Pasta la Vista

Pasta la Vista

A first look at Figulina’s menu

Take everything you know about “traditional” pasta and throw it out the window. As you likely know, a refreshing new pasta concept is twirling into the former Humble Pie space in early 2024. Now, we have a first look at Figulina’s tasty menu and additional details on the restaurant, opening at the hands of former Poole’s Diner chef de cuisine David Ellis, along with his wife, Sam, and CDC Dylan Shook, who also worked with him at Poole’s.

While the menu will feature some of your classics—done really well, naturally—like a super-comforting Bolognese, the highlight of the menu will be less-common pasta types you may not have heard of. Think rotolo, in which the fillings are rolled up in pasta sheets and baked in the oven; and corzetti, which Ellis makes with a white wine-based dough flavored with pimentón (a type of paprika) and Old Bay—a nod to the South—that’s cut into circles and imprinted with different designs using a special stamp. 

Local ingredients will be prominent throughout the entire menu, which, in addition to six or seven pastas, will also include lighter fare like crudos, charcuterie and salads. Because, you know, balance. A large full-service bar will serve up wine, beer and simple cocktails incorporating local elements as well.

Having worked at Poole’s for four years, Ellis is well-versed in cooking with local ingredients, and pasta will serve as the ultimate vessel for showcasing the state’s harvest. Before that, the Stoke-on-Trent, England-born chef proprietor also honed his pasta-making skills working in kitchens across the world—from England to France to New Zealand and Australia. 

It wasn’t until the pandemic, however, that making pasta became a “new obsession,” says Ellis. And having always wanted to open a restaurant, going with a pasta concept just made sense at the time. “There is a small pasta scene in Raleigh, but I felt there was space for a fresh handmade pasta restaurant,” he adds. “There seems to be a little bit of a pasta buzz right now and we hope that people will be excited by what we bring to the table.”

But Figulina is guaranteed to stand out from the rest. In addition to an extraordinary menu, the restaurant will also feature an on-display pasta production room, where guests will be able to see the pasta being rolled and cut into shapes, and a provisions aspect that will start small and eventually grow to offer take-home pasta kits, dry and fresh pasta, sauces, and the like.

Additionally, Ellis and his team envision Figulina will grow and evolve as a whole over time. “We have so many ideas,” says Sam, who created the branding for the restaurant. “We look forward to growing into the space and bringing all those ideas to life.” In the meantime, prepare yourself for a world of new pasta-bilities (!). @figulina.raleigh

A Hole in One

A Hole in One

Tepuy Donuts opening a brick-and-mortar this spring

If a stop at Idle Hour is now a staple part of your morning routine for a “hole in one”—aka a delish doughnut that only Tepuy Donuts delivers—you can soon upgrade your daily tradition. Raleigh’s “Doughnut Guy” is leveling up with a brick-and-mortar. … Pause for applause.

Despite only having lived in Raleigh for about four years, that “Doughnut Guy”—aka founder, owner and baker Alejandro Contreras—has made quite the name for himself… and at a time when that’s a relatively difficult grab considering those dough holes are having quite the moment. 

But Contreras’ first storefront will be just the beginning of yet another chapter. Slated to open in the spring in a small shopping center where Capital Boulevard and 440 meet, Tepuy’s outpost will lean toward grab-and-go doughnuts and coffee, with some indoor seating and a spacious patio. And before you fret, his popular sourdough doughnuts will continue to be available at existing locations throughout the Triangle. 

At the shop, expect all the standard and seasonal flavors you know and love (vanilla bean-glazed and Nutella-filled are Contreras’ two faves)—plus some new options he and his team will dream up. To boot, the brick-and-mortar will also serve housemade breakfast sandwiches and traditional savory Venezuelan pastries like empanadas, kolaches and tequeños (aka “cheese fingers”).

A native of Venezuela, Contreras taught himself how to bake while going to culinary school in his home country, initially making cinnamon rolls. It wasn’t until he visited the States and went to Krispy Kreme that the doughnut bug caught him and he began selling them back in Argentina, where he lived at the time.

