Raleigh’s restaurant scene burns bright—and often burns out.
Standing in the five-hourlong line for one last meal at 42nd St. Oyster Bar—just hours before the nearly century-old seafood and steak institution shuttered for good—it’s never been more clear how deeply these restaurant relics matter to Raleighites, woven into the very fabric and identity of her DNA. And, yet, in a city fueled by growth, change and a constant craving for what’s next, restaurants here often feel more like moments than legacies—sizzling with what’s new while struggling to sustain what lasts.
Still very much a city on the rise, Raleigh’s dining culture reflects that forward momentum: dynamic, experimental and shaped by waves of newcomers. We celebrate restaurant launches with fanfare, flock to the next big thing and, before long, wonder whatever happened to that place we loved. But what we lack is a true celebration of the kind of deep, generational legacies you travel to the likes of New York, New Orleans or even Charleston just to experience.
In these seasoned cities, the community rallies to protect its culinary keepsakes. They’re more than just spots to sample the latest trending dish, ’Gram the newest spritz iteration or tick off a bucket list—and they do so much more than fill seats: fostering lasting connections, serving as the backdrop for stories passed down through generations, and giving locals a sense of belonging that far outlasts the latest trends and headlines, never mind enticing tourists to travel just for a taste. They’re spaces where community roots run deep and identity takes shape, serving as living archives of a city’s evolving story—especially in the face of urban redevelopment and corporatization.
The truth is, these places don’t endure on sentiment alone. If we want to keep them, we have to show up—for more than just the farewell tour. That means choosing the comfort of the familiar over the novelty of the new every now and then, booking the table before it’s too late.
Much like the revered Depression-era fish market-turned-seafood haven 42nd Street, many beloved institutions have faced the same fate—pushed out by rising rents that trade the past for progress. Layer in shifting demographics, mounting development pressure, soaring food costs and evolving tastes, and it’s no wonder we’ve recently lost a wave of mainstays—David’s Dumplings, Mandolin and Mofu Shoppe, among others. That’s the crux of the issue: It’s hard to establish a landmark when the literal ground beneath you is constantly shifting—especially without the support of the very community you’re built to feed.
Juli Leonard
So in a city where the landscape can shift as quickly as the foodie trends, Raleigh restaurants are forced to constantly reinvent themselves to stay alive. But, rarely, a space finds a way to endure without sacrificing its soul. Salvations like Irregardless and Mecca Restaurant prove that preservation rooted in intention can have staying power. In both cases, change of ownership was a deliberate act—a commitment that affirms these aren’t just restaurants, but relics of Raleigh’s soul, sustained by community support and able to serve another set of decades to safeguard the city’s history, recipes and rituals otherwise lost in the churn of development and gentrification.
We’ve witnessed more than our fair share of outward grief and nostalgia for beloved haunts throwing in the towel—yet not enough bookings while they’re open to help them survive. As a result, Raleighites can just about count on one hand the number of eateries that have eclipsed the half-century mark.
Sure, legacy takes time—as do concepts that have legs for decades to come. Multi-Beard-celebrated places like Poole’s (2007) and Crawford and Son (2016) are pillars in their own right that show no signs of slowing—and are the exact kinds of anchors identity can be built on. Perhaps we’re beginning to see the signs of battle-tested fixtures, chefs planting roots, and a community that truly values both trend and tradition.
And, just maybe, Raleigh’s moment-over-legacy mindset isn’t a flaw—but a chapter. A potentially short-sighted one, if we don’t learn to invest in longevity as much as we do in novelty. As our city matures, we may finally be ready to champion not just what’s next, but what lasts. Now, as Raleigh Magazine turns the page on a new decade, we’re more committed than ever to doing our part to extend that narrative—by telling more stories that celebrate staying power and encouraging our community to support it, seat by seat, meal by meal.
Raleigh Anchors
Going strong for 30+ years, these are exceptions in a sea of short-lived concepts or long-loved losses.
This summer may not have a clear soundtrack—but she def has a flavor. Meet our spirited boyfriend: Hugo. With its crisp effervescence (hello, prosecco!), a kiss of subtly sweet elderflower and a cooling whisper of mint, the sultry spritz is pure summer in a glass (and the perf anecdote in 100+ degrees). Easy to make at home—and great for the summer bod to boot—not all Hugos are created equal. On my spritz summer tour, I did the hard work for you. Here, a trio of spots you should be sipping the sweet nectar before summer slips to fall.
Dram & Draught Hands down the best Hugo in town—whether cozied up in DTR or kicking back at Fenton—this spot also shakes a riff on the spritz that feels made just for Raleigh in the dog days of summer. Not your run-of-the-mill prosecco-plus-elderflower-mint, the seasonal Spritz & Gigz riff, affectionately crafted by Ross, blends Ketel One Grapefruit Rose, blackberry, lemon, a touch of sugar, basil tincture, soda and prosecco for a floral, fruity twist that still hits all those spritz notes (effervescent, herbaceous, sweet). Basically, you can’t have just one.
La Terrazza Rooftop vibes and spritz goals? Say less. La Terrazza’s Hugo is a classic floral-forward delight, mixing St-Germain, prosecco, club soda, lemon and mint into a light, sunny sipper that tastes like summer—and makes sunset sipping extra sweet.
Wye Hill Sips with a view? Don’t mind if I do. Perched atop Boylan Bridge, Wye Hill pours a skyline-level spritz in Spotless Mind, starring St-Germain elderflower, gin, Italicus bergamot, orange blossom agave, lemon—and bubbles, natch. It’s floral, effervescent, elegant… a spritz sophisticated enough to make me forget all about those spicy margs.
