trujillo, an industry veteran and co-host of the NC Food and Beverage podcast. Coronavirus shone a light on these issues, but the good news is, in Raleigh at least, there are businesses working to address some of the structural problems and inequities.
Last month, the restaurant group that owns Cary’s kō•än and so•ca in Cameron Village, renamed hospitality•NOW, reopened to diners. The group donated all of its Juneteenth opening day proceeds to the NAACP and Black Lives Matter Bailfund campaign. For all of its workers, the company instituted a minimum $15-per hour wage and guaranteed paid sick leave. It will soon offer health insurance. A new, 10 percent sustainable hospitality charge helps cover costs. Tips, which are still encouraged, will be redistributed among front- and back-of-house staff.
“The coronavirus maybe exposed a bunch of weakness and we feel that a lot of these issues and crises we are seeing now are connected,” says company owner Sean Degnan. “It forced us to stop and look in the mirror for a second.”
Degnan says he is confident the new pay structure will work for his restaurants, noting that hospitality•NOW joins “a club of places that are doing this, like all over Europe, and in better, higher-end restaurants here that plan on being around a long time.”
Sean Degnan
In Raleigh’s Gateway Plaza, Union Special—a bakery and cafe that has paid its hourly workers a minimum of $15 since it opened last summer—is proof that, while there are plenty of naysayers within the food and beverage industry, a living wage model for restaurants can work. In fact, owner Andrew Ullom says, it’s a model he truly believes can be made to work in any restaurant.
“There are ways restaurants can operate that just need to be implemented so they can work more efficiently,” says Ullom. Paying workers a fair wage, he says, makes them more likely to stick around for the long haul, reducing turnover and the time and expenses involved in constantly hiring and training new staff.
“Maybe the future of restaurant dining will change, and I hope it does, because it creates disparities,” says Ullom. “It pays to pay people an extra dollar or two so that they can work one job, be able to sleep at night and you can have a small business that works for the community you serve. The one we serve includes the people who show up every day to work in hourly positions.”
David Meeker, co-owner of Trophy Brewing and the bottle shop State of Beer, says his company plans to increase the minimum wage for its hourly workers (with the exception of tipped servers) too, from $11 to $13 an hour, and will implement a sick leave policy as soon as the businesses reopen to the public.
David Meeker
“We realized who is most essential right now and that’s our dishwasher, generally the lowest paid person in our restaurants,” Meeker says. “We’re interested in moving away from a tips [system], where everyone gets paid more per hour. We haven’t seen a system that works yet, but think there might be one that comes out of this, so we’re going to pay attention. And if there’s something that works, we’re going to take a serious look at it.”
Of course, as what happened at Brewery Bhavana has shown, it’s not just low pay and no benefits or protections that leave restaurant industry workers vulnerable and open to exploitation. Restaurants, bars and small businesses in general need systems in place to ensure their workers are safe from harassment, abuse and other misconduct on the job, but for small businesses with limited means, that’s easier said than done. There’s also not a consensus on what these measures should look like.
Dye says looking back at the employee handbook from Brewery Bhavana, there were instructions on what to do when problems arose but no clear guidance on how such problems would be addressed beyond talking it over with the “president” of the company, Van Nolintha, who was also a co-owner, manager and the source of at least some of the issues within the business. There were attempts at designating a human resources consultant, both third party and from within the company, Dye says, but that didn’t prove to be a workable solution either.
“If someone goes to [the HR specialist] with a complaint, or a conflict or in the event that something happened, if they’re a third party and not employed by the company, then all they will do is take the issue to the owner,” Dye says. “So what is really resulting there?”
One thing restaurant workers and owners seem to agree on is that transparency and communication are key to preventing abuse on the job, as well as to addressing issues as they arise. And, if your voice isn’t being heard at work, workers shouldn’t be afraid to take their grievances public, as Dye did.
“Speak up,” says Trujillo. “We have our individual voices, on social media, in publications, on podcasts, friends we can talk to. So many times the ones harassed feel ashamed, like it’s their fault when it is clearly not. Clear communication, transparency … what’s happening [within a business] needs to be out there at all times.”
Union Special’s Ullom says he takes this approach at his business from the very beginning.
“In our interview process we make a point to say specifically, ‘If you do something to make someone else uncomfortable, you are fired immediately,’” he says. “There is zero tolerance for that and the fact that we talk about it immediately helps.”
