Shaking up the Raleigh culinary scene, Tamasha Modern Indian opened the doors to its primo North Hills locale back in February. And, as expected, they delivered an almost immediate success story, with reservations quickly booked to the brim and glowing reviews pouring in on everything from its appetizing and artfully presented fare to the carefully designed elegant ambiance.
A rising star still in its infancy, Tamasha is a concept I’ve been looking forward to trying since I first penned an article about its upcoming debut back in December. Ahead of its opening, I had a chance to sit down with executive chef Bhavin Chhatwani and owners Mike Kathrani and Tina Vora to discuss their vision for Tamasha, from the authentic and complex menu to its elevated ambiance. And trust me when I tell you: It exceeded all my already-high expectations.
True to its name, the just-opened Indian oasis is a grand performance (the literal translation) from the moment you step inside the door up until you take your last bite. The lush, sophisticated surrounds communicate a tasteful flair of glitz and glamor, while the moody yet green-accented decor feat. touches of gold round out the restaurant’s boujee environs.
Tamasha
As for the food, I have one word: wow. I would be remiss not to cast a spotlight on the lamb kheema kulcha, an app stuffed with minced lamb, goat cheese and roast garlic butter that I could’ve easily finished by myself (if not for my “sharing is caring” motto when eating out with friends). As for the slow-cooked kerala pork belly bao, the meat was so tender I swear it almost melted in my mouth on impact.
Per a fellow foodie recommendation, I ordered a plate of the purple sweet potato, crunchy kale and shiso chaat—and I was not disappointed. The dish’s textures alone earned it a shoutout—NTM the underlying flavor of mint present in each bite.
On to the main event, every single one of chef Chhatwani’s decadent mains were a hit, from his iteration on the fan-fave/OG Indian staple butter chicken—which the chef claims to be “the best butter chicken” (spoiler: He’s right!)—to the rich and creamy dakhini saag to the Mushroom’s Paradise, which one of my mushroom-averse dining companions declared to be delicious. And take it from me, you’ll want to add the winter black truffle to the dish… it is *chef’s kiss.*
Although I was convinced my stomach was much too full for dessert, we couldn’t pass up a plate of Tamasha’s final grand performance: the North Meets South, a mouthwatering coconut pudding featuring rose, hibiscus and coconut jellies. Essentially, art in dessert form.
In essence, Tamasha achieved—and far surpassed—its mission of executing a “grand performance” from beginning to end, transforming a dinner out into a perfectly executed experience of sights, surrounds and flavor. And I’m already counting down the days until my next visit.
Far East fare is taking our city—and country—by storm.
Asian food is having a moment. With new creative and elevated Far East concepts consistently popping up around the area in droves (see: Tamasha, SAAP, M Test Kitchen, and Heirloom’s new Asian-inspired dinner menu), along with thriving spots boasting years of seasoning—we see you, Brewery Bhavana (and its upcoming Fenton outpost), Bida Manda, Red Dragon, Sono and Five Star—the cuisine is writing a new name for itself.
Before this relatively recent boon of elevated Asian concepts, diners seeking a fancy meal might have elected for dinner at a steakhouse rather than the oft more casual Asian option, which typically conjures images of takeout boxes and casual surrounds. In essence, elevated restaurants have long lacked diversity in terms of menu and clientele. Until now. (This isn’t an attack on low-key Asian. In fact, I love all types of Asian fare, frequent unassuming hole-in-the-wall eateries and even resided in Bangkok for nearly a year where the tantalizing street fare and captivating casual-yet-quality eats abounded—hey, Jay Fai!)
But we can’t deny the shortage of local choices. Our city has long lacked elevated Asian options—aside from Raleigh’s inaugural Japanese sushi outpost, Kanki, serving patrons a full sit-down meal experience with a show since 1972, and the circa-1987 Imperial Garden Restaurant, touting a claim to fame as the Triangle’s OG authentic Chinese eatery.
Now, Far East cuisine seems to be shifting itself into a new era on the foodie scene across the country, with more and more sophisticated concepts popping up and piquing interest all over. This is something the talent behind Tamasha, Raleigh’s first elevated Indian restaurant, noticed and capitalized on through their just-opened concept.
