As Foundation turns 15, we look back at how the DTR speakeasy has shaped Raleigh’s cocktail culture—and what’s next.
Before Foundation even opened its doors 15 years ago, co-owners Will Alphin and Vince Whitehurst saw it as a Raleigh institution. Fast-forward to today, and now truly ingrained in DTR’s identity, it will enter its next chapter as bartender/manager Kyle Hankin slowly takes over the reins.
From the jump, the OG duo—Whitehurst, an architect; and Alphin, a designer and builder—designed Foundation as a place “tied to the city, not to a person, that would be its own benevolent presence and have its own personality,” says Alphin—“so that every guest could have their experience at the bar on their own terms.”
Though it was the first “modern-day cocktail bar” in the city, it never had an arrogant air about it. Foundation’s original manager boasted a culinary school pedigree and a résumé that included exposure to New York City’s cocktail scene—and precisely where he garnered ideas for seasonal farm-to-table-esque cocktails made with locally sourced ingredients (also inspired in part by what Ashley Christensen was doing at Poole’s at the time). Not to mention the bar’s sustainable MO that remains to this day, making for the “goodliest drinks under the cope of heaven.”
But despite being at the forefront of avant-garde cocktail culture, the scene itself and guest experiences have always remained the focus, maintains Alphin. “Our landlord called it a lounge,” he says. “Some folks call it a whiskey bar, or a cocktail bar, or a speakeasy or their neighborhood bar. We always nod in agreement with anyone that has the courage to venture down the steps.”
Alphin stresses that’s not to say the folks behind the scenes were not an essential part of the, well, foundation. For its part, the drinking den has seen its fair share of brilliant individuals behind the stick, on the floor and in the pop-up kitchen, including Hankin (see right for more standouts), who Alphin says is a “true natural hospitalitarian, to borrow a term from restaurateur Danny Meyer.”
And, so, knowing they wouldn’t be the owners for as long as they hoped the bar would be around, Alphin and Whitehurst saw Hankin as a natural fit for the bar’s next phase—though they will remain involved in an advisory role for as long as needed, “and as bar customers until they put us in the ground,” Alphin emphasizes.
“Ownership of the bar is a weird feeling—a very good one, but certainly strange,” Hankin admits. “Having the responsibility to continue the legacy is pretty big, but the last seven years behind the bar have prepared me for it. I’m excited for the new chapter.”
Regardless of the new ownership, Alphin hopes the space’s character will persevere, and will continue to serve the best Old-Fashioned in town. “Good bars, good restaurants and all small businesses need a healthy ecosystem to thrive,” he says. “I’m hoping we’ll remain reliable for folks who just like the same old thing, or folks who like the opportunity to try something new.” Cheers to the next 15+ more years.
Fave Memories Kevin Barrett’s last day, the 10th Anniversary Party, Longleaf Swine cheeseburgers, when we realized Rumple Minze was made in the U.S., deep cleans, menu changes, watching storms out front, picking private barrels and so many more — Kyle Hankin, new Foundation owner
Foundation opened at the perfect time for the reemergence of Southern cuisine, pre-Prohibition cocktails and incorporating seasonality into the approach of a menu. All of this separated Foundation from some other cocktail bars that have come and gone that relied on trends instead of being built on something they actually believed in.” —Andrew Shepherd, founding partner, Stanbury | Original manager/founder and creator of Foundation’s core beverage program
There were many a great night, but my favorite memory was the party they threw on my last day. We had past Foundation bartenders like Matt Bettinger and Alex Flynn guest bartend, as well as future Foundation bartenders like Garrett Waddell. There was an amazing crowd there that night. They even let me bring in some liquor made outside the U.S. It was a great way to transition from seven years at Foundation to my future at Dram & Draught.” — Kevin Barrett, co-owner, Dram & Draught | Foundation opening employee, then later manager
One of my favorite memories was being greeted by Lucy (Garret’s dog) upon entry. Definitely made the butt-kicking we were going to get a lot better! Also being able to see those dudes come up with their mad scientist cocktails was really cool!” — Marc Russell, co-owner, Longleaf Swine | Hosted pop-ups at Foundation
Nothing beats a night of tending bar, chatting up regulars (and those soon-to-be), then finishing it up with a session at Table 5 (if you know you know). Solving the big-picture stuff, or maybe scheming how to make a little trouble down the line. Either way, those late nights that ended as early mornings after a long day’s work—nothing beats it. Cheers, Foundation, and thanks for all the times.” — Matt Bettinger, co-owner, SideBar, Hank’s Downtown Dive, C. Grace (RIP) | Former Foundation bartender
My favorite memories were always the last shifts of any bartender (or server) that worked there. The energy in the room was never matched, and I was always impressed by how much the community showed up to say farewell to their neighborhood Foundation employee and friend. I remember coming back to Raleigh from DC when I lived there for Kevin Barrett’s last night in 2016, and it truly felt like a birthday party. Every regular customer was there all at the same time and it was an amazing night.” — Alex Flynn, senior sales manager Northeast, Durham Distillery (also helped open Haymaker and The Green Light) | former Foundation bartender
Fun fact: Norton wandered in because his car broke down nearby and got offered a barback position that same day, then climbed the ranks to bartender, fell in love with a regular (Kim Hammer) and the pair opened two DTR bars. —Lewis Norton, co-owner, Bittersweet, Johnson Street Yacht Club | Former Foundation bartender
Scott Crawford is going underground—literally. The esteemed restaurateur has taken over the lease of former The Atlantic Lounge space on Person Street (located right below his Jolie restaurant), with plans to reopen as Sous Terre—French for “underground”—after a redesign + new menu in early 2024. Happy New Year to us, indeed!
