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Sometimes, less is more—which is precisely the case with La Taqueria: the latest from restaurateur Anthony Rapillo and celeb chef Katsuji Tanabe. Now open in the former Boxyard RTP Leroy’s space, the duo’s second concept—behind last year’s DTR Flour & Barrel—specializes in the simple yet flavor-filled authentic tacos Tanabe was raised on in Mexico City. No fussy elaborate ingredients—just really delicious, fresh tacos.
Aiming to answer the call as “the best, most authentic Mexican tacos in the Triangle,” the taqueria (aka resto specializing in tacos) features handpressed tortillas alongside four types of protein: chicken, chorizo, brisket and mushroom—plus myriad garnishes. Think homemade salsas, fresh and pickled onions, cilantro, and lime.
While a sole food offering (save some specials Tanabe has in the works) may seem basic, Rapillo ensures they’re anything but. Marinated in a steaming bath of spices, broth and lard, the meats all get slow-cooked together in a “hot tub”-type pan (aka choricero). The result is tender meat and “a far more interesting broth that seasons everything cooked in it,” says Rapillo. “If you’ve ever sat facing a Chinese hot pot or Italian bollito misto, you are familiar with the effect.”
While Rapillo was initially skeptical about a taqueria, a taste of the Top Chef vet’s tacos flipped the script. “I came over for lunch, and I was like, ‘There’s no way I’m gonna make tacos in Durham,’” recalls Rapillo. “And then two hours later I was like, ‘I guess I’m going to make tacos in Durham.’”
Hydrating your hunger, La Taqueria will also serve pre-batched tequila- and mezcal-based mixed cocktails in its revamped space, complete with an expanded dining room, upgraded tables and chairs, fresh paint, and an ever-so-apt Mexican spotted owl mural by the same artist behind the Flour & Barrel masterpiece.
Put simply: It’s a fresh take on your typical taco joint—“a pure taqueria,” maintains Rapillo. “There’s no other rhyme or reason to it—just super authentic, super-fresh tacos.” It promises to be the ~taco~ the town (had to). @lataqueriaboxyard
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