Ahead of our annual must-consume Best Restaurants Issue, we asked our contributors to chew the fat on the best meal they ate in Raleigh this year. With no shortage of star-studded menus, we dug deep to dish up our true standouts. From established staples to newbies setting the foodie scene on fire, these picks promise to have you reaching for your Resy app. And while you wait for the issue to drop, follow us on social, subscribe for doorstep delivery—and get on the list for hot takes and fresh picks between issues. Because trust us: you won’t want to miss a bite.
From grill to glass—Raleigh’s watermelon game goes wild.
“Tastes like strawberries on a summer evening”—that watermelon sugar high is more than sticky chins and spitting seeds at the family picnic. The juicy fruit isn’t just a sweet summer snack—it’s a savory superstar hiding in plain sight. Like Baby in Dirty Dancing, who famously “carried a watermelon,” local chefs here are flipping the script—playing on watermelon’s crisp, refreshing bite in everything from spicy salads and smoky grilled dishes to inventive cocktails and dreamy desserts.
“When we have our mezcal watermelon margarita on the board, the whole neighborhood knows summer is here,” says William & Company owner Lily Ballance. “Everyone sits on our patio with this fragrant and delicious refreshing watermelon pink drink—our favorite drink of the year!”
Packed with hydration and subtle sweetness, the fruit lends itself to endless creativity—even Jubala’s has jumped in with its viral watermelon tonic (read: local heirloom watermelon, yuzu, basil-mint, quinine and “some pretty wild-tasting espresso.”) So, time to rethink watermelon—and taste its surprising versatility—or flex your rind rigour on Watermelon Day Aug. 7 at the State Farmers Market, complete with a NC Watermelon Queen sighting and judging for the state’s largest upward of 300 pounds (!). Whether a dish, drink or hack for spicing up that sweet fruit at home, one thing is certain—Raleigh’s watermelon scene is anything but ordinary.
Photo courtesy of Stanbury
Watermelon Salad | Stanbury Dice watermelon into 1-inch cubes and place in shallow serving bowl. Dice Persian cucumber. Toss cucumbers with nuoc cham* and pour over plated watermelon. Top with torn herbs (mint, Thai basil, cilantro), crushed roasted peanuts**, crispy shallots*** and rice powder****.
*Nuoc cham 1/2 cup lime juice 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup fish sauce 1/4 cup water 1 serrano
Blend all ingredients until smooth. Stir in 1 Tbsp. sambal and two grated garlic cloves.
**Roasted peanuts Toast 1 cup raw peanuts at 350 for 5–10 minutes, until aromatic and golden. Crush with bottom of pan.
***Crispy shallots Toss 1 cup thinly sliced shallots in 1/4 cup cornstarch and fry at 275 till golden brown.
****Toasted rice Bake 1/2 cup jasmine or sticky rice at 350, tossing every 5 mins. until golden, for a total of ~30 mins. Grind in coffee mill until a coarse powder.
2 oz. Mezcal Espadín 2 oz. fresh watermelon Fresca 1/2 oz. agave nectar 3/4 oz. fresh lime juice 2–3 sprigs fresh basil Tajín for rim
Rim glass with Tajín. Combine all ingredients in a shaker and strain over ice. Garnish with watermelon slice and fresh basil sprig.
Photo by Forrest Mason, courtesy of William & Company
Hacks
Spiked Melon Party-ready and Insta-worthy, a spiked melon is the punch bowl glow-up you didn’t know you needed. Hollow, fill (think rosé, sangria or spiked lemonade), chill, serve—done.
Scoops for ’Tails Poolside pour upgrade: Scoop melon balls into your bev as juicy ice cubes or garnish. Freeze ’em for a chill twist. Pro tip? The real buzz lives in the booze-soaked scoops.
Grilled Slices Sweet meets heat—grill thick watermelon slices for 2–3 mins per side (or until caramelized) with olive oil, salt and chile powder for a smoky-sweet char that hits every note.
“Ceviche” Cool, kicky and plant-based—this watermelon ceviche is peak summer in a bowl. Just dice; mix with lime juice, chopped mint, jalapenos and a salt pinch; marinate for 10 mins; and serve chilled.
Popsicles With a Twist Hydrating and backyard-ready—watermelon pops are the new frozen flex. Blend melon with fresh herbs (basil, mint) and a citrus splash, spike if you like (tequila, rum), then freeze overnight in molds.
Editor’s note: Mama Ann Bailey passed away Feb. 16 at the age of 100.
A Raleigh treasure, Mama Ann Bailey’s “get up and go” is still full throttle—living proof that age is just a number, and hers is unlisted. “I always said my middle name was ‘Go’—and I meant it. I didn’t sit still long enough to get old. … I only have one speed: fast, fast, fast. Sitting around just never suited me.”
Turning triple digits in late June, the Bailey’s Fine Jewelry co-founder and Nash County’s first female business owner is taking stock at 100. Thanks to Mama Ann’s grit (read: orphaned at an early age), hustle and razor-sharp business sense—plus a legendary partnership with her late husband Clyde Sr., a master watchmaker—what started as one 11-foot-wide storefront has grown into a five-store NC legacy and LA studio to boot. Clearly, when love and hustle link up, the grind goes golden.
No one builds an empire—or lives a life—like Mama Ann’s without picking up some timeless tea along the way. Here, the centenarian legend shares her tried-and-true truths—straight from the source.
“If the Lord gives you a good day, you better not waste it. I tried to make each day count for something.”
“I never was much of a drinker—I think that helped me make it this far. That and staying out of other people’s business.”
“Back when I used to work, I always said, I get to go to work. Most people complain and say they have to go to work.”
“I’ve always said, ‘I’ll sleep when I’m dead.’ I like to live life to the fullest.”
“I loved the jewelry business, I loved helping customers, and I loved loading our store with beautiful jewelry. I’ve always said you can’t sell for an empty wagon.”