“We feel like Raleigh is ready for a big city-type of restaurant with the glitz and bling you might see in Vegas,” shares Tina Vora on why she and her team decided to debut the luxe—and Michelin-chef helmed—North Hills spot. Adds partner Mike Kathrani: “[Indian food] is one of the most complex foods, and we have seen that the whole gamut of Indian food hasn’t yet been presented to America.”
To wit, the public is craving more and more authentic and diverse food options. “Demand is growing,” shares Sunny Lin, co-owner of MOFU Shoppe, which also nabbed the season six win of Food Network’s The Great Food Truck Race. “Maybe it’s because people have discovered Chinese food isn’t just orange chicken; Vietnamese food isn’t just pho; and Thai food isn’t just pad thai. Globalization is being reflected in people’s palates now.”
Echoing that sentiment is local culinary luminary Lon Bounsanga, who recently bowed Laotian restaurant SAAP. “Successful restaurants create room for more such restaurants,” says the longtime Bida Manda/Brewery Bhavana chef. “As the Asian restaurant scene evolves, smaller Asian countries are seeing their cuisine and culture showcased. Diners are learning that, although ingredients are shared, each cuisine has its own story.”
Translation, the broad cuisine category is (finally) getting the hype and hoopla it’s always deserved. Move over, steakhouses and boujee Italian restaurants—it’s Far East fare’s time to shine.
Heirloom photo by Anna Phommavong
Flavor Profiles by Region
Asian food cannot be grouped into a single category—each region offers vastly rich and diverse flavors, dishes and styles. Here, a quick (noncomprehensive!) breakdown of a few Asian cuisine categories.
▪ Chinese: Salty, spicy, sour, sweet and bitter. Think: soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic and scallion flavors ▪ Japanese: Artistic, exact textures and temperatures, and savory. Think: seafood, tempura, ramen, miso soup ▪ Korean: Flavorful, fiery and fermented. Think: kimchi, Korean BBQ, chile powder and sesame ▪ Southeast Asian: Salty, sweet, spicy, sour and fresh—all in perfect balance. Think: tropical fruits, veggies, lemongrass, Thai basil and lime ▪ South Asian: Spicy, creamy and full of flavor. Think: turmeric, lentils, peas, beans and curry leaves
If you imagine strip mall buffets, butter chicken and various curry dishes when you think of Indian food—it’s time to broaden your horizons. From the minds of serial entrepreneurs and trailblazing restaurateurs Mike Kathrani and Tina Vora—and brought to tasteful life via the culinary genius of executive chef Bhavin Chhatwani—comes the extravagant and authentic Indian concept, Tamasha Modern Indian.
The restaurant, set to slide into a primo North Hills locale on the ground floor of the Advance Auto Parts Tower and open Feb. 9, will introduce innovative, progressive and genuine Indian cuisine to the Raleigh community—thus filling a much-needed gap in the diversity of our city’s food scene.
Tamasha, which translates to “grand performance,” is poised to bring a certain flair and wow-factor to elevate the cuisine. “Indian food is underrated,” says Kathrani. “It is one of the most complex foods, and we have seen that the whole gamut of Indian food hasn’t yet been presented to America”—and certainly not Raleigh.
The refreshing restaurant will serve up everything from starters for sharing to dessert, along with large artfully presented plates meant to be enjoyed individually. Keeping diners on their toes via constant rotation of new dishes, the acclaimed chef plans to implement local ingredients to showcase the rich and diverse flavors authentic to India.
“My cooking style is experimental and creative,” Chhatwani maintains. To wit, expect to find a twist on traditional spicy South Indian dish Chicken 65, with oysters in lieu of chicken; meat curry-filled bao buns; and creative takes on classic Indian desserts.
Rounding out that grand performance, the restaurant’s interior design communicates a sleek, modern and elegant ambiance. In essence, an immaculate presentation can be anticipated on all fronts.
“We feel like Raleigh is ready for a big city-type of restaurant with the glitz and bling you might see in Vegas,” shares Vora, the visionary behind Tamasha’s luxury design aesthetic. Emulating Zen and a definitively striking space, the sophisticated atmosphere will feature modern touches; a dark moody vibe with olive green, lush velvet and tasteful gold accents (think arches over the tables and fancy lighting arrangements); and greenery lining the walls.
With Raleigh’s exploding food scene, it’s only fitting that the Tamasha team is now launching this intentionally and unapologetically authentic Indian concept in our fair city. And we are ready to dig in. Reservations live beginning Jan. 31, tamashanc.com, @tamashanc
