Lobera bringing casual yet authentic Mexican eats to Hillsborough Street.
For those who already miss the Mexican eats coming out of Gonza’s former Hillsborough Street location, we’ve got some good news. Family- and NCSU alumni-owned tacos and tequila spot Lobera is opening in its place later this summer, bringing with it a newfound taste of Mexico to Raleigh. … So, something to ~taco~ bout indeed.
Translating to “the place where all the wolves gather” (get it?) in Spanish, Lobera will indeed be a hot spot for those looking to spice up traditional Mexican fare with contemporary twists across lunch, dinner and brunch. Think unique tacos, natch, in addition to classic Tex-Mex dishes like ACP, enchiladas and burritos, not to mention creative standouts like birria ramen and Mexican-inspired sushi, the latter of which is all the rage in Mexico.
As far as drinks, you can bet margaritas will be a menu mainstay, with seasonal tequila-based cocktails to boot. Expect tropical influences in the summertime and fall-forward flavors once the temps cool—with classics always on offer.
“We’re grabbing influence from modern-day Mexico City,” says partner Minerva Llamas, whose family of restaurant vets owns 20+ other restaurants in the Southeast. “It’s such a cultural hub of modern Mexican culture, but also international influences as a major cosmopolitan city—there will be something for everyone.”
Undergoing a reno to elicit a more casual-elevated approach—influenced by what Llamas sees in her visits to Mexico City—expect that authentic essence of Mexico to be mirrored in the vibey, hip, welcoming interior.
And, as a Pack alumna, you can bet she hopes to integrate Lobera as a literal place the wolves gather and into the local community on Hillsborough Street—from hosting game day watch parties and fundraisers to eventually incorporating art from local college students.
“We are incredibly excited to join the community. It’s such a wonderful opportunity to be part of Hillsborough Street, and we’re going to work hard to become a social and cultural hub. We want Lobera to be a warm and inviting space for all.”
After first dipping his toes into the Triangle food scene via successful Fenton spot Superica, the celeb chef is expanding his reach to Raleigh Iron Works and once again blessing us—this time with his already-thriving Tex-Mex concept. Centered around “al carbon” wood-roasted cooking, the highly anticipated spot will serve an array of droolworthy staples such as al carbon—naturally—plus traditional street-style tacos, fresh salsas and handmade tortillas to boot.
Ford says RIW is the perfect home for the popular restaurant, slated to bow in 2024. “The property is fresh, innovative and visionary—and well-positioned between several growing parts of the city,” he said in an exclusive chat with Raleigh Magazine this week. “Plus, we’re thrilled to be neighbors with talented friends like Brodeto, Eastcut Sandwiches and Andia’s Ice Cream, to name a few. We can’t wait for Little Rey to become part of the Triangle community.”
To complement the fiery menu, a variety of soft-serve ice cream flavors (tres leches! salty cajeta and fried peanuts!) await—or diners looking to sweeten the experience can also tuck into the concept’s cult-fave pancakes with buttermilk syrup.
Thirsty? Enter the impressive beverage program. Masterminded by beverage VP Eduardo Porto Carreiro, the drinks will pair perfectly with the flavors of the fare. Toast to the tantalizing Tex-Mex morsels with an on-the-rocks marg or crack open a Mexican beer from the scad of handselected local and regional craft ales a la the convenient reach-in cooler.
Impressive in both scope and scale, the expansive counter-service taco spot sprawls across 3,100 square feet via indoor and patio seating, with a walk-up to-go window affectionately dubbed Uno Mas. More casual than its Cary-based cousin, the resto exudes relaxation and zest via its rose pink, deep blue and sage color palette; old-fashioned handpainted signs; and Waylon & Willie songs on the queue. And be sure to peep vintage Mexican mementos and standout art compliments of a curated collection decorating the dining room.
