The Brunch Bunch

The Brunch Bunch

The origins of that mid-day meal that’s not quite breakfast, and not quite lunch, but combines the best of both, are a little hazy. It’s safe to say, though, that the popularity of brunch has been growing in cities like Raleigh for at least a decade. In the South, it’s also a meal we typically associate with spring; who doesn’t love sitting on on a patio on a sunny weekend afternoon, sipping a Mimosa?

As far as food goes, you pretty much have your choice. Are you in the mood for breakfast fare, like bacon and pancakes? Or is it lunch you crave, an omelet, say, or a salad? Even if you’re just planning to hit up the Bloody Mary bar, or want something that most closely resembles a dessert, brunch is always a judgment-free zone.

Take a tour of Raleigh’s best brunch options with us in the coming pages.

Nofo

If you’ve never been to Nofo, you might find it a little quirky at first. It’s a combination café, food market and gift shop, but once you sit down for brunch, you know you’ll be back. The food and service come with a double dose of Southern hospitality… plus an amazing Bloody Mary. Most unique? Pulled Pork Hash: NC-pulled pork with potatoes, red onions, bell peppers, two poached eggs, hollandaise and biscuits. nofo.com, 2014 Fairview Road, (919) 821-1240, Saturday & Sunday 10 a.m.-3 p.m., Reservations NOT accepted for brunch except on holidays.

Centro

Frida & Diego at Centro

Angela Salamanca and her Uncle Carlos opened Centro in 2007, with a plan to serve the best locally sourced Mexican and Latin American food in Raleigh. It’s a fun, colorful spot for your weekend. Most unique? Frida & Diego: Sweet potato arepa topped with queso fresco, chorizo, and huevos divorciados with a duo of jalapeño and habanera salsas. centroraleigh.com, 106 S. Wilmington Street, (919) 835-3593, Saturday 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Reservations recommended

Duck Chilaquiles Verdes at so•ca

so•ca

While your first inclination for brunch might not be Latin or Caribbean food, think again. This beautiful modern restaurant offers popular dishes from more than 20 countries; it will inspire you to pack a bag for South America. Most unique? Duck Chilaquiles Verdes: Duck leg confit, queso fresco, corn tortillas, chipotle vinaigrette, avocado chimichurri and a fried local duck egg. socaraleigh.com, 2130 Clark Ave., Cameron Village, (919) 322-0440, Saturday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. & Sunday 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Reservations recommended

Parkside

Fried Pork Chop at Parkside

Parkside may be best known for its location at this point —it sits under the longest-running neon restaurant sign in North Carolina, at the corner of West Martin and South Dawson Streets. But don’t let that dissuade you from trying Parkside’s brunch; it has quickly become a go-to spot, offering a mixture of classics and unique Southern creations. Most unique? Fried pork chop with cheddar waffle, peach bourbon glaze, powdered sugar and maple syrup. parksideraleigh.com, 301 W. Martin Street, (984) 232-8969, Saturday & Sunday 11a.m.-3 p.m.

Wood-Fire Grilled Meatloaf at 18 Seaboard

18 Seaboard

18 Seaboard is a modern, elegant restaurant located in the repurposed, historic coastal train depot Seaboard Station— and it has long been a leader in the culinary community, winning awards for great food and philanthropic work. 18 Seaboard’s brunch menu features omelets and pancakes with salads and sandwiches. Most unique? Wood-Fire Grilled Moore Brothers Meatloaf with home fries, spinach and white pan gravy. 18restaurantgroup.com/18-seaboard, 18 Seaboard Avenue, (919) 861-4318, Sunday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Reservations recommended.

Roasted oysters at St. Roch

St. Roch

St. Roch is the newest restaurant on this list and the only restaurant in Raleigh that serves oysters for brunch. Of course, if oysters aren’t your thing, there are other great choices, from BBQ’d Shrimp and Grits to the No Bullsh*t Salad, which is delicious with a champagne vinaigrette dressing. Most unique? North Carolina Oysters: Collar’d with smoked tomato, tasso ham and tobacco; BBQ’d with lemon, rosemary, cayenne and pepper; Pimento’d with smoked pimento cheese, bread crumbs, jalapeño. strochraleigh.com, 223 S. Wilmington Street, (919) 322-0359, Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m-2 p.m. Reservations recommended.