Andrew Ullom
Ullom says he has only had to fire two employees. He had a conversation with his entire staff afterwards to address the reasons why. They’re the kinds of conversations, he says, that the restaurant industry needs to be having on a larger scale, especially now, especially here in Raleigh.
“We need to keep this conversation open and not let sexual assault go by the wayside, not let racial inequity go by the wayside,” Ullom says. “This has brought up hard memories and unless we deal with this now, nothing gets better. We’re social distancing, but this is a great time to talk about it, to start understanding there are a lot of people going through this, from a lot of different backgrounds. It’s time to pay attention.”
Dye, whose Instagram words caused some of the first cracks in a carefully cultivated façade, has remained a part of the dialogue. She left Brewery Bhavana at the end of 2018 but says she remains close to former co-workers.
“It’s so tough,” she says. “I look back often and wonder if things could have played out differently. Had there been a system in place, what would have happened? Would I still work there, would I not? I’ve had so many conversations since this all came to light about what bars and restaurants can do better. About how they can provide safe spaces for their employees.”
In the wake of the coronavirus pandemic, everyone’s asking the same question: “When will things go back to the way they were?”
Raleigh, and the world, is in a state of uncertainty. With increased testing, the number of confirmed coronavirus cases is increasing daily but the rate at which cases are increasing is going down. Just last month, we saw the number of recovered patients in the state reach 10,000.
Given these benchmarks, Gov. Roy Cooper and North Carolina health secretary Mandy Cohen have rolled out plans for reopening businesses to occur in three phases. But things won’t look the same as they did before COVID-19; in fact, they might never be the same.
The virus, and the shutdowns that happened in response, have forced business owners to reevaluate their entire business models or shut their doors for good. Office-based companies are debating whether to switch to teleworking permanently, schools are still unsure if they can resume in-person instruction in the fall and there’s a chance a second wave of the virus could send us all back home again.
Raleigh Magazine spoke with local restauranteurs and retailers, church and university leaders, salon and spa owners, museum administrators and many others about what their plans for reopening are—and how things will look for them once life gets back to “normal.”
Diving In to Dining In
“There’s never going to be a time where people don’t want to go out to eat,” says Andrew Ullom, owner of Union Special Bread in Raleigh’s Gateway Plaza. But whether it’s safe to start going back out to eat right now is still up in the air. In phase two of Cooper’s reopening plan, Raleigh’s 1,300-plus restaurants and bars can reopen at limited capacity—if, that is, they haven’t already shut down for good.
Many local restaurant owners are cautious about reopening their dining rooms, even after the governor gives them the go-ahead. Nunzio Scordo, owner of Driftwood in Lafayette Village, says he’ll likely wait to open a week or two after restaurants get the green light. “I don’t want to be there on the forefront of this because I want to see what’s working and what’s not working first,” Scordo says.
The fear of a second wave of the virus, especially with people coming into contact with each other again, puts even more stress on business owners. Restaurant owners especially have a host of additional concerns around reopening their dining rooms. Reopening at limited capacity may not even make sense for them as most rely on having a full house as often as possible to make their sales margins work.
Union Special could only serve about a dozen patrons at a time at 25 percent capacity so Ullom says he plans to expand outdoor seating and continue takeout and delivery. He says he personally doesn’t anticipate allowing anyone into the restaurant for the rest of the year. Ullom says he feels lucky Union’s takeout program is going well and that he’s doing the amount of business it takes to keep afloat. “Nobody’s ever built for a pandemic but we’re built to weather this sort of thing because we make bread,” he says. “Given the circumstances, we’re going to come out of this stronger than when we went in, but we’re one of a handful of people that can say that.”
For Lady Luck, which opened just three days before the state shut down, not reopening is not an option, even if the Glenwood South bar and restaurant can only operate at a limited capacity. Lady Luck’s owners say they are fortunate to have a large space that would allow about 60 customers in their dining room at 50 percent capacity. And, though Lady Luck has stayed busy with takeout and delivery, their owners, like many other local restaurant and bar owners, say they have lost a lot of money not being able to serve customers in their bar and dining room. “We’re only making about five percent of what we would be making if we were open,” says partner and executive chef Kevin Ruiz.