“I’m excited about [Little Rey] because I eat it all the time,” said Ford on that prophetic podcast episode, hinting it would one day come to Raleigh. He adds now: “I love the Raleigh area and have wanted to introduce Little Rey here since we opened its big sis Superica in Cary last year. I think the city will enjoy our casual vibe, friendly service, street-style al carbon tacos and cold margs—and we can’t wait to serve them soon.” … We love a full-circle moment. Give us mas!
¡A huevo! Whatever you thought you knew about Tex Mex fare is about to change—in the best way. Say hola to Fenton’s newest highly anticipated restaurant, Superica by celeb chef Ford Fry! The venerated (real) Tex-Mex restaurant—which got its start in Atlanta and now boasts 10 locations—is an homage to Fry’s Texas roots and his food memories there, with a menu focused on what he dubs “Tex-Mex playbook classics.” Think crispy beef tacos; cheese enchiladas with San Antonio-style chili gravy; queso fundido; and elevated dishes like wood-grilled fajitas, posole and ceviche—NTM brunch selects like huevos rancheros, tamales and eggs, and hot cakes.
In front of the opening, Fry flew in this weekend to give us a sneak peek, chat what’s behind his resto names (and how to say them)—and what might be next for him in Raleigh. Tune into our podcast, episode 29, dropping Sept. 27, to eavesdrop on this candid convo.
On Superica, he says: “We are excited to join the Fenton development and are looking forward to bringing flavors inspired by Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurants in the South to the Cary community.”
And, of course, you can’t do Tex-Mex without drinks. Find beer, wine, margaritas aplenty (we’re eyeing The Tempest: a mix of tequila, mezcal, triple sec, agave nectar, fresh lime juice and Cowboy Gringo hot sauce!), and other refreshing cocktails made with Texas-made spirits and agave spirits.
Superica’s atmosphere will complement the overall Tex-Mex theme as well. Designed in conjunction with Smith Hanes (who also designed other Superica locations around the South), the new location boasts a colorful, energetic vibe reminiscent of Texas dance halls with a mix of unique artwork and vintage elements—and a spacious outdoor patio to boot (!).
“The atmosphere of the Old West has been preserved for the enjoyment of all guests,” says Fry, “and we want Superica to be a place where people can come with their friends and have a good time while enjoying the flavors and vibe of an old Texas dance hall or cafe.” Bienvenidos!
The highly anticipated development redrafts the mixed-use blueprint by putting food & bev first.
At first, M Sushi owner Michael Lee turned down an invitation to expand to the Fenton mega-development in east Cary. In fact, Lee and his wife declined several overtures.
But Scott Crawford—whose Crawford Brothers Steakhouse was among the first restaurants announced for the 92-acre site—helped convince him.
“When Scott Crawford gave us more details about all the restaurants [planned for Fenton], he basically told us he approved it, and I thought there must be a good reason why,” says Lee.
That buy-in from local chefs like Lee—formerly chef-owner of Sono Sushi in Raleigh and now the owner of Durham’s highly acclaimed M Restaurants—and hometown favorite Crawford is the cornerstone of Fenton’s development plan.
“If someone was developing a retail project 20 or 30 years ago, you would’ve led with department stores,” explains Paul Zarian, managing director at global real estate firm Hines, codeveloper of the massive development. “Food definitely serves as an anchor tenant with Fenton. They were some of the first leases that we signed. They establish what the brand is for the project.”
Food excites people most, says Zarian, and it also creates demand for Fenton’s other uses—retail, office space, residential units and hotels. Less than half of the site alongside I-40 and WakeMed Soccer Park is currently under construction, with more phases planned over the next decade, but food and beverage tenants are heavily concentrated on the front end on purpose, says Zarian.
Most similar projects don’t revolve around food, at least not historically. After all, we’re not meeting up at the food court over Panda Express and Sbarro anymore. That’s part of the reason Lee didn’t see the benefits until visiting a similar Hines project in Alpharetta, which is essentially the Cary of the Atlanta metro.
“There was not much we could think of for why we shouldn’t other than that it was a mall-style development, but taking the trip changed our minds drastically,” says Lee.