Since launching Tepuy—named after a type of tabletop mountain found in Venezuela—out of Mandolin’s kitchen midpandemic, the doughnut connoisseur has always dreamed of opening a brick-and-mortar. And, a full-circle moment, Mandolin chef/owner Sean Fowler will actually be a silent partner in the venture as well. “I can’t wait—I already imagine myself there,” Contreras muses. “It’s been a journey.” And we’re here for the sweet ride. tepuydonuts.com

Bread—y for It

Bread—y for It

Sweeten up the holidays with Union Special’s labor-intensive and oh-so-delicious panettone.

Everything that comes out of Union Special’s kitchen is a labor of love. But nothing gets more passion—and painstaking time—poured into it than panettone.

“A real mountain climb for bakers,” emphasizes Union Special owner/baker Andrew Ullom, the naturally leavened bread—a holiday tradition in Italy known for its light cake texture—“is very specific and pretty difficult.” … But, oh, so worth it.

Like most of us, the Union Special team experimented with baking during the pandemic—and making panettone posed just the challenge they needed. Fast-forward to today, and it’s become a seasonal bakery tradition—and a Raleigh fave.

Intense, but fun, the baking process begins with Lievito Madre, a specific—and needy (think only gloved hands and sanitized mixers)—starter that must be fed every four to five hours, and kept at exactly 82 degrees, says Ullom. So, just the kind of thing you have time to master in a pandemic…

From there, there’s two stages of dough, the first of which ferments overnight for four to six hours in the walk-in cooler, while the second rises in molds for another four to five hours. In essence, time is about as valuable as the starter (!).

Last year the Union Special team cranked out 300 panettones, and this season Ullom hopes to get to 350. And if those sell out, they’ll make more.

For the final touch, the dough is lathered in an egg white-sunflower seed-sugar glaze before going into the oven. Then, the finished panettones are so fragile they must hang upside down overnight to cool, says Ullom. So, it’s like if Batman were bread.

Naturally, the process comes with trial and error—think contaminated starters and broken doughs. “It’s not necessarily a tradition we love, but we’re very likely going to ruin the first mix every year,” Ullom admits. Nevertheless, the results always pay off. 

“The last two Christmas seasons we’ve been pretty successful with it,” says Ullom. This year, Union Special will offer two sizes—500 grams and 1 kilo—in standard chocolate chip (loaded with dark, semi and white chocolate chips), and chocolate, cherry and orange flavors. 

So if you’re looking for a dessert to enjoy after (or before—no judgment!) your holiday dinner, or just something to nosh on with your coffee or tea in the morning, meet your new fave seasonal sweet fix. unionspecialbread.com

O Come All Ye Thirsty

O Come All Ye Thirsty

Doreen Colondres PC Linda Nguyen
Doreen Colondres | Photo by Linda Nguyen

It’s the most wine-derful time of the year—as the holidays = lots of wine and lots of snacks (yes, please!). So we asked Vitis House owner and wine connoisseur Doreen Colondres for her tips on pairing the two, no matter what kind of snack situation you have up your sleeve this season—and whether you’re hosting a festive soiree or taking your “girl dinner” next-level. Cheers to balanced bites and bevs!

Crudité
For the vegetarians and veggie-lovers alike, Colondres recommends pairing vegetable dishes with a sauvignon blanc from Chile, New Zealand, Sancerre or any area of the Loire Valley—as “high acidic wines will pair to perfection with highly acidic foods.”

Charcuterie
Super Tuscans—traditionally blends of sangiovese with international grape varietals like merlot and cabernet—tend to be smooth with great acidity, the perfect amount of tannins and a not-too-high alcohol content, making them a good pair for meats and aged cheeses in a charcuterie plate, says Colondres. 

Fruit + Desserts
You can’t forget dessert! Sweet fruits and the likes of cookies, brownies and other treats are best paired with a sweet wine, naturally, like moscato. Or opt for bubbles, which pairs well with pretty much anything, says Colondres.