Whether or not local restaurants and bars decide to reopen as soon as they’re allowed, they’ll have to take basic steps in order to keep their staff and customers safe, adding yet another layer to our new version of “normal.” Staff will have to undertake extensive, regular cleaning and sanitizing measures, tables will have to be spaced six feet apart, kitchen workers will have to wear gloves and masks and reserving seats at the bar may become the new normal.
Lynn Minges, president and CEO of the North Carolina Restaurant and Lodging Association (NCRLA), says restaurants will most likely adopt single-use menus, disposable silverware and condiments and new technology that allows for contact-free transactions. She also expects to see customers waiting in cars for a table (rather than in a restaurant’s lobby or waiting area) where they’ll get a text when their table is ready. Even as restaurants gradually open their dining rooms, we can expect takeout and delivery to continue for many establishments.
There are other questions regarding safety that are unclear. Will we see requirements for plexiglass dividers between tables? Will servers and other front of house employees have to wear masks? Sara Abernethy, co-owner of Wye Hill, says her servers will most likely be wearing masks once they reopen. “When you think about hospitality, it’s pretty disarming,” she says. “But if it helps guests and servers feel safe, we want to encourage that.”
Shopping with Sanitation
Retailers, which were permitted to open in phase one, are grappling with having to take the same kinds of safety measures and precautions.
Apart from sanitizing surfaces thoroughly and regularly, local store owners also have to carefully sanitize their inventory as shoppers often will pull products down from shelves to look them over or, in the case of clothes shopping, take them off the racks to try them on. So as not to have multiple customers handling the same discarded items, store owners are introducing baskets around their stores and in dressing rooms where customers can place merchandise they handled but didn’t buy for staff to then sterilize.
At C.T. Weekends, owner Dennis Mayfield says clothes tried on but not bought will be steamed and stored in the back of the shop for at least 24 hours while fitting rooms will be sanitized after each use.
C.T. Weekends | Photo by RDP3 Photography
DECO owner Pam Blondin and Quail Ridge Books general manager Jason Jefferies say they will place baskets throughout their stores for customers to leave handled products which store workers will then thoroughly clean before returning to shelves.
Also gone are the days where we can lazily stroll into stores or boutiques while we’re out and about. Due to the state’s capacity cap on non-essential businesses and retail stores through phases one and two, store owners must get creative about how they let in customers. For many, this means taking appointments. Jefferies is planning on breaking down Quail Ridge’s store hours into one-hour slots that only a few people can reserve at a time, a procedure he had already implemented before the store closed. He also had customers check in with an employee at the front and wash their hands immediately before browsing, which he’ll continue. Although as a bookstore Quail Ridge is considered an essential business, Jefferies chose to close the store for his employees’ and customers’ safety and says he doesn’t have a set reopening date yet. “I don’t think it makes sense for us to open up right now,” he says. “My philosophy is that just because someone tells you you can do something doesn’t mean you should.”
Sanitation Station at Bailey’s | Photo by RDP3 Photography
Mayfield, on the other hand, opened C.T. Weekends as soon as he was allowed. He says he feels he took all the necessary steps to make sure his customers felt comfortable coming into the store, including sanitizing the entire space, requiring clients and staff to observe social distancing rules, providing hand sanitizer, masks and gloves for customers to use and keeping the dressing rooms clean. “We’re trying to be as responsive as we can,” Mayfield says. “And we’re learning along the way. We want people to feel secure and enjoy the moment.” Mayfield says he will also continue to accommodate shoppers who don’t feel comfortable going into the store with curbside pickup.
DECO owner Blondin says she realizes shopping isn’t exactly essential during this time, but she, like many other store owners, is eager to get things back to as normal as they can be, now. “The world has shifted,” Blondin says. “We just have to be mindful and willing to do the hard thing, and if things start backsliding, then we’ll close up for a couple weeks. It’s a tough stroll.”
Up Close And Personal
The middle of an international health pandemic may not be the best time to go shopping or get botox, a haircut or a manicure, but retail therapy and personal care are certainly activities people have been looking forward to doing once things start getting back to normal again. After all we’ve had to endure from the pandemic so far, treating ourselves to a nice haircut or massage doesn’t sound too shabby.
“I think everyone in the world can use a massage right now,” says Jenny Abhau, owner of White Dahlia, a massage and wellness spa.
