The secret recipe behind Raleigh’s longest-running restaurants
There’s no shortage of splashy restaurant openings—and closings—in Raleigh. Concepts that burn bright but disappear just as quickly, leaving gutted spaces vacant for years or a steady stream of businesses that come and go at a dizzying pace. It’s a sure sign that Oak City is accustomed to the new and next, always waiting for a fresh hot spot to come onto the scene.
The Mecca Restaurant
But tucked among the city’s constant reinvention are tried-and-true spots—surviving wars, economic turmoil and pandemics while proudly serving Raleigh residents and visitors for decades. So what’s their secret?
The answer isn’t luck. It’s a combination of relentless consistency, adaptation and resisting fads—never wavering from exactly who they are—while upholding the utmost quality in service, food and beverage.
It’s a recipe Players Retreat, which celebrated its 75th anniversary this year, has honed since its opening. “We’ve stayed Players Retreat—the soul of the place has not changed at all,” says owner Richard “Gus” Gusler. “Our role is not to take from the community, but to give back. For us, being a good steward is as important as serving good food.”
It’s that soul that has allowed PR to become a go-to for generations—with an all-welcoming atmosphere, and where the new crop of NC State students may sit in the same barstools as their parents or grandparents. Gusler is also fiercely protective of his customers—and his staff.
The same can be said for Angus Barn, and its wildly popular Wild Turkey Lounge, which has maintained its high standards—and its mission statement: Ensure each and every guest feels like the most important person in the room—since 1960. While decor, uniforms and dishes may change with the times, one thing Big Red never changes is its commitment to making every experience feel personal.
“Those are good old-fashioned values that are sort of slipping away, and people are craving that feeling,” says owner Van Eure, who carried on the legacy from her father and Angus Barn co-founder Thad Eure Jr. “Even if you’re a brand-new person, you feel warmth. It’s almost so simple, but simple is hard.”
To Eure’s point, it’s not enough for a restaurant to come onto the scene with flashy decor and a “chef-curated menu.” Guests want to feel like they matter—and belong. A place where people know your name, greet you with a smile or treat you to something a little extra for a special occasion keeps diners returning time and again.
“Everything is changing so fast, it’s nice to walk into a place that feels like it’s been there forever,” adds The Mecca owner Greg Hatem, who took over the 96-year-old DTR mainstay in 2018 after frequenting the restaurant for years. “It survives because it’s not trendy or new—it’s real. That’s what’s special about it: It’s kind of like going home.”
While customer experience is key, Winston’s Grille owner Wil O’Neal says survival also boils down to great employees—some of whom have been with the circa-1986 restaurant for 30+ years. “Employee retention is the No. 1 challenge most restaurants have,” he emphasizes. “You are nothing without great employees; nothing without great customers.”
Winston’s Grille
And those new restaurants? The old-timers welcome them with open arms. “Competition is good,” says O’Neal. “I encourage people to go out and try things—and I know they’ll come back because they can count on us to have a great experience.”
That said, these restaurants aren’t resting on their laurels—every day they’re doing the work to find ways to be better. It’s not about changing the standards, it’s about improving the customer experience, freshening up the atmosphere and playing with new ingredients. But it always comes back to consistency—and a reputation built on thousands of great memories.
“What we’re being allowed to do is a gift, it’s a public service,” maintains Eure. “We need medical care, but we also need places we can go and have great times. You want to be taken care of—and you never forget when a place makes you feel that way.”
So while new F&B spots will no doubt continue to garner immediate attention from Raleighites, these stalwarts will remain in their regular rotation.
Raleigh’s restaurant scene burns bright—and often burns out.
Standing in the five-hourlong line for one last meal at 42nd St. Oyster Bar—just hours before the nearly century-old seafood and steak institution shuttered for good—it’s never been more clear how deeply these restaurant relics matter to Raleighites, woven into the very fabric and identity of her DNA. And, yet, in a city fueled by growth, change and a constant craving for what’s next, restaurants here often feel more like moments than legacies—sizzling with what’s new while struggling to sustain what lasts.
Still very much a city on the rise, Raleigh’s dining culture reflects that forward momentum: dynamic, experimental and shaped by waves of newcomers. We celebrate restaurant launches with fanfare, flock to the next big thing and, before long, wonder whatever happened to that place we loved. But what we lack is a true celebration of the kind of deep, generational legacies you travel to the likes of New York, New Orleans or even Charleston just to experience.