Jose & Sons Bar & Kitchen

It’s truly hard to say what is best at Jose & Sons: the food, the atmosphere, or the story of five siblings inspired by their father’s love of hospitality and serving good food that inspired them to open the restaurant. The Jose & Sons menu blends the family’s Mexican roots, local southern flavors and Chef Oscar’s creativity. Brunch here is delicious and fun, with a tequila and bourbon tower set up right in the middle of the restaurant. Most unique? “Jibarito” Plantainwich: Crisp plantain, sliced ribeye, lettuce, tomato, Duke’s mayo, habanero salsa and queso fresco. joseandsons.com, 327 W. Davie Street #102, (919) 755-0556, Saturday 12 p.m.-3 p.m. & Sunday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Sausage Hash at Midtown Grille

Midtown Grille

If elegantly delicious sounds like your brunch cup of tea, then this is your spot. Midtown Grille’s brunch menu offers a combination of classics mixed with some surprises, such as the Crab Cake Benedict or the Smoked Salmon Omelette. Most unique? Lamb Sausage Hash: Fingerling potato, red pearl onion, spinach, roasted red pepper sauce with a sunny-side up egg. themidtowngrille.com, 4421 Six Forks Road #115, (919) 782-9463, Sunday 10 a.m.-3 p.m.

Chick Fried Steak at Tupelo Honey

Tupelo Honey

This quintessential Southern restaurant serves everyone complimentary biscuits, jam and Tupelo honey. The menu highlights southern favorites from Fried Green Tomatoes to Eggs Betty and Shoo Mercy Sweet Potato Pancakes. Most unique? Chicken Fried Steak: Savory biscuit bread pudding, milk gravy, caramelized onions, pickled okra and green beans. tupelohoneycafe.com, 425 Oberlin Road, (919) 723-9353, Saturday & Sunday 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Reservations recommended.

Winston’s Grille

Brunch Quesadilla at Winston’s Grille

Winston’s Grille’s promise to diners is to make everyday dining experiences memorable— and they’ve been working at that mission for more than 30 years. Winston’s brunch menu is one of the largest in Raleigh, with everything from soups, salads and sandwiches. Most unique? Winston’s Brunch Quesadilla: Two flour tortillas stuffed with prime rib, sautéed peppers, mozzarella and cheddar cheese, onions and eggs, served with sour cream and salsa. winstonsgrille.com, 6401 Falls of Neuse Road, (919) 790-0700, Sunday 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Reservations recommended.

Iris at NCMA

Iris is known for its artful food in an art-filled space. The menu features contemporary American fare in a sophisticated setting, and brunch features a range of salads and classic dishes, including omelets and eggs. Most unique? Wild Mushroom, Leek + Chevre Fritatta: Nova-style smoked salmon, seasonal fruit, field greens, herb-shallot vinaigrette. ncartmuseum.org/visit/dining, 2110 Blue Ridge Rd, Raleigh, NC 27607, (919) 664-6838, Saturday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. & Sunday 10:30 a.m-2:30 p.m.

Extra Hungry?

If you want unlimited portions, these places offer a traditional brunch buffet:

Driftwood Southern Kitchen

Buffet items rotate each week, but staples include eggs, bacon, sausage, french toast, biscuits & sausage gravy, fresh fruit, greek yogurt, macaroni & cheese, salads, desserts and specialty items like smoked meats and/or fried chicken. $16.95 adults, $9.95 children driftwoodraleigh.com, 8460 Honeycutt Rd, Suite 112, (919) 977-8360, Sunday 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

bu ku

Belgian waffle, omelet and carved meat stations; baked goods, fresh cut fruit and salads, globally-inspired hot dishes and desserts. $24.95 adults, $12.95 children bukuraleigh.com, 110 E. Davie Street, (919) 834-6963, Sunday 10 a.m-3 p.m.

Bar Bites

Bar Bites

Raleigh restaurants are raising the bar on bar snacks.

“Small plates” have gone from buzz words to standard menu fare, but an even smaller plate is making its presence known: the bar snack. Restaurants around Raleigh are stepping up their bar games by offering a separate food menu; this not only means better bar dining options, but it also gives diners the chance to experience a chef’s cooking style or try a more upscale restaurant without the expense or to-do.

“I think we are alienating a certain demographic that has the desire to come to a more well-rounded restaurant like ours and be able to experience it in a more casual manner and not have a reservation or get dressed up,” says chef de cuisine Jake Wood of 18 Seaboard, which offers small plates, raw options and shareables, in addition to entrees, in hopes of appealing to everyone.

From fine-dining gems to ramen shops to steakhouses, these three restaurant bars are putting as much emphasis on their bar snacks as they are on drinks. Stop in soon for a bit of snappy snacking.

18 Seaboard

18 Seaboard’s bar snack menu showcases chef-owner Jason Smith’s refined Southern cuisine and penchant for impeccably sourced ingredients executed with chef de cuisine Jake Wood’s creative flair. Highlights include barbecue popcorn, where Geechie Boy Mill indigo blue kernels are popped in bacon fat, tossed with a Maui sweet onion barbecue dry rub and finished with Sea Love Sea Salt Co.’s sea salt and crumbled country ham; duck BBQ buns, featuring warm bao stuffed with duck confit and finished with Alabama white barbecue sauce, micro chervil and puffed farro piccolo, another heirloom grain from Geechie Boy Mill; and broiled N.C. Core Sounders oysters topped with house made pimento cheese and prosciutto. Fuel your snack party with either the strawberry-rhubarb sangria, punched up with strawberry vodka, or a blood orange margarita, bolstered with blood orange rind syrup.