Blue Water Spa co-owner Kile Law says she already had customers scheduling appointments before the spa officially reopened on May 11 (as a medical spa, Blue Water was allowed to reopen before other person-to-person oriented businesses). “People are reevaluating the way they spend their time and money and investing more in themselves,” Law says.
In anticipation of opening their doors, Blue Water, like many other local personal care service providers, has had to undertake intense cleaning procedures to ensure customers felt safe upon returning. Blue Water hired a facility disinfection manager and the spa is cleaned professionally every night, its linens professionally laundered each day. Additionally, Law says Blue Water invested in a powerful disinfectant originally used to treat the SARS virus that helps disinfect tricky spots like behind picture frames and under furniture.
Even before COVID, Law says, Blue Water had a reputation for being well sterilized. The facility doesn’t have carpeting in any of its rooms and all of the furniture is easily wiped down and sanitized. “We’re very mindful of our environment,” Law says. “Being a medical facility, we’re concerned about health and wellness overall.” Law says Blue Water will now require its employees and clients to wear masks. Additionally, clients will have to go through background checks and have their temperatures taken before they can come in. “It’s excessive, but important, and makes people comfortable,” Law says.
White Dahlia’s Abhau is taking similar precautions in anticipation of reopening in phase two. She bought an ozone generator, which she says is proven to kill SARS and coronavirus, to run every night in the store. Because White Dahlia is inspected by massage boards and must follow certain protocols regularly, Abhau says the spa was held to a high cleanliness standard before, but will now disinfect even more frequently and instruct employees to wear masks and/or gloves if the state requires. “We want our clients and employees to feel 100 percent comfortable,” Abhau says. Once customers return, Abhau says they will need to sign a release form to confirm that they’re healthy and haven’t been traveling.
Queue outside Great Outdoor Provision Co. | Photo by RDP3 Photography
Chantale Persinger, owner of Closets by Design in Raleigh, has also asked her customers to answer a survey about their health and travel while the home office and closet design-installation service has remained open and doing business throughout the shutdown. To ensure employees are safe to work, they have their temperature taken daily. Once inside the customer’s home, Persinger’s team dons face masks and gloves, covers the floors and puts blue tape down to mark six foot parameters. “The longer this [virus] goes on, the longer this is becoming the new normal,” Persigner says of the strict new precautions.
The Six-Foot Office
Those of us working from home over the past few weeks have gotten used to taking meetings over Zoom and calling co-workers rather than popping our heads into one another’s offices. The change has been comfortable for some and disorienting for others but we’ve all had to adapt.
HQ Raleigh | Photo by RDP3 Photography
Under the state’s phase two plan, employees started returning to their offices—and they’ve found a lot to be different.
Workplace collaboration, a big trend in office life with co-working spaces and open floor plans, has become a concern for employers. “A lot of institutions need to be together and have that connection with each other,” says Jessica Bossiere, a senior interior designer at HH Architecture. “Collaboration in one space is important to them. It will be interesting to see how places like that change.” Bossiere maintains that virtual collaboration should and will continue for a while, whether that’s with coworkers in the same building but in different offices or allowing some coworkers in the office and some to work from home.
Kimarie Ankenbrand, the Raleigh/Durham lead and managing director at commercial real estate agency JLL, has come up with three ways to get employees re-acquainted with going into work: reactivate space, respect health and wellness and revitalize workspace and property into a space that safely accommodates employees while maintaining social distancing.
For social distancing purposes, Ankenbrand proposes using one-way hallways—similar to what we’ve been seeing in grocery stores—and seating that’s spread six feet apart. She says she expects many of these behaviors will have to be reinforced. For instance, if a company conference room has eight chairs but managers only want two people sitting in the room at a time, they should take the remaining six chairs out of the room. At least for now, we can no longer anticipate large conference meetings, water cooler chats or company-wide events or gatherings.
Elevators and bathrooms will also be hard to navigate, as they’re both spaces that accommodate multiple people throughout the day, but there are cheap, easy ways to address shared spaces and surfaces. In China, elevator users can press buttons with disposable toothpicks, a smart method the U.S. could easily replicate in the short term. As for bathrooms, Ankenbrand proposes foot pulls on doors and automatic faucets.
An elevator in China with a disposable toothpick method for pressing the buttons.