Dips
What’s a holiday party—or any party really—without dip?! Because most dips are mayo-, sour cream- or yogurt-based (all of which have relatively high levels of acidity), they req a high-acid wine to complement. According to Colondres, the Gewürztraminer from Austria would be a great pairing due to its complexity and rounded and almondy flavors: “Any seafood or vegetable dip will be fantastic with that.”

Crunchy, Spicy Foods
If you’re going super-basic—read: you didn’t have time to grocery shop or prepare anything more substantial—and chips are all you have in your pantry, go for a bag that serves up a little bit of a kick (like, say, Flamin’ Hot Cheetos or Doritos—really). You’re gonna wanna lean simple when it comes to the wine, so Colondres recommends pairing with a riesling from Mosel.

Ways to Give and Get Back

Ways to Give and Get Back

Helping Hand Mission

Drop off clothes, furniture, toys and household items for families in need at collection boxes in shopping centers across Wake County. Or donate cash to support Helping Hand’s New Bern House Soup Kitchen and other services. wake.nc.networkofcare.org

Food Bank of Central & Eastern North Carolina

Donate money toward holiday meals for families in need now through the new year. Every $10 donation provides up to 50 meals, with opportunities to match donations as well. And if you’d rather contribute consumable goods to the cause, the Food Bank accepts myriad large and small food donations. So sleigh! foodbankcenc.org

InterAct Holiday Bazaar

’Tis the season for generosity! From now through Nov. 30, InterAct is accepting monetary donations that will go toward gift cards for the families InterAct supports—or volunteer to gather goods, decorate and prep the Holiday Bazaar Boxes to be distributed to those in our community impacted by domestic and sexual violence. interactofwake.org

Volunteer

Photo courtesy of The Salvation Army of Wake County

The Salvation Army of Wake County

Ready to roll up your sleeves and volunteer? Find a scad of ways to provide hands-on help, whether you’re jumping on as a kitchen donations helper, working at the family thrift store or helping in the soup line. southernusa.salvationarmy.org

Shepherd’s Table Soup Kitchen

Shepherd’s Table serves ~250 meals per day, with volunteers preparing food and serving until noon, followed by a light cleanup afterward. shepherds-table.org

Photo courtesy of Food Bank of Central & Eastern North Carolina

Food Bank of Central & Eastern North Carolina

Hungry for another way to help? Individual and group volunteers sort and repack bulk food items and produce, help partner agencies pick up food and build disaster relief boxes. Or organize a food drive at your office, church or in your community. foodbankcenc.org

Meals on Wheels Wake County

They see me rollin… to deliver hot meals to older adults and disabled clients. The program also provides opportunities for volunteers to check on each clients’ wellbeing and ensure their safety. wakemow.org 

Warmth for Wake

During the cold weather months, volunteer to cut, split and deliver firewood to low-income residents of Wake County. Work sessions are held ever other Saturday morning through March. wakegov.com/humanservices

Giving Events

Designed for Joy Weekend Pop-up, through December 24
Purse-sue your handbag dreams and pop into this pop-up to snag some stylish bags and support women in crisis this holiday season. designedforjoy.com

Blood Drives with the American Red Cross, through December 31
Holiday heroes: needed. Sign up to give blood at DPAC’s holiday blood drive to give the gift of life this holiday season. support.redcrossblood.org

Jingle Ball, December 7
Mix, mingle and chill with Kris Kringle at Capital City Clauses’ 30th  annual Jingle Ball at the NC Museum of Natural Sciences. The joyful evening will feature delish Rocky Top Catering fare, Conniption Gin martinis, a photo booth, a permanent jewelry station and much more. capitalcityclauses.org

Christmas Meal Packing, December 19–22
The best way to spread Christmas cheer is by signing up to pack, deliver and distribute Christmas meals to fellow Raleighites via Raleigh Rescue Mission. Happy holidays, indeed! raleighrescue.org

Oakwood24, December 22–23
Lace up those sneaks for the 6th annual daylong (read: 24-hour) run/walk benefiting Healing Transitions and supporting addiction recovery. healing-transitions.org