Join the Club

Join the Club

Former Seattle chef Eric Rivera is bringing a unique pop-up dinner club to Raleigh.

Trying to pigeonhole chef Eric Rivera into one cuisine, one business venture or even one city is like trying to play pin the tail on the donkey—except the donkey is ricocheting around the room. And that’s what makes his new private dining club, Forknife, so intriguing.

Eric Rivera and Emahlea Wilcher
Eric Rivera and Emahlea Wilcher

The invite-only pop-up dinner series launched last month and is featuring two more dinners March 9–17 and March 22–30, with an additional two slated for April as well. Only two reservation slots are available per night, each seating up to six people.

Although events will be based on a theme—such as Puerto Rican BBQ and pasta—no meal will be the same. So, essentially, there’s 50 unique dining experiences to enjoy between February and April alone, with more to come.

“I purposely try to forget,” says Rivera of his ever-changing menus. “I aim to give people flavors they’ve never had.”

Rivera is frank about his process on the Forknife website, which is password protected: “I do not share menus ahead of time, nor will I make a dish that you had that one time at that one place. Let me do my thing please. It’s rad for me, and you’ll all be better off.”

This same unpredictability was the backbone of his former Seattle-based restaurant, Addo, which earned him the title of 2018 Chef of the Year from Eater Seattle. Addo has now morphed into a full-fledged tour, keeping Rivera on the road for the last year. The renegade chef has built quite the following across the country, hosting pop-ups in Los Angeles, New York City, Chicago, Philadelphia, San Francisco, DC, Puerto Rico and Raleigh.

With Raleigh as his new homebase, Rivera’s wayfaring mind is making an extended pitstop in the Triangle, where he plans to open a double concept space—essentially two restaurants in one—later this year. He’s also introducing a delivery-only online market that offers a handful of cooking staples, including his sazon spice blend, hot sauces and dried pasta. 

But if you really want to get to know Rivera, Forknife is a great place to start. He not only cooks but also serves the food, giving guests a chance to chat with the chef in a fun, low-key setting.

“I am presenting food in a chill environment,” says Rivera. “People can come as they are.” So how do you get a seat at Rivera’s table? Send him an email (really) and grab five of your closest friends for a night of good food, good tunes and good vibes.

Dinner Theater

Dinner Theater

Ooh la la. Regal restaurateur Giorgios Bakatsias is opening passion project East End Bistrot in East End Market—and it’s a production, in the best way possible.

Going to a Giorgios Bakatsias restaurant isn’t just “grabbing dinner”—it’s a whole experience. “It’s a play,” says executive chef William D’Auvray, “and you’re not going to see the play until you come to the theater.”

The food, the drinks, the atmosphere and the service all come together to form a perfectly choreographed dance, if you will. And the same rings true for the prolific restaurateur’s newest concept, East End Bistrot, bowing in East End Market early this year.

The dance, of course, starts as soon as you walk through the door. A collaboration with local artists, the restaurant’s regal interior is, in a word, stunning. Inspired by Bakatsias’ pond-jump to Paris at a young age, the design evokes a whimsical sense of “pure joy and romance,” he says. Think bold red walls and gold and black elements serving in contrast to feminine large-scale florals by interior designer (and old friend) Tula Summerford and muralist Arianne Hemlein, a showstopping floor-to-ceiling gold tile wall anchoring the open kitchen, a sizable marble-topped bar, vintage French mirrors, and a host of nostalgic photographs and paintings—all grounded by a classic black-and-white French bistro floor. In essence, très magnifique.

Even the playfully wallpapered bathrooms—also selected by Summerford—are whimsically gorgeous. “Bathrooms can be small but clever little spaces to design,” says Bakatsias. “We like to remind our guests we don’t take ourselves too seriously. We’re here to escape—and enjoy each other!”

Outside, the sashay continues with a spacious garden terrace surrounded by lush greenery (perfect for more casual dining or groups, says Bakatsias) and a Champagne garden touting comfortable lounge seating that’s ideal for wine and cocktails and light bites or dessert before or after dinner.