The closest local comparison is arguably North Hills, where establishments like Rosewater Kitchen & Bar and Level7 Rooftop Bar make Midtown much more than a classic mall or even your average mixed-use project. Hines’ decision to focus on food first at Fenton—driven by the company’s success with similar investments elsewhere—suggests what could be the establishment of a new norm.
When Fenton opens in April, Lee’s M Sushi—recently named one of OpenTable’s 100 Best Restaurants in the nation—will be among its primary attractions. Lee will also run a small M Test Kitchen there, a space for staff to experiment where they’re “not confined by any type of specific concepts or cuisines,” says Lee (though it will also operate as a full-service restaurant and bar). That could easily make it a destination, even for his Durham faithful.
The two businesses will be in good company. Dram & Draught, a Raleigh MagBest Overall Bar winner for four years running, will open its fifth location in the development (with a sweet seven total slated to be open across NC by 2022’s end, including one in Wilmington). Co-owner Kevin Barrett says Dram & Draught Fenton will include a covered rooftop bar and a lunch-focused full food menu. It’s only a short drive from Dram’s original Downtown Raleigh digs, but “Cary is a different market than Raleigh,” says Barrett—and they’ll be in good company.
“When we heard our friends Scott Crawford and Mike Lee were planning to go there, we were sold,” he says. “We couldn’t pass up an opportunity to be neighbors with two world-class operators like them.”
Plus, Dram co-owner Drew Schenck lives in Cary, and Fenton is actually “a bit of a ‘coming home’ for me,” he says. He owned and opened Remington Grill in Cary in 1993, and opened RallyPoint Sport Grill in 2009 (both are still open under new ownership), so Dram & Draught Fenton will be his third Cary establishment.
“Cary has grown and continues to grow in positive and exciting ways,” adds Barrett. “And Fenton is a location that is capable of changing consumer habits and patterns.”
Indigo Road Hospitality Group—the folks behind Raleigh’s Oak Steakhouse and O-Ku Sushi—will be in the mix too, as the company expands its Italian restaurant Colletta to Fenton. And, of course, prolific Raleigh restaurateur Crawford will be representing the home team as well. These big draws will be buttressed by a range of regional offerings, including a Crú Food & Wine Bar, Honeysuckle Gelato, sports bar and social club Sports & Social, and celebrity chef Ford Fry’s acclaimed Tex-Mex restaurant Superica.
For Houston-raised and Atlanta-based chef and cookbook author Fry, bringing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica to Fenton is a chance to plant a flag in the Triangle. He fell for the area while visiting for tennis tournaments with his son and hopes success at Fenton will snowball into more locations in Raleigh and Durham. So far, the available restaurant spaces he’s seen here were too small for Superica, which, of his dozen restaurant concepts, is one of only two to expand to additional locations (the other being famed The Optimist).
“The goal altogether was: Let’s do Superica throughout the Southeast,” says Fry. “I just felt that Tex-Mex was really lacking in the Southeast. And the Triangle is just cool.” He adds: “Or maybe it’s a square, with Cary.”
Working with the people behind Fenton on their Alpharetta development gave Fry a level of trust in the project, but it’s more about being surrounded by the right restaurant tenants, he says.
“The No. 1 piece is that it’s sort of all local operators and not many chains,” he says. “Scott [Crawford] excites me the most in all of this. It’s more about a general dining district that’s curated and that I can trust.”
Lee uses the word “curated” too. “Definitely the biggest seller for us was the fact that they came to us and said the plan was to do all local chefs and restaurateurs,” he says. Lee also likes how centrally located Fenton is in the Triangle, but proximity to Fry, Crawford and Charleston-based Indigo Road founder Steve Palmer is the real draw. It’s also the big names in hospitality who will pull customers in.
“We wouldn’t be where we are without Scott [Crawford],” says Zarian. “The same goes for all four of those chefs—Scott, Steve Palmer, Ford Fry, Mike Lee. But Scott was the local ambassador.”
