How to order wine at a restaurant—and appear like you know what you’re doing.
“…And here is out wine list.” Though a simple statement, it can inspire anxiety when picking out a glass or bottle at a restaurant— but this shouldn’t be the case.
“It’s about discovery, not intimidation,” emphasizes Doreen Colondres, wine educator and founder of Vitis House. The easiest route to a confident, smart select is a sommelier— and, thankfully, the days of stuffy, dismissive vino experts are over. “Sommeliers love to introduce people to new favorites,” ensures Colondres. “It’s like matchmaking!”
Sans sommelier, Colondres’ rule of thumb is opting for varietals from countries with long winemaking histories—and avoiding cheap bottles from those with less experience (think: Chile, Australia and the States). And don’t feel pressured to use wine lingo, maintains Colondres—if you know your price and preferences, your server will be able to take care of you, no buzzwords necessary.
So, for the next time that daunting phone book-thick wine list is dropped off, we tapped Colondres to uncork alternatives to the panic picks.
Price Point Sweet Spot?
Usually between $18 and $30 a bottle. You can find incredible quality from regions that aren’t necessarily on the mainstream radar yet—places like Portugal, Croatia, Greece, parts of Spain, Argentina, and even lesser-known French and Italian appellations. Of course, prices can vary widely depending on the grape, the region’s prestige and how the wine is made. But you don’t have to spend a fortune to drink well.
Pairing Hacks?
Don’t just think about the protein—focus on the sauce, spices and how the dish is cooked. One of my best tips? Eat and drink in the same locale—pairing wine with food from the same region is almost always a win. Also, acidity in wine is your best friend—it brightens the palate and cuts through richness, salt or fat. Don’t be afraid to break the rules! Bubbles, rosé or orange with steak, or red wine with fish can be amazing. Just watch out for heat: If it’s spicy, reach for something with a touch of sweetness to cool it down.
Glass or Bottle?
If you’re exploring or unsure, by the glass is a great way to try something special without the full commitment—and it lets you taste a few different styles. Keep in mind premium wines by the glass are often marked up more to offset waste. That said, don’t be shy—if the wine smells off or seems corked, you can absolutely send it back, just like you would with a bottle.
When Is a Bottle the Move?
If you’re with friends and open to sharing— it’s usually a better value and gives you more time to enjoy how the wine evolves in the glass. Sometimes, a bottle really is the smarter splurge.
Among Wine Countries, What’s the Must-Have Bottle—and Most Budget-Friendly?
Spain is definitely having a moment, and, honestly, it deserves the spotlight. From elegant reds to sparkling cava—even volcanic wines from the Canary Islands— the quality-to-price ratio is hard to beat. Greece, Croatia, and Italian islands like Sicily and Sardinia are also hidden gems offering ancient varieties full of character at great value. And if you’re in the mood to venture off the beaten path, Hungary and Austria are packed with delicious surprises. … As I always say: One life isn’t enough to taste all the grapes in the world, so why not try something new every now and then?
Vibes are on high at the long-awaited Madre—now officially open in Smoky Hollow. Helmed by powerhouse trio Tyler Helikson, Brad Shoff and Celina Salinas, the Mediterranean oasis serves up small plates and community via a space intentionally designed for “serendipitous friend-making,” says Helikson. An homage to mothers (hence Madre)—with a lean into the coastal Mediterranean region that inspired it—the elevated cool come-as-you-are concept is the first locally owned restaurant of this scale to open Downtown since 2017 (think Vidrio, Brewery Bhavana). And with it comes the next era of modern dining—and exactly what Raleigh needs right now: a space intentionally designed for all walks of life for any occasion, from the experience to the ambiance to the bites and bevs. madreraleigh.com
Meet me at Madre. It just rolls off the tongue. It’s the kind of thing you’d say to your mom (aka “madre”), your SO, your bestie or your business partner. Or to no one at all as you fly solo. And that’s exactly the point.
Classy. Sophisticated. Elevated. The first full-service locally conceived and owned restaurant to drop in Smoky Hollow—and the first concept of this scale to drop in Raleigh since Brewery Bhavana—Madre will bring an unparalleled flair from some of the most brilliant minds in the hospitality industry, led by trio Tyler Helikson, aka Happy + Hale CEO/co-founder and man about town; his business-savvy best friend of almost three decades, Brad Shoff; and former Barcelona Wine Bar GM Celina Salinas, who will be running day-to-day operations. “This is the best assembled team I’ve ever seen in this industry in this town,” says Helikson.
