Take our city’s storied culinary powerhouse Angus Barn. “In 1970, you couldn’t go to Angus Barn without a jacket and tie on,” reflects a longtime patron of the dining room (note the Turkey Lounge is a whole different animal). “Fine-dining meant fine clothes too. To me, it was like going to church—you had to have on your Sunday best.”
While the Barn hasn’t required coats in years, that doesn’t mean they dropped a dress code altogether. “The current code is the same as pre-pandemic. It hasn’t changed,” according to Angus Barn, of its ”as nice as you like or business casual” policy. But in a society growing ever more casual, hence the polite reminder on their website that “we are reinstating our dress code.”
But as the Barn holds fast to its dress code, many other establishments are loosening (or lacking) one altogether—or even encouraging diners to come casual. Take stylish longtime Raleigh standout Margaux’s, whose website flat encourages showing up in “your most relaxed outfit.”
Then there’s quirky “come-as-you-are” Stanbury, purposefully pairing its elevated plates with any kind of attire. “We don’t have a dress code,” says owner Joseph Jeffers of the approachable environs. “It’s more eclectic and what people are comfortable in—we might have a table of people in tuxedos with someone in jean shorts at the table beside them. We like for it to be something for everybody and want people to be able to drop in on a whim.”
But it goes beyond your clothing. In a society seeking to fit in, the debate is also about assimilating with other diners. “There’s a desire to fit in [when dining out]—but you don’t want to feel overdressed either,” shares one seasoned diner. “If I was at East End Bistrot or somewhere similar and saw someone wearing gym clothes, I might wonder what they were doing there—but it wouldn’t affect my experience.”
That said, East End Bistrot’s executive chef William D’Auvray notes the establishment doesn’t dictate a dress code on purpose. “We like for people to come in what they deem appropriate,” he says. “If people ask, we say business casual to let them know a coat and tie are not required. Ultimately, it’s about the experience—being offended by what someone else is wearing is archaic to me.”
In querying dozens of Raleigh diners, the take is divided. Many applaud the evolution toward casual clothing: “Dress codes are antiquated and only end up confusing or excluding people,” says one local diner. “You shouldn’t have to wear a suit and tie to get a great meal.”
But there are dissenters who prefer they—and those around them—fit the vibe in terms of apparel. “If you’re out for dinner while sitting next to people dripping from the gym, the food doesn’t taste as good,” laments another regular restaurantgoer we spoke to. “You feel like you got ready for a special occasion—and the lazy apparel of others kills that buzz.”
Concurs another: “Others’ dress definitely has an effect on restaurant experience. What you’re wearing should fit the vibe. If the space is elevated, the people who fill the space should also be elevated.” Clearly, dining dress—and expectations—continues to evolve, with perspectives all over the map. Looks like only time will tell what patrons might don for dinner in 2035.
Get your fill of empanadas at these Raleigh spots.
“I got a pocket, got a pocketful of sunshine…” Empanadas—aka those half-moon-shaped pastries stuffed with a variety of sweet and savory flavors—are having a moment. From spiced beef to sweet corn to bacon and eggs, Raleigh has no shortage of tasty pies just as good on the go as at a sit-down meal with a marg. Say less. Here, handpicked local spots to up your snack game.
The Arepa Bar “It’s always better when we’re together.” … For a match made in heaven, choose your own duo of fillings via the authentic Better Together Corn Empanadas. It’s corn! @thearepabar
Che Empanadas For a little slice of Argentina, bite into pocket-size joy—er, any of Che’s flavor-filled empanadas (think al pastor, shepherd’s pie, potato knish…). Chimichurri dipping sauce on the side, natch. @che_empanadas_nc
Mike’s Nice Empanadas What’s in your pocket? If it’s not this authentic food truck’s Boricua, Pollo Loco, birria or cheese empanada (or, heck, all of the above), you’re doing it wrong. @mikeniceempanadas
Makus Empanadas When Harry Styles said “you’re so golden,” he was def talking about these bad boys, filled with everything from beef to chicken to pork chimichurri to sweet corn. @makusempanadas
Taco Bamba By night, fulfill the “American Dream” via a carne asada flavor bomb, and, by morning, dive into the B.E.C. with fancy sauce. Iggy Azalea would surely approve. @tacobamba
Pana’s Flavor Proudly the “biggest empanada in the Triangle,” your choice of chicken, beef or cheese is packed to the brim into a soft pastry shell—making for a massive flavor bomb (!). @panasflavor
For all of you longing for patio season amid the arctic blast we’ve endured, we feel you. Fortunately, Raleigh is lucky to have a host of bars and restaurants with heated patios across town—from former RM Best Bar Patio winners (stay tuned for the reveal of our latest class Jan. 30!) to hot dives serving up liquor blankets to cozy outdoor oases that channel a warm summer day and more. Here, where the Raleigh Mag team is warming our souls—literally.