Ultimately the “sexy French” bistro—as Bakatsias describes it—is “a place to dress up and experience the theater of dinner,” he says. But it’s the opposite of stuffy. Essentially, Bakatsias and D’Auvray (whom Bakatsias has a long history of working with at his restaurants, such as Parizade and Cafe Giorgios), are taking the old-school concept of a formal elevated dining experience and turning it on its head, giving it a modern spin that feels like, well, a fun production. 

The level of service, the food and the wine will naturally remain high, as you’d expect from a Giorgios Group concept. In fact, Bakatsias is hiring a sommelier for East End Bistrot, which alone speaks to the concept’s caliber. As for food, diners can expect succulent seafood selects for which D’Auvray is known (oysters, crudos, raw, cooked, cured, smoked, etc.), plus delicious cuts of meat (chateaubriand, côte de boeuf, lamb—available a la carte with your choice of vegetables), dry-aged in-house and cured with different crusts and the like and presented tableside.

Don’t go looking for apps on the menu, though. Instead, East End Bistrot will feature hors d’oeuvres to up the tasting and sharing experience, says D’Auvray. “Obviously everything here is gonna be as local and organic as possible,” he adds, “but we’re not gonna beat our chest about it; it’s just a standard we have.”

The restaurant’s modern “return to the time-honored classics,” if you will, is fitting for the two seasoned professionals who are coming back together to provide something that’s unique to the area. “East End Bistrot will introduce a luxury dining experience to match Raleigh’s growth and character today,” says Bakatsias. “This is a jewel of a location, and we’re so excited for Raleigh to be part of the discovery.” Let’s dance. eastendbistrotraleigh.com

Buy Small or Bye Small

Buy Small or Bye Small

Support local businesses through Blue Water Spa’s Small Helping Small Program.

“Buy small or bye, bye small.” Cheeni Indian Emporium owner Preeti Waas posted this quote on Instagram on Small Business Saturday, and before you write it off as dramatic, it’s true. Local businesses need your support—every day, not just Small Biz Saturday—as without your support, they’ll go out of business (so, uh, clear that Amazon cart now!—and consider shopping for Christmas gifts locally).

Waas’ powerful post struck a chord with one local business owner in particular, Kile Law of Blue Water Spa, who proceeded to launch a Small Helping Small BWS Program in which Blue Water Spa clients can get $10 off any medical spa service, treatment or product with every $25 spent at Cheeni throughout the month of December. Just bring in your receipt from Cheeni—and there’s no limit to how many receipts you can bring in.

“As the female owner of a small locally owned business, I know the difficulties of running a small business and keeping it open,” says Law. The selfless spa owner also plans to partner with other small businesses throughout the year, with at least one small business partner each month. 

Pro tip: Pop into the North Raleigh resto for lunch or dinner (bonus: Cheeni just started serving alcohol!) and enjoy delish authentic Indian cuisine like masala fries, paneer pav and lamb vindaloo; shop the bazaar for home and food products; then make an appointment for a little self care at BWS. It’s a win-win for everyone. #ShopSmall!

J. Betski’s 2.0

J. Betski’s 2.0

Raleigh’s only German/Polish restaurant is back—and better than ever.

Missed J. Betski’s famed pierogies? Well, you can finally get your fix again, as the treasured Raleigh restaurant has officially reopened at its new home in Highpark Village after shuttering its Seaboard Station location over the summer.

Still at the helm, and in his element in the kitchen, is owner and executive chef John Korzekwinski, who, along with those mouthwatering potato and cheese pierogies, is also dishing out popular Eastern and Central European-inspired dishes from the OG concept like panko-crusted schnitzel and buttery spaetzle. You’ll also find modern takes on his German and Polish family recipes like cabbage and cauliflower, braised sauerkraut, fresh kielbasa and bratwurst, and more.

Round out dinner with J. Betski’s elevated craft cocktails. Be sure to try the Beet Jammer, a beet-infused vodka, ginger beer and lemon combo that packs a spicy punch. And don’t sleep on that smooth and rich buttered bourbon Old-Fashioned. Then satisfy your sweet tooth at the end of your meal (or at the beginning—no judgment!) with a decadent sweet and savory chocolate torte cake drizzled with caramel and topped with bacon bits—or slurp a signature soda float made with scoops of housemade ice cream. 

