We chat with Umbrella Dry Bar owner to get the lowdown on the industry.
No booze, no problem. The nonalcoholic beverage scene in Raleigh is only continuing to flourish, with pop-ups from brands like Umbrella Dry Bar and Dry Garden taking place across the city—NTM local alt options like THC/CBD drinks becoming more mainstream. Whether you’re straight sober or just not in the mood to imbibe in alcohol, it seems like there are more options than ever for those wanting to stay dry.
And “these aren’t just substitutes,” says Umbrella Dry Bar founder Meg Paradise; “they represent conscious lifestyle choices that often lead to a cascade of other positive benefits, and we’re meeting so many people in an exploratory phase, many of whom still enjoy alcohol but are cultivating a more mindful and balanced relationship with it.”
As the industry continues to evolve, we chatted with Paradise on what you need to know about NA beverages right now.
Beyond the Replica: Two Main Spirit Categories When exploring nonalcoholic spirits, there are generally two approaches. The first is the “1:1 analog,” or replica-style spirit, crafted to mimic the flavor profile of traditional spirits like bourbon or gin. These were very popular when the NA movement was gaining traction, offering a familiar substitute for classic cocktails. However, the second category is where things get really interesting—these are original, innovative spirits doing their own thing, often with unique flavor combinations and profiles that aren’t trying to be a direct replacement.
Functionality Beyond the Lack of Hangover One of the most compelling aspects of many newer NA beverages, particularly within that second, original category, is their functional benefits. Beyond the obvious perk of no hangover, these drinks often incorporate adaptogens, nootropics and other botanicals that aim to provide specific health benefits. We see products marketed for everything from a “party starter” or “mood uplifter” to supporting social ease, focus, clarity, creativity, and even relaxation and better sleep. It’s a whole new dimension of mindful drinking.
The RTD Revolution: Variety & Convenience The ready-to-drink (RTD) nonalcoholic cocktail market has exploded! We offer a “mix and match” selection at our shop [within The Self Care Marketplace], and the sheer variety available now compared to just a year ago is astounding. It’s a fantastic way for people to experiment with different flavors and brands without committing to a full bottle. Plus, it’s incredibly convenient for enjoying a sophisticated drink on the go. We also consciously curate our RTD selection to be sugar-conscious, with most options ranging between 2–8 grams of sugar per can, and nothing exceeding 12 grams.
Building Your NA Bar Cart Think of building your nonalcoholic bar cart just like you would a traditional one. We stock a diverse range of NA spirits, alongside essential cocktail components like high-quality syrups, aromatic bitters and a variety of garnishes. This allows people to get creative and craft complex and delicious nonalcoholic cocktails at home, mirroring the ritual and enjoyment of traditional mixology.
If Meg Paradise told you she was opening a nonalcoholic bar in Raleigh two years ago, you’d probably tell her she was insane—and many people did. Fast-forward to now, and her just-bowed Umbrella Dry Bar has been accepted with open arms by sober and sober-curious Raleighites eagerly awaiting such a concept.
But despite the initial Dry January buzz, are spirit-free sips enough to sustain an entire enterprise? Paradise is willing to bet a full-blown bar business on it—and emphasizes the timing couldn’t be more perfect.
“The amount of strangers I’ve spoken to who say, ‘We’re so ready for this,’ or ‘There’s something for me now…’” she says. “I don’t even think [the sober movement] is really trendy—it’s just immersed in our culture these days.”
To wit, the “movement” isn’t just black and white: You’re sober or not. Even Paradise doesn’t put boundaries on her own drinking. “I don’t identify with the term sober,” she says. “I’m just not called to drink.”
And she’s not alone. Hence the trend. Often—and many—people just want a night out sans alc for any number of reasons. So much so that “mindful” or “sober curious” or “damp” drinking has taken off in popularity as of late, supplemented with more and more bars both in Raleigh and countrywide expanding menus with nonalcoholic options to include mocktails; NA beer, wine, spirits; and more.
Leading the charge—and speaking volumes—is one of America’s biggest party towns. Austin has leaned into the passion for spiritless potions since the pandemic. See its Sans Bar, the first-ever NA bar in the U.S., bowing its brick-and-mortar last year and surging since. “Sans Bar has captured the spirit (no pun intended) of a bar by providing a gathering space with tasty libations, live music, trivia and comedy nights,” says Austin MonthlyEditor-in-Chief Madeline Hollern. “The point of a bar was never really about getting drunk—it was always about connection and entertainment.”