“I was born for patio life. Find me poolside at Mulino, pinky out a la The White Lotus in Sicily—but swap the Aperol Spritz for a floral Hugo Spritz upgrade. Trust me—so fresh. Or East End Bistrot… the tiered-level tables dotted among dense lush greenery feels like a hidden urban jungle. Patio paradise.” —Melissa Howsam, Editor-in-Chief, @mahowsam
“With its massive tent and heaters, Mulino’s patio literally feels like a warm summer day—which is exactly what I daydream about when the temps hit below freezing.” —Lauren Kruchten, Associate Editor, @laurenn_nicol
“I am a Gringo A Go Go girly through and through—so their heated patio scores my pick! Enjoying a burrito alfresco in the winter? Pure bliss.” —Anna Beth Adcock, Editorial Assistant, @_annabethadcock
“My fave is Barcelona Wine Bar! It’s always much easier to get a table outside, and it’s also a great place for people watching!” —Heidi Reid, Contributing Writer
Surge pricing is expected to ~surge~ in the restaurant industry.
You may have heard of—or even visited—Berliner Republik in Berlin, a pub boasting a “beer stock exchange” where the price of beer fluctuates based on demand. At this spot, the sky’s the limit for what you might pay to sip a popular brew during peak hours, making seats at the bar a must in the event a “stock market crash” tanks prices for a short period of time.
The German watering hole attracts tourists from all over the world—and, yet, its concept isn’t all that unique given more and more restaurants have adopted a dynamic pricing model as they contend with the elasticity of demand across the industry. Think of it like Uber surge pricing, but for food and drink—and chances are you’ve experienced it firsthand if you’ve ever been charged more for dinner at 7pm versus 5pm, or paid a fee just to secure a brunch reservation.
“I think restaurateurs are looking for ways to battle inflation,” says Trophy Brewing co-owner Chris Powers. Not to mention deal with labor shortages, supply chain issues—the list goes on… “The pros are you can steer customers to slower days, and you can make more money at busier times when your restaurant is in demand.”
The dynamic pricing model—which is expected to, well, surge in the coming years—has the potential to help restaurants thrive and maintain some control over their bottom line. “The purchasing aspect of the business we’re in right now is just so up in the air that it really does make sense to look to the future and see what kind of ways you can maximize revenue,” says Union Special owner/baker Andrew Ullom.
Though he’s quick to admit his own restaurant doesn’t have the capacity to set up dynamic pricing given its first-come, first-served system, “I think for restaurants on the reservation model and the dine-in model, it does make sense,” he shares. “At St. Roch or Crawford and Son, I think something like that could take hold. … It’s not a bad idea to take a stab at it.”
The flipside: For consumers already leery of surcharges and the feeling of getting nickeled and dimed to death, the demand-based concept may not take hold. “Guest perception could hurt business,” says Powers, “and dynamic pricing options are an add-on service with some POS.” Ullom notes previous attempts by some to add automatic gratuities or service fees onto tickets in Raleigh—“and that went over like a lead balloon,” he quips.
Ultimately, time will tell if—and when—the trend takes hold locally. As Ullom explains, “Raleigh’s market is still pretty tight-knit and still pretty small. I think everyone right now is doing everything we can to just get folks in the door.”