Even getting through to your office from the lobby will change, according to Bossiere. She says while the lobby used to be a nice space to welcome guests, it will transform into an intake area where employees have their temperatures taken, clean their hands with sanitizer or wash their hands before accessing the rest of the building.
Slowly introducing employees back into the workplace will help them comply with all of these measures, as will having employees come in at staggered hours.
Obviously, every office space will approach the transition back to work differently depending on their income, culture, size and what’s important to the employees and employers. Some companies might be able to afford a complete office redesign while others cannot and may therefore ask some employees stay home for longer. “There’s a sense of commitment and employers don’t want to take a risk, making sure they’re not the reason for an outbreak,” Bossiere says.
Nevertheless, the transition will be a gradual one, especially with so much unknown during this time and things continuing to change every day. “We have to wait until we get to a point where people feel comfortable,” says Bossiere. “To design thoughtful spaces for the future takes time. Unfortunately, we can’t design something overnight.”
Going To School In A Pandemic
The past few weeks have proven that attending school during a pandemic is no easy feat. Graduations were canceled, online final exams were proctored, grading systems were changed and the experience of going to class and seeing friends vanished. But, as of press time, Wake County Public Schools, Campbell University and all UNC system campuses were operating under the expectation of reopening in the fall.
At Campbell, law students are still unsure if they’ll be able to take the bar exam this July. “Thousands of people take this important test,” says J. Rich Leonard, the dean of Campbell Law. “[The exam has] never been online and I don’t know if it could be.” If the test does happen, Leonard says he hopes to hold graduation a few days after.
Although school officials say they’re hopeful things will be up and running again by fall, the school-going experience will be different for students of all ages. Wake County Public Schools superintendent Cathy Moore says the school system may have to blend remote learning with traditional schooling, depending on what the coronavirus situation looks like come August—traditional calendar schools are expected to begin August 17.
At Campbell, Leonard says he plans to create smaller class sizes with more sections to socially distance students in class if needed. Campbell’s campus, Leonard says, has plenty of classrooms to accommodate safe social distancing. With the first year of law school being the most critical, the school would emphasize having new students in the classroom while allocating upper level classes online.
Leonard says his staff and students have handled the bleakness of the virus situation well. “We train these students here as lawyers to be resilient, to change their positions as facts change,” Leonard says. “I’ve been impressed with the skill my faculty and staff have adapted to this new normal, and with good humor.”
Limited Gatherings
Along with canceled graduations and final exams, concerts, festivals, museum exhibits and other time-honored gatherings and events, too, have been axed. Signature Raleigh events, including Dreamville, Thrive NC, Brewgaloo and SPARKcon, all have been either postponed until fall or moved to next year.
These events bring thousands of tourists to Raleigh and are major contributors to the local economy. Without them, the City of Oaks is already feeling repercussions. It’s unclear whether Brewgaloo will happen in August and Dreamville, which had been rescheduled, was recently canceled. While performing artists still have shows scheduled through the summer, many will mostly likely have to postpone or cancel them as well.
Cooper’s stay at home order also ruled out going to church, meaning places of worship have had to hold their services virtually. Jeff Roberts, the senior pastor at Raleigh’s Trinity Baptist Church, has been holding a virtual worship every Sunday morning, along with Zoom classes throughout the week. He says he has been working for months on a plan to get members safely back into the building in phase two and he is surveying his congregation to see how many members will be willing to come back right away in order to determine how many services the church will need to hold. Roberts says he expects to hold two services every Sunday in two different buildings on the church’s campus, with congregants spread out six feet apart on pews.
Obviously these precautions will be easier for larger churches to accommodate, while smaller churches may have to wait until phase three to start welcoming members of their congregations again.
Roberts and his team developed a self screening questionnaire for members asking if they’ve been exposed to coronavirus or had symptoms and Roberts says he will require congregants to wear masks. “We, more than anybody else, should be a place where we put others first,” he says.
Along with churches and entertainment venues, Raleigh’s state of the art museums have all been closed since March, too, but have found ways to engage visitors online. The North Carolina Museum of Art was allowed to keep its outdoor park open and Raleighites flocked there to enjoy walks, picnics and other outdoor activities. Once it is allowed to reopen, Kat Harding, NCMA’s public relations and social media manager, says the museum will have heightened health and safety procedures. New visitor experience guidelines will greatly alter the visitation experience. Frequent deep cleanings of high-touch areas such as doors and restrooms will be scheduled; free, timed tickets to the museum collection and a one-way flow of gallery viewing with social distancing cues on the floor will have to be installed and staff members will be required to wear gloves and cloth face masks, Harding says.