In these seasoned cities, the community rallies to protect its culinary keepsakes. They’re more than just spots to sample the latest trending dish, ’Gram the newest spritz iteration or tick off a bucket list—and they do so much more than fill seats: fostering lasting connections, serving as the backdrop for stories passed down through generations, and giving locals a sense of belonging that far outlasts the latest trends and headlines, never mind enticing tourists to travel just for a taste. They’re spaces where community roots run deep and identity takes shape, serving as living archives of a city’s evolving story—especially in the face of urban redevelopment and corporatization.
The truth is, these places don’t endure on sentiment alone. If we want to keep them, we have to show up—for more than just the farewell tour. That means choosing the comfort of the familiar over the novelty of the new every now and then, booking the table before it’s too late.
Much like the revered Depression-era fish market-turned-seafood haven 42nd Street, many beloved institutions have faced the same fate—pushed out by rising rents that trade the past for progress. Layer in shifting demographics, mounting development pressure, soaring food costs and evolving tastes, and it’s no wonder we’ve recently lost a wave of mainstays—David’s Dumplings, Mandolin and Mofu Shoppe, among others. That’s the crux of the issue: It’s hard to establish a landmark when the literal ground beneath you is constantly shifting—especially without the support of the very community you’re built to feed.
Juli Leonard
So in a city where the landscape can shift as quickly as the foodie trends, Raleigh restaurants are forced to constantly reinvent themselves to stay alive. But, rarely, a space finds a way to endure without sacrificing its soul. Salvations like Irregardless and Mecca Restaurant prove that preservation rooted in intention can have staying power. In both cases, change of ownership was a deliberate act—a commitment that affirms these aren’t just restaurants, but relics of Raleigh’s soul, sustained by community support and able to serve another set of decades to safeguard the city’s history, recipes and rituals otherwise lost in the churn of development and gentrification.
We’ve witnessed more than our fair share of outward grief and nostalgia for beloved haunts throwing in the towel—yet not enough bookings while they’re open to help them survive. As a result, Raleighites can just about count on one hand the number of eateries that have eclipsed the half-century mark.
Sure, legacy takes time—as do concepts that have legs for decades to come. Multi-Beard-celebrated places like Poole’s (2007) and Crawford and Son (2016) are pillars in their own right that show no signs of slowing—and are the exact kinds of anchors identity can be built on. Perhaps we’re beginning to see the signs of battle-tested fixtures, chefs planting roots, and a community that truly values both trend and tradition.
And, just maybe, Raleigh’s moment-over-legacy mindset isn’t a flaw—but a chapter. A potentially short-sighted one, if we don’t learn to invest in longevity as much as we do in novelty. As our city matures, we may finally be ready to champion not just what’s next, but what lasts. Now, as Raleigh Magazine turns the page on a new decade, we’re more committed than ever to doing our part to extend that narrative—by telling more stories that celebrate staying power and encouraging our community to support it, seat by seat, meal by meal.
Raleigh Anchors
Going strong for 30+ years, these are exceptions in a sea of short-lived concepts or long-loved losses.
Despite new dining and drinking destinations aplenty, a plethora of OGs still hold a soft spot in our hearts—from iconic jazz clubs and hidden gems to hot spots from Hillsborough Street’s glory days. We take your brain down memory lane to test your smarts on some standout Raleigh restaurants and bars. Let the nostalgia commence!
1. Gimme something good! Ryan Adams formed the first version of rock band Whiskeytown in 1994 at which Raleigh restaurant and makeshift music venue?
a. The Comet Lounge b. The Brewery c. Sadlack’s Heroes d. Berkeley Cafe
2. Which fan-fave Hillsborough Street bar devastated locals when it shuttered—and never reopened as promised? a. East Village Grill b. Pantana Bob’s c. The Rockford d. The Green Monkey
3. Here’s to Raleigh restaurant history! What was the first dining/drinking establishment to open on Glenwood South? a. Hibernian Pub b. Cafe Helios c. Mellow Mushroom d. The Rockford
5. To the horror of live music lovers, Hillsborough Street’s iconic The Brewery was demolished in 2011. Which of these bands graced the space during its run? a. Paramore b. Panic! At The Disco c. Phish d. All of the above
6. What famous musician found fame after performing at jazz club Frog and Nightgown in the ’60s—then ended up living in Raleigh for over a decade while working for former Gov. Terry Sanford? a. Betty Carter b. Carol Sloane c. Peggy Lee d. Julie London
7. “I actually saw him read a book without pictures once!” At what local go-to were scenes from the 1988 rom-com Bull Durham filmed? a. Players Retreat b. Winston’s Grille c. Piccola Italia d. Mitch’s Tavern
8. He’s truly living the American dream. During a stop in NC earlier this year, what Raleigh spot did President Joe Biden nosh at with Gov. Roy Cooper? a. Second Empire b. Char-Grill c. Cook Out d. A Place at the Table
9. ~Feline~ fine! Which former live music club was housed in a DTR building boasting a mural of a cat sporting a blazer and a top hat? a. Crowley’s b. The Rialto c. C. Grace d. Neptunes
WEB EXCLUSIVE The April 2021 issue of Raleigh Magazine is on newsstands around town now and should be delivered to your doors and mailboxes in just a couple days! While you wait to get your hands on a copy, take a quick look at some of the stories we have in store.