If it does gain traction, it’s crucial restaurants are upfront with customers about any changes in cost. “I have already heard of other places dipping their toes into it, and I haven’t heard many folks complain about it,” says Powers. “I think transparency of what is happening is very important and can help anyone considering dynamic pricing avoid angering any guests.” We’ll certainly prost to that.
Far East fare is taking our city—and country—by storm.
Asian food is having a moment. With new creative and elevated Far East concepts consistently popping up around the area in droves (see: Tamasha, SAAP, M Test Kitchen, and Heirloom’s new Asian-inspired dinner menu), along with thriving spots boasting years of seasoning—we see you, Brewery Bhavana (and its upcoming Fenton outpost), Bida Manda, Red Dragon, Sono and Five Star—the cuisine is writing a new name for itself.
Before this relatively recent boon of elevated Asian concepts, diners seeking a fancy meal might have elected for dinner at a steakhouse rather than the oft more casual Asian option, which typically conjures images of takeout boxes and casual surrounds. In essence, elevated restaurants have long lacked diversity in terms of menu and clientele. Until now. (This isn’t an attack on low-key Asian. In fact, I love all types of Asian fare, frequent unassuming hole-in-the-wall eateries and even resided in Bangkok for nearly a year where the tantalizing street fare and captivating casual-yet-quality eats abounded—hey, Jay Fai!)
But we can’t deny the shortage of local choices. Our city has long lacked elevated Asian options—aside from Raleigh’s inaugural Japanese sushi outpost, Kanki, serving patrons a full sit-down meal experience with a show since 1972, and the circa-1987 Imperial Garden Restaurant, touting a claim to fame as the Triangle’s OG authentic Chinese eatery.
Now, Far East cuisine seems to be shifting itself into a new era on the foodie scene across the country, with more and more sophisticated concepts popping up and piquing interest all over. This is something the talent behind Tamasha, Raleigh’s first elevated Indian restaurant, noticed and capitalized on through their just-opened concept.
“We feel like Raleigh is ready for a big city-type of restaurant with the glitz and bling you might see in Vegas,” shares Tina Vora on why she and her team decided to debut the luxe—and Michelin-chef helmed—North Hills spot. Adds partner Mike Kathrani: “[Indian food] is one of the most complex foods, and we have seen that the whole gamut of Indian food hasn’t yet been presented to America.”
To wit, the public is craving more and more authentic and diverse food options. “Demand is growing,” shares Sunny Lin, co-owner of MOFU Shoppe, which also nabbed the season six win of Food Network’s The Great Food Truck Race. “Maybe it’s because people have discovered Chinese food isn’t just orange chicken; Vietnamese food isn’t just pho; and Thai food isn’t just pad thai. Globalization is being reflected in people’s palates now.”
Echoing that sentiment is local culinary luminary Lon Bounsanga, who recently bowed Laotian restaurant SAAP. “Successful restaurants create room for more such restaurants,” says the longtime Bida Manda/Brewery Bhavana chef. “As the Asian restaurant scene evolves, smaller Asian countries are seeing their cuisine and culture showcased. Diners are learning that, although ingredients are shared, each cuisine has its own story.”
Translation, the broad cuisine category is (finally) getting the hype and hoopla it’s always deserved. Move over, steakhouses and boujee Italian restaurants—it’s Far East fare’s time to shine.
Heirloom photo by Anna Phommavong
Flavor Profiles by Region
Asian food cannot be grouped into a single category—each region offers vastly rich and diverse flavors, dishes and styles. Here, a quick (noncomprehensive!) breakdown of a few Asian cuisine categories.
▪ Chinese: Salty, spicy, sour, sweet and bitter. Think: soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic and scallion flavors ▪ Japanese: Artistic, exact textures and temperatures, and savory. Think: seafood, tempura, ramen, miso soup ▪ Korean: Flavorful, fiery and fermented. Think: kimchi, Korean BBQ, chile powder and sesame ▪ Southeast Asian: Salty, sweet, spicy, sour and fresh—all in perfect balance. Think: tropical fruits, veggies, lemongrass, Thai basil and lime ▪ South Asian: Spicy, creamy and full of flavor. Think: turmeric, lentils, peas, beans and curry leaves