All the NCMA’s summer concerts, performances, movie nights and other festivities have been cancelled through June but the museum will continue to offer virtual content including documentary screenings, live drawing workshops and artist interviews.
It’s clear now that life in Raleigh won’t be returning to anything resembling our perception of what’s normal anytime soon. Along with all the closings and cancellations, the pandemic has changed the way we behave. We have to stay six feet apart from each other with no touching, no hugging. Masks have become standard outside of our homes and hand sanitizer rules the day. Experts say we can expect these behaviors and precautions to be with us for at least a year or even until we’ve developed a vaccine.
You, like us, likely can’t wait to get out and enjoy the city again, meet up with friends for a drink, go on a date at a restaurant or peruse a museum on a Saturday afternoon. But it will take time, patience and support from the entire population for Raleigh to get there.
“It’s scary, but there’s certainly light at the end of the tunnel,” says Ullom of Union Special Bread. “It’s just a really big-ass tunnel.” A big-ass tunnel we’re all navigating together.
Grilling season is upon us. Fire it up and kick it at home for National Hamburger Day on May 27 with these burger recipes from chefs at some our favorite local restaurants. Don’t feel like cooking yourself? We don’t blame you for taking yourself out on hot burger date. Hey, you deserve it!
8 oz. burger 2 oz. Sriracha ketchup 2 oz. Jack cheese 1 oz. pickled red onions 6 slices raw jalapeños 2 oz. CowBar Hot sauce on top and bottom bun
CowBar Hot Sauce (Raged Bull) 80 habaneros 1 gallon white vinegar 4 onions 32 oz. sugar
Place all the ingredients into a stock pot and bring to a boil.
Once the mixture has boiled, turn down the heat to low/medium and allow it to simmer for 45 minutes.
While still hot, ladle 32 oz. at a time into a Vita-Mix and blend until smooth and the right consistency. Continue until all of the mixture is done; should take about 6 turns.
Once finished, put it into a 6-quart container and ice bath it, stirring every 20 minutes to avoid separation and to help the cooling process. Set a timer for each stir.
Jalapeño Popper Showstopper
The Cowfish Sushi Burger Bar 4208 Six Forks Road, Ste. 100 thecowfish.com
1 brioche roll, or roll of your choice ½ oz. butter 1 ½ oz. red leaf lettuce 1 slice fresh tomato ½ oz. sliced 1/8” jalapeño pepper, 4-5 slices ½ oz. jalapeño citrus sauce 8 oz. ground beef 2 oz. jalapeño cream cheese 2 slices jalapeño bacon ½ oz. fried jalapeño peppers (4 -5 slices)
Butter the brioche roll and toast it.
Cook the burger patty to desired temperature.
Place the lettuce, tomato and sliced jalapeños on the bottom bun. Drizzle the jalapeño citrus sauce on lettuce and tomato. Place 2 oz. jalapeño cream cheese on the cooked burger patty. Place fried jalapeño peppers and jalapeño bacon on top.
6 oz. hand patted Sterling Silver Choice beef 2 slices jalapeño salt bacon 1 slice pepper Jack cheese 1 fried egg ¼ oz. salsa verde
Salsa Verde 12 roasted tomatillos 1 medium sized chopped white onion 2-3 roasted jalapeños, depending on your palate ½ clove chopped garlic salt to taste ½ cup chopped cilantro ½ cup fresh lime juice
Blend everything except the tomatillos and jalapeños in a food processor. Roast the tomatillos and jalapeños in an oven, or even better, on an open flame until soft. Add them to the mix and blend. Allow mixture to cool and refrigerate overnight. The salsa will become thicker and more flavorful the next day, after refrigeration.
Cook burger to your liking.
Add bacon, cheese, fried egg and salsa verde to your burger and bun.
Onion Marmalade 1 Tbsp. canola oil 3 medium red onions, julienned 10 oz. port wine ½ tsp. salt ¼ tsp. black pepper ¼ cup red wine vinegar ½ cup sugar
Add the oil to a large sauté pan and sweat the onions over medium heat for about 4-5 minutes. Add the port wine, increase the heat to medium and cook the wine until it is reduced by half.