Mandolin

Jason Wolonick

With its rich wood tones, clean lines and mason jar-lined shelves, Mandolin feels like the chic-est farmhouse ever, which is fitting as the menu features ingredients from chef-owner Sean Fowler’s farm. The farm-to-table vibes extend to the bar too, with a menu that marries Fowler’s fine dining finesse and creative riffs on Southern cuisine, including a bar-setting charcuterie board with silky chicken liver pâté and head cheese, plus pickled components such as celery or fermented cucamelons. Pair it with The Farmer’s Daughter, a spring-ready gin fizz crafted with a strawberry-beet shrub. The mix-and-match bar plates menu is also a highlight (and a steal)—$15 gets you a craft beer (try Lynwood Brewing Concern’s Czech Yourself pilsner), and either a main dish, such as the pimento cheese bacon burger, or two sides including hand cut French fries showered with duck fat and malt vinegar powders and airy pork rinds with a side of ranch dressing, which gets a tangy umami hit from smoked, fermented collard stems.

 

Sullivan’s Steakhouse

Sullivan’s Steakhouse

Sullivan’s Steakhouse is best known for its Flinstonian bone-in steaks and seafood-inspired fare, but its new bar menu offers a bite-size taste of the steakhouse experience. Try the truffle steak tartare, where chopped raw beef redolent of earthy truffles is piled onto challah toast rounds and topped with a one-two crunch of cornichons and pickled shallots. Or try the tuna poke shooters, served atop English cucumber rounds arranged on a dramatic pink salt block. Pair these with the Fig Rosemary Smash, where Rémy Martin VSOP Cognac mingles with lemon and herbal Bittermens Scarborough bitters, garnished with a fresh rosemary sprig and spoonful of fig preserves. Take advantage of $7 shared bar bites, signature cocktails and select wines during happy hour Thursdays and Sundays from 4:30 p.m. until close.

18 Seaboard Chef Dishes on Restaurant Success

18 Seaboard Chef Dishes on Restaurant Success

Chef Jason Smith is known for his cracklin’ pork shank, fresh salmon salad and $9 lunch meatloaf from a wood-fire grill.

But on Tuesday nights the flavor profile is cheesy. And it’s more mac-and-cheese than goat cheese guacamole. That’s because Tuesdays often mean daddy-daughter dates for Smith, 41, and his daughter Sutton, 7. Maybe they venture to one of Smith’s restaurants — 18 Seaboard, Cantina 18 and Harvest 18. Or maybe they hit some “non-18” spots such as Players’ Retreat and Sardi’s Den.

No matter where they are, it’s not unusual for fellow diners to ask him if he’s “checking out the competition.”

Absolutely not.

“I will say no. I am just having a good time … out, having fun. Are you kidding me?” he laughs.18 Seaboard_JDavis

Maybe it’s the white chef’s coat with the small, embroidered state flag or the way he constantly credits others, including his wife Lauren, staff and local purveyors, but it’s easy to believe him.

He’s also having a big year. In a few months his first restaurant, Seaboard 18, will turn 10. His second – and busiest – restaurant, Cantina 18, will reopen by December with a fresh design, newly white-washed and exposed brick walls (circa 1959), accordion windows, a horseshoe bar, pressed bamboo floors and 2,000 additional square feet.

“It’s gonna be the same old Cantina. It was working great,” Smith says. “We are just expanding and freshening … the entire concept [at Cantina 18] is driven on fresh food. We are farm to fork, chef driven and Southwest.”

Smith, who is also dad to 3-year-old son Lawson, will soon begin his role as board chair of the Downtown Raleigh Alliance. It’s a natural fit for the man whose father (an attorney) and grandfathers (a machinist and a firefighter) all worked in downtown Raleigh, too.

10450315_796378717074157_7145481314469070952_oThe eldest of four children, Smith’s Raleigh roots go even deeper. He was born at Rex Hospital, at its former location on St. Mary’s Street. And, just after high school, his first job in the restaurant business was at 42nd Street Oyster Bar. (He also worked in Durham, New York City and Charleston before opening his own restaurant.)

“I love comfort food. [With 18 Seaboard] I wanted to do sensible and Southern with contemporary nuances,” he said. “I didn’t want the restaurant to be an intellectual test. I wanted it to be a place people could make memories or entertain clients … [a place that’s] approachable and fun.”