Shaking things up with elevated classic craft cocktails is Crawford Hospitality Beverage Director and four-year Crawford and Son veteran Jordan Joseph, who will be leading the spirited program. “We hope Sous Terre will be a thoughtful addition to the neighborhood, to our hospitality brand, and serve as a showcase for Jordan Joseph’s cocktails and the area’s most exciting bar talent,” Crawford emphasizes.
Key-holding members of The Atlantic Lounge will still have access to the creative ’tails down under via the bar’s original key membership. And guests of Jolie and Crawford and Son will continue to have access to the space as well. Pre-dinner drink or nightcap, anyone?!
If Meg Paradise told you she was opening a nonalcoholic bar in Raleigh two years ago, you’d probably tell her she was insane—and many people did. Fast-forward to now, and her just-bowed Umbrella Dry Bar has been accepted with open arms by sober and sober-curious Raleighites eagerly awaiting such a concept.
But despite the initial Dry January buzz, are spirit-free sips enough to sustain an entire enterprise? Paradise is willing to bet a full-blown bar business on it—and emphasizes the timing couldn’t be more perfect.
“The amount of strangers I’ve spoken to who say, ‘We’re so ready for this,’ or ‘There’s something for me now…’” she says. “I don’t even think [the sober movement] is really trendy—it’s just immersed in our culture these days.”
To wit, the “movement” isn’t just black and white: You’re sober or not. Even Paradise doesn’t put boundaries on her own drinking. “I don’t identify with the term sober,” she says. “I’m just not called to drink.”
And she’s not alone. Hence the trend. Often—and many—people just want a night out sans alc for any number of reasons. So much so that “mindful” or “sober curious” or “damp” drinking has taken off in popularity as of late, supplemented with more and more bars both in Raleigh and countrywide expanding menus with nonalcoholic options to include mocktails; NA beer, wine, spirits; and more.
Leading the charge—and speaking volumes—is one of America’s biggest party towns. Austin has leaned into the passion for spiritless potions since the pandemic. See its Sans Bar, the first-ever NA bar in the U.S., bowing its brick-and-mortar last year and surging since. “Sans Bar has captured the spirit (no pun intended) of a bar by providing a gathering space with tasty libations, live music, trivia and comedy nights,” says Austin MonthlyEditor-in-Chief Madeline Hollern. “The point of a bar was never really about getting drunk—it was always about connection and entertainment.”
Even before Umbrella opened its doors—or began pop-ups in 2022—Raleigh was no stranger to sober-curiosity. Perhaps ahead of its time, Killjoy first bowed with a largely zero-proof concept in 2020, with half its opening menu consisting of spirit-free cocktails—all but unheard of at the time. While NA drinks remain a huge focus, owner Josh Gagne recognizes it might’ve been a bit too early to full send.
“When we were initially developing the concept of Killjoy, we had spent a solid amount of time discussing whether or not we wanted it to be nonalcoholic only,” he says. “But I didn’t see a way it could be sustainable financially, so that’s why I really want to support [Umbrella]—and I hope they kill it. It’s challenging more concepts to have more options, which is making it more relatable and comfortable for people who don’t consume.”
Beyond the country’s mindset shift toward drinking—and nodding toward timing—Paradise also emphasizes the sheer increase in volume of spirit-alternative product availability, including beers, wines and spirits that genuinely taste pretty close to the real thing. Not to mention two years of research, testing, events and infinite conversations. And, so, with Umbrella, she’s not only investing in a great zero-proof beverage program for sober appeal, but robust mocktails for all. Proclaims Paradise: “We want this to be the best beverage program in Raleigh, whether you drink or not.”
Get to know Christian Gibbs, the talented bartender creating craveworthy concoctions at The Haymaker.
Raleigh local Christian Gibbs has made a name for himself mixing up fab drinks via hip, cozy + stylish Fayetteville Street watering hole The Haymaker. Don’t miss him showcasing those skills at our inaugural The Cocktail Classic, presented by The Exchange Raleigh, Nov. 18, at Killjoy. And if you’re a big fan, be sure to vote for him as our 2023 Bartender of the Year (!).
Cast your vote now through Dec. 15, and see his master cocktail making at The Cocktail Classic this weekend—just be sure to grab a ticket before they run out!
Meet fab mixologist Zoë Palmer, our Best Bartender nom found shakin’ up sensational sips at Fox Liquor Bar.
Zoë Palmer, who made her move to the South from Massachusetts, is a cocktail-making force to be reckoned with. The master mixologist is set to rep the recently reopened Ashley Christensen-owned sip spot, Fox Liquor Bar, at our inaugural Cocktail Classic, presented by The Exchange Raleigh, Nov. 18 at Killjoy. And catch her in the running for the highly coveted title of 2023 Bartender of the Year. (Watch out, Colby Kress!)
Want her to win it all? Cast your vote now through Dec. 15, and see her talent for yourself at the Cocktail Classic—grab a ticket before they’re gone! Cheers!