Add the remaining ingredients and reduce the heat back to low. Slowly cook the onions, stirring frequently until the liquid evaporates and the onions are thick and syrupy. Remove the marmalade from the pan and refrigerate until cool.
Burger 1 ½ lb. chuck ½ lb. Mandolin bacon salt and pepper brioche bun Danish blue cheese cooked bacon strips whole grain mustard
Grind the meat through a medium die grinder. Mix together in a bowl by hand and form 6 patties. Season with salt and pepper.
Grill over charcoal or wood until cooked to desired temperature.
Toast buns over grill.
Assemble burgers with whole grain mustard, onion marmalade, bacon and blue cheese.
(Makes 12-15 patties. Freeze any uncooked patties.)
2 lbs. frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained 1/3 lb. cream cheese 1 cup mayonnaise 1 cup ground parmesan 1 cup panko breadcrumbs 1 large Tbsp. Dijon mustard ½ large white onion, minced and drained 1 Tbsp. granulated garlic salt and pepper to taste
Mix well and form into patties. Cook on flat griddle, cast iron or nonstick pan in butter or your favorite oil. Top with whatever you like.
The Baconmaster
GOV’T CHEESEBURGER* 160 East Cedar St., Ste. 100, Cary postmastercary.com *temporary burger shop from the fine folk at Postmaster(now closed)
The Baconmaster is our homage to the Wendy’s Baconator. Each burger consists of the following: Union Special seeded bun Tomato aioli Bacon Pickled green tomatoes 2 Brasstown beef patties (3 oz.) Gov’t cheese
Tomato Aioli 2 egg yolks 1 ½ tsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 cup canola oil 2 Tbsp. H2O 1 tsp. black pepper 1 pinch MSG ½ tsp. salt
Put your yolks, mustard and tomato paste into a food processor. Slowly drizzle in the canola oil to form a proper emulsion. Slowly add your water to thin out the super thick aioli. Season with your black pepper, MSG and salt. Voila, you’ve made some delicious mayonnaise.
Shortcut: if you don’t want to do any of this, mix 2 Tbsp. tomato paste with 2 cups Duke’s mayonnaise.
Pickled Green Tomatoes This can and should be done ahead of time. 1 lb. green tomatoes, sliced ½” thick 4 oz. white distilled vinegar 4 oz. apple cider vinegar 4 oz. H2O ¼ cup sugar ¼ cup salt ½ tsp. celery seed ½ tsp. mustard seed ½ tsp. crushed red pepper ½ tsp. black pepper 1 pack fresh dill
Core and slice your green tomatoes, put in a container with your fresh dill.
Put all liquids, sugar and spices in a pot on high heat. Cook until all sugar and salt dissolves. Pour over green tomatoes and dill. Let sit at least overnight.
Shortcut: if you don’t wanna do any of that, buy them from the store.
Bacon Buy it. Cook it to desired doneness.
Gov’t Cheese Full disclosure: this is a huge pain in the a** but we do it for the love of burgers. 1 lb. sharp cheddar cheese; we recommend Tillamook 1 Tbsp. sodium citrate ²⁄₃ cup H2O
Shred your pound of cheddar cheese. Heat your water and sodium citrate over medium-low heat until dissolved. Add your cheese to the mixture. Stir until smooth and homogenous. Pour into a bowl and chill. Once the cheese has fully set, you can scoop it and squish it with a tortilla press. Now you have your own “American” cheese.
Shortcut: this is a lot and sodium citrate is hard to find. Buy Kraft singles, it’s easier. You can find sodium citrate at modernistpantry.com.
Burger Patty Set a well-seasoned cast iron pan to medium-high heat. Let it get hot.
Have your 3 oz. beef patties in a ball, ready to rock. Add a small amount of canola to the pan. Place your patties in the pan and smash the hell out of them. Like, super flat. Cook them until the fat begins to bubble up through the holes and there’s a good amount of browning, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook for another minute. Put a slice of cheese on each patty and let melt a touch. Remove from heat.
For the Build Toast your buns in a clean cast iron with some full fat butter.
Once bun is toasted, put a good amount of aioli on both sides of the bun. Place your bacon (4-6 slices) on the bottom bun. Next, add two slices of pickled green tomatoes on top of the bacon. Add your patties with cheese and close your burger.
