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A star-studded cast of Raleigh’s industry elite are betting big on Brookside.
The corner of Brookside Drive and Glascock Street has had more lives than most cats. In the past eight-ish years, it’s cycled from Brookside Market & Pizza to Comida y Cocteles—each iteration promising to stick, but none quite pulling it off. Now, an A-team of local hospitality heavyweights is betting this time will be different.
The collective—made up of Cheetie Kumar and Paul Siler of Ajja; Angela Salamanca and Marshall Davis of Mala Pata and Centro; and Justin Pasfield, partner in Locals Seafood, Person Street Bar and Natural Science—has joined forces to bring a new multiconcept day-to-night drinking + dining destination to the space with Big Cat.
“By the neighborhood, for the neighborhood”—so goes its tagline—and the team means it. Kumar and Siler have lived in Mordecai within walking distance of the spot for two decades, while the rest of the crew resides nearby as well.
For the group, the project is personal: a chance to preserve a neighborhood hangout they’d long relied on—and reimagine it in a way that has lasting power. “As it kept changing hands, it just felt sad to think of not coming here to eat or pick up something quick,” reflects Kumar. So when the opportunity presented itself to partner with industry pals, the idea for Big Cat came together naturally.
Part neighborhood tavern, part sandwich counter and part market, Big Cat’s sit-down “tavern”-style restaurant and bar pounced on the scene in late March after a year-plus revamp. Reconfiguring the layout for optimal appeal, the updated space invites via an upgraded concrete patio with curtained awning and a vibey bright-orangeish-red exterior—a can’t-miss pop of color along the Brookside corner.
“For every aspect of this, we’re considering the diverse demographic we have in the neighborhood: age, economic conditions, ethnic diversity,” notes Kumar. “There’s a positive aspect of that, but it’s really hard to please everybody.”
Inside, the food reflects the diversity, collaborative spirit and range of its star-studded team—pulling from their wide-ranging culinary influences. Think global flavors fused with comfort-forward dishes: roasted oysters scented with coconut and lemongrass, a lightly smoked half-chicken sourced from Joyce Farms, za’atar-dusted waffle fries, and big crunchy salads. “When you look at the menu, you’re gonna recognize things,” says Kumar. “But there might be a little twist.”
And the restaurant menu is just the beginning. Still to come is Big Cat’s sandwich counter, deli and market—slated to debut by the end of April. Expect the same globally curious leanings, with handhelds ranging kimchi-topped chopped cheese, banh mi, and Mexican Milanese. Grab-and-go deli staples—like chicken salad (a Garland throwback), hummus, beet tzatziki, and whipped feta—will rotate alongside pantry essentials and prepared foods.
“This is not a grocery store,” maintains Kumar, also teasing future faves like ice cream, fresh-pressed juices, farm-fresh eggs, pre-marinated meats, crackers and bread down the line. Instead, the goal is something more neighborhood-minded: a go-to for grabbing a bottle of wine on the way home, snacks for a get-together, a quick sandwich, or last-minute ingredient. Or, of course, a leisurely dinner that doesn’t demand much—but delivers in spades.
For a corner that’s burned through more than a few of its nine lives, Big Cat may finally be the one that sticks. “I know the neighborhood is really excited,” muses Kumar. And this time, Raleigh looks ready to settle in.
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