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No matter what hot new eatery descends on Raleigh, North Raleigh’s Winston’s Grille has stood the test of time—earning its third NCRLA Stars of the Industry Award this year.
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No matter what hot new eatery descends on DTR, North Raleigh’s Winston’s Grille has stood the test of time—earning its third NCRLA Stars of the Industry Award.
When you think of restaurant buzz, you always think of the new shiny toy so to speak—the hottest new resto or chef or location to hit town. And, lucky for that appetite, Raleigh’s got them in spades. But while we clamor at all the James Beard nods and cool eats and digs we can get, it’s not the up-and-comer that’s turning heads for the North Carolina Restaurant and Lodging Association’s annual awards.
Nope. This year’s NCRLA Stars of the Industry Award for restaurateur of the year lands squarely in the laps of the duo behind Winston’s Grille—our steady standby. Somehow, despite sitting at a busy, awkward North Raleigh intersection—and in the face of every new top chef who comes to town or inspired menu that drops—this city staple has managed to stand head and shoulders above the rest. It’s not just any award, but the NCRLA’s top honor.
There are only a handful of Raleigh restaurants that have been around as long as Winston’s Grille. Opened in 1986 by Charles Winston Jr. and Wil O’Neal, the mainstay has become a Raleigh tradition for date night, family meals, business luncheons and dinners—even as a hot spot post hitting the links at nearby North Ridge Country Club—and everything in between. “We are very flattered to be given this award; we’ve been at this for a long time,” Winston says, humbly. “I guess if you do something long enough, you might get lucky like we have.”
This Stars of the Industry Award marks the third consecutive for Winston’s Grille. Longtime manager Roger Carter, who started at the restaurant as a bartender decades ago, was named 2020’s restaurant manager of the year, and Philip Gomes was named 2019’s NC restaurant employee of the year. Beyond the awards, the sheer loyalty of the resto’s staff (think of how many service industry folks you know who stay loyal to one place for years, much less decades—hey, um, maybe never?) speaks to what Winston and O’Neal have created.
Perhaps it’s a nod to a shared vision and true expertise. Winston, who comes from a long legacy of hospitality service (his father, Charles Winston Sr. was the original co-owner of the Angus Barn), and O’Neal have known each other their whole lives. Their parents were good friends, and Winston says O’Neal was always around his house growing up. “Our family considered him my parents’ third son,” Winston says. The pair became partners when O’Neal was managing one of Winston’s father’s restaurants in Greenville.
The two agree that the secret to longevity in the restaurant industry is having a good partner. “The restaurant business brings a lot of ups and downs,” says Winston. Seconds O’Neal: “We’ve always worked as a team with a foundation made of friendship. We’ve helped carry each other along the way.”
Winston adds that his father’s mentorship, especially in the beginning, was priceless, and the advice he imparted on them has been invaluable. Although his dad passed away earlier this year, Winston says his namesake will continue to influence him both personally and professionally.
… And let’s not ignore the gigantic elephant in the room. This top honor is being dished during a pandemic—when many are struggling to merely survive. Despite being forced to close Winston’s Grille for nearly three months (alongside every other resto in town), the restaurateurs survived and, obviously, thrived.
While making plans to reopen safely and keep patrons satiated, Winston and O’Neal continued to pay and provide benefits for their nearly 100 employees—a perk almost unheard of in the restaurant business. “Most of our employees have been with us for decades—some for 30 years—and we knew we had to take care of them,” Winston says.
Meanwhile, the co-owners adjusted Winston’s business model to utilize its large outdoor space upon reopening in June 2020. Anticipating that guests would prefer to sit outside, the co-owners invested in heaters for its token wraparound covered patio. “Heating an outdoor space as big as ours was a challenge, but it was well worth it,” says O’Neal. “The customers loved it, even throughout the cold, wet winter months, so it has been a great asset.”
Considering the average restaurant in America closes within 10 years—a statistic only exacerbated by the devastating year the pandemic dealt the industry—it is quite remarkable that Winston’s Grille has not only remained a Raleigh fave for patrons for 35 years, but continues to turn industry heads and receive top honors.
The savvy duo’s advice to restaurateurs wanting to open a spot of their own? “Take care of your people—both employees and customers,” says O’Neal. “If you do that, they’ll always come back.”