Burger We use fresh, house-ground Certified Angus Beef for the burgers but feel free to prepare to your liking.
Chili 1 yellow onion, minced 2 garlic cloves, grated 1 lb. ground beef ¼ cup mustard 3 Tbsp. chili powder ¼ cup brown sugar ¼ can tomato paste salt and pepper to taste
Sauté minced onions and grated garlic.
Add ground beef and start to brown. Add mustard, chili powder, brown sugar and tomato. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Slaw 1 head Napa cabbage ½ cup white onion 1 rib of celery ¼ cup mayonnaise 3 Tbsp. mustard 1 tsp. crushed red pepper 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. sugar Salt and pepper to taste
Shred cabbage. Mix with sliced onion and celery.
In a separate bowl, mix together mayonnaise, mustard, crushed red pepper, apple cider vinegar and sugar.
Combine cabbage, onion and celery mixture with dressing and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
It’s in the Meat
When it comes to making burgers at home, the quality of your meat is just as important as what you put on top of it. It can be tricky to navigate the shelves of meat options at your local grocery store, so we called in The Butcher’s Market owner, Derek Wilkins, and director of operations, Jeff Gregory, to help us lead you in the right direction.
The Butcher’s Market offers three different types of pressed burger patties: a plain patty, a filet pressed patty using the trimmings of tenderloin and filet mignon and a Butcher’s Blend patty that combines sirloin, brisket and short rib. Both Wilkins and Gregory say they are partial to the Butcher’s Blend patty, which gets its meaty flavor from the sirloin, its fat and juiciness from the brisket and its additional tastiness from the short rib.
If you’re shopping at a standard grocery store, you can still get good quality meat to go with the nice cheeses and unique sauces from local chefs that are featured in these recipes. Gregory recommends talking to the butcher behind the meat case at the grocery store and asking where the meat is ground, when it was ground and what he or she would recommend. Gregory says to look for meat that is freshly ground in-house rather than shipped to the store in pre-made packages.
You’ll find there are a number of different lean-to-fat ratios at your grocery store. Gregory and Wilkins say an 80 to 85 percent lean beef is your best bet.
“You definitely want some fat in there,” Gregory says. “It lends flavor and makes [the burger] more juicy.”
WEB EXCLUSIVE Many of Raleigh’s locally owned restaurants have reopened their dining rooms at 50 percent capacity, in accordance with rules set in place by Gov. Roy Cooper in phase two of the state’s reopening plan. See below for an updated list of where you can now dine in safely.
Click here for a list of which restaurants have takeout and delivery.
You may not be able to go out and visit all your favorite local restaurants and stores but there’s one thing you can do: color them!
Owen Barr, a junior at Saint David’s School, and his father, Todd Barr, started Raleigh Colors, a free, printable online coloring book as a way for Raleighites to exercise their creativity while stuck inside during North Carolina’s stay at home order. Together they went out and took photographs of some of their favorite locales as well as of some iconic Raleigh spots. They then used Photoshop to turn the images into coloring pages. “It’s just a fun way for people to pass the time,” Owen says.
Trophy Brewing Co. coloring page
Coloring pages include the giant chair outside of Snoopy’s Wake Forest Road location, the original Krispy Kreme neon sign at Person Street (pg. 78), the Color Pop Corner at Marbles Kids Museum and Ashley Christensen’s Poole’side Pies restaurant.
Owen says he hopes colorers will support the businesses they’re coloring by ordering takeout from them—if they can—or buying a gift card and tagging the businesses with their social media handles written on each corner of the coloring pages.
“We’re supporting people in Raleigh by giving them something fun to do as well as the businesses on the coloring pages,” says Owen.
Todd and Owen Barr
The homepage of the Raleigh Colors website also has a link for donating to the NC Restaurant Workers Relief Fund or Raleigh Rescue Mission in an effort to provide for those in need during this time.
Owen and his dad are in the process of photographing additional celebrated places around Raleigh to make into coloring pages. They’re also accepting submissions of either photos to make into coloring pages or coloring book pages that have already been made using Photoshop.
Owen says the father-son duo plans to continue Raleigh Colors even after the stay at home order has been lifted. For now, Owen and Todd say they are hopeful the coloring pages will bring to mind great memories of some beloved Raleigh locations as we patiently wait for them to open their doors again.