To start, there’s the design, intentionally fashioned by master Lead Designer Bryan Costello “to create opportunities for serendipitous friend-making,” says Helikson. The heartbeat of the ~100-seat space from which the rest of the restaurant’s energy and liveliness will emanate is the captivating horseshoe-shaped bar—“which was really important for us to increase the odds of socializing,” he adds—aglow beneath a striking double-tiered canopy.
A vibey candlelit and dried-botanical-dotted windowside lounge adjacent to the bar overlooks the patio. Encased by two breeze-block walls, the living room-like first-come first-serve full-service space with loungey seating and coffee table enhances ops for mingling. “It’s cool because you could be sitting with strangers—share a cocktail, a laugh, a conversation—and by the end of the night, you could become friends,” says Helikson.
Meeting the challenge of making the massive space feel intimate and cozy—so big-city dining meets your mom’s house energy—it’s sectioned off so no portion feels too cavernous. Two reservation-only tables flanking each side of the bar serve as cozy cubbies for convo, and Earthen finishes throughout create curves to soften the space. “Bryan really touched on all the senses to give an energy you can feel the minute you open the door,” says Helikson. For the designer behind such aesthetic masterpieces as Heights House, “designing Madre has been about going all-in to set the scene and inviting people in to be a part of it,” says Costello. “We’re building our own little world in there. It’s a little piece of theater, and I’m really looking forward to opening night.”
“Designing Madre has been about going all in to set the scene and inviting people in to be a part of it. We’re building our own little world in there. It’s a little piece of theater, and I’m really looking forward to opening night.”
—Bryan Costello
From left: Tyler Helikson, Co-owner: 20 years in Raleigh, CEO + co-founder of Happy + Hale; Brad Shoff, Co-owner: Spent last 15 years in the finance industry; Bryan Costello, Lead designer: Studio Costello; Celina Salinas, Co-owner + operating partner: Former GM of Barcelona Wine Bar; Mara Sudol, Bar lead: Formerly of Tazza Kitchen fame; Jarrad Gwaltney, Executive chef: Of San Antonio’s Boiler House fame; Red Brewer, Assistant GM: Manager under Celina at Barcelona Wine Bar (Albright Studio)
Promising to be the Hollow hang, the patio will straight transport you with its Mediterranean garden feel via climbing jasmine, fig and olive trees, and background beats. Peppered with 10 to 15 tables, the alfresco affair leans Euro piazza, with an additional smaller outdoor lounge space with lower loungers for cocktails and snacks—think “great people-watching, comfortable, while-you-wait vibe,” says Helikson.
At its core, Madres sits at the intersection of bar and restaurant, casual and fine dining—exactly what Raleigh arguably lacks. Madre doesn’t fit in a box. Madre is enthralling, edgy, elevated, adventurous, spontaneous. And she will surprise you. The fresh protein-, seafood- and veggie-forward rotating menu by San Antonio-transplant renowned executive chef Jarrad Gwaltney leans coastal Mediterranean plates for sharing, natch, repping the regions of Portugal, Spain, Italy, France—even reaching for inspo from North Africa. “Think bright flavors—and really letting ingredients speak for themselves,” says Helikson. A boards section will bring charcuterie and cheese to whet (or sate) the appetite. And—so Euro—a pintxos section (aka “small snacks”) serves up food sans the need for knife and fork, a perfect bite for the wait or even while you play cards or work.
And of course cheers are in order via 10-ish signature cocktails imagined by bar lead and craft cocktailier Mara Sudol of Tazza fame. (Find us pinkies out in the Hollow a la The White Lotus’ Harper with that Aperol Spritz.) Both old and new world wines and sparklings will woo you, as will local brews. And the inventive vermouth on draft will have you talking—and checking yourself to see if you’re in Raleigh or at a Madrid tapas spot. “Vermouth on ice with an orange, a little sparkling water—it’s absolutely delicious,” says Helikson.
Shooting to tentatively open to the public Thursday, June 29, Madre encapsulates exactly what Raleigh needs right now—a space intentionally designed for all walks of life for any occasion. From the experience to the ambiance to the bites and bevs, “it’s all about shareability,” says Helikson. So meet me at Madre? I’ll be perched on a stool at the bar.