Despite its new digs, J. Betski’s 2.0 elicits the same friendly and welcoming vibe that makes you feel like family as soon as you step inside—complete with rollup garage doors and a covered patio. The alfresco-esque indoor/outdoor space promotes a casual yet classy dining experience fit for a date night, fam dinner or a drink at the bar.

“We’re just excited to be back,” says Korzekwinski. “When you’re gone, you realize how much you miss it.” … Clearly Raleigh feels the same—as indicated by a full restaurant from day one with folks eager to nosh on the authentic German/Polish fare they’d missed. “This is a great place to be,” adds the chef/owner. “We have good people here and great things in the works.” Prost to that! jbetskis.com

Iron Chef

Iron Chef

Renowned local chef and restaurateur Scott Crawford is joining the lineup at Raleigh Iron Works

Just when you thought Raleigh Iron Works couldn’t get any cooler—Scott Crawford enters the mix with his newest restaurant, Brodeto. Slated to open in the highly anticipated project’s Bowtruss Building in 2023, the concept will introduce a unique blend of Italian and Croatian cuisine to Raleigh—and will be Crawford’s biggest restaurant yet.

Born from the renowned restaurateur’s first visit to Croatia with wife Jessica a few years ago—and so named for a comforting fish stew that connects Croatia to coastal Italy that’s found in several Adriatic coastal towns—Brodeto (the Croatian spelling) will “have some drama,” says Crawford. Think a live fire hearth, an outdoor “secret garden” with patio seating, a large bar and a crudo counter. Not to mention the flair added by plans to incorporate materials gathered from the original building into the interior, which will be designed by Louis Cherry Architecture—the firm responsible for the interiors at Crawford’s other establishments.  

Crawford emphasizes an open space filled with natural lighting thanks to three walls of floor-to-ceiling windows, where he also hopes to create different “dining environments”—the most prominent of which will be the bar and crudo counter.

Originally something Crawford and his team considered a free-standing concept, the crudo and cocktails could easily be an event all its own, or just the initial part of a full dining experience at Brodeto.

The bar, helmed by beverage manager Jordan Joseph, will spotlight balanced cocktails focused on coastal flavors, coal-grilled fruits and vegetables, infused salts, bitters, and herbal liqueurs, as well as wines from the Adriatic. Meanwhile, the crudo counter will expand on raw dishes with which his team has experimented at Crawford and Son, with a heavy emphasis on seafood, in addition to vegetables and meat. “We just love raw food, and we love the idea of incorporating a crudo bar in an Italian/Croatian concept,” says Crawford.

The main menu at Brodeto will feature traditional dishes from throughout coastal Italy and Croatia, including a plethora of seafood, meats and vegetables cooked in the hearth—“really the only way to cook this food,” he says—plus a handmade pasta program focused on lighter pasta dishes. And naturally, namesake brodeto will be on the menu as well.

“Scott’s culinary talent goes without saying, but to have someone partner with us who is equally excited about our redemptive vision for this place is going to be really special. He not only has a passion for food, but for people and this community. It’s exactly the recipe we were looking for at Raleigh Iron Works.” 

—Sam Crutchfield, Managing Director of Leasing & Acquisitions, Grubb Ventures

“Brodeto is an appropriate name because it connects Italy and Croatia, which is something we’re trying to do here,” says Crawford. “But it also speaks to the type of food that we want to serve people—it’s comforting, very fresh ingredients, sort of humble food.”  

Crawford is no stranger to introducing new restaurant concepts—but he only wants to do one a year. Now that his highly anticipated Crawford Brothers Steakhouse at Fenton is delayed to 2024, that timing change allowed Brodeto to come to fruition, he says. “We really love this concept,” he adds. “We’ve been wanting to do this for a long time—and we feel this is the perfect space to do it.” Sounds like a recipe for success. raleighironworks.com