Even before Umbrella opened its doors—or began pop-ups in 2022—Raleigh was no stranger to sober-curiosity. Perhaps ahead of its time, Killjoy first bowed with a largely zero-proof concept in 2020, with half its opening menu consisting of spirit-free cocktails—all but unheard of at the time. While NA drinks remain a huge focus, owner Josh Gagne recognizes it might’ve been a bit too early to full send.
“When we were initially developing the concept of Killjoy, we had spent a solid amount of time discussing whether or not we wanted it to be nonalcoholic only,” he says. “But I didn’t see a way it could be sustainable financially, so that’s why I really want to support [Umbrella]—and I hope they kill it. It’s challenging more concepts to have more options, which is making it more relatable and comfortable for people who don’t consume.”
Beyond the country’s mindset shift toward drinking—and nodding toward timing—Paradise also emphasizes the sheer increase in volume of spirit-alternative product availability, including beers, wines and spirits that genuinely taste pretty close to the real thing. Not to mention two years of research, testing, events and infinite conversations. And, so, with Umbrella, she’s not only investing in a great zero-proof beverage program for sober appeal, but robust mocktails for all. Proclaims Paradise: “We want this to be the best beverage program in Raleigh, whether you drink or not.”
We tapped top editors around the country for what’s hot right now—and what’s coming in 2024.
In almost every facet of life, what’s in fashion is cyclical (see: skinny brows, flare jeans, clear liquors…). But when it comes to our ever-evolving palates—flavors don’t just fall in and out of favor. What’s new and now seems to only sate our unending appetite for the next best thing for mere moments, leaving it hard to fathom what’s next. But, lucky for us, regions vary on their timing and fervor for the newest flavor… each trend-setting city teeming with critics—er, citizens—ready to deem the latest “it” factor or passing fad.
As we look ahead to the year to come, we know no one has a better vantage point into the looking glass than city mag editors. So, we tapped a handful of top brass around the country in cities we’re oft compared to or chasing to help us forecast what’s hot right now and what’s coming in 2024. And in my convos with these six foodie experts, one thing’s for certain—2024 is gonna be a vibe.
Retro classics: “One of Dallas’ hottest restaurants serves sole meunière, lamb Wellington, and lobster thermidor. We’re partying like it’s 1965.” Clubby Korean restaurants: “All-you-can-eat BBQ… and bottle service. Kimchi… and bouncers.” Beer-flavored beer: “After years of pushing various boundaries, Texas breweries are falling back in love with plain old light lagers, pilsners and pale ales.” Small business bonds: “Most unusual of all, a Dallas bakery recently issued small business bonds. Here’s an interview about it and the actual bond account.”
Photo by Carly Cooper
Atlanta —Carly Cooper, Writer & Editor Atlanta magazine
Headshot by Lia Picard
Influx of omakase: “Atlanta has seen an influx of omakase restaurants—from Omakase by Yun to Brush. Mujō and Hayakawa were even awarded one Michelin star for their offerings.” Vegan en vogue: “From plant-based burger enterprise Slutty Vegan to Latin-flavored La Semilla, vegan restaurants have burst onto the scene.” Modern Mexican: “Modern Mexican is taking Atlanta by storm with regional dishes like squash blossom quesadillas at Oaxaca, creative cocktails at Palo Santo, and seafood-forward fare at D Boca N Boca.”
Photo courtesy of Amar
Boston —Rachel Leah Blumenthal, Food Editor Boston magazine
Local seafood, global inspirations: “An increasing number of Greater Boston-area restaurants are showcasing global cuisines using our beautiful local products—like brilliant new Vietnamese cocktail bar The Eaves or new upscale Portuguese restaurant Amar. Ember-grilled Maine lobster with Azorean pineapple and preserved fennel, anyone?” Fine dining: “Special-occasion dining has taken a much more casual spin in recent years. Patrons—particularly young professionals—are excited to pay top dollar for incredible food in crowded, energetic restaurants with booming soundtracks; zero dress codes; service that’s friendly but far-removed from old-school fawning hospitality; and flavor-packed, hands-on small plates to be dug into with friends. Special-occasion dining has taken a much more casual spin in recent years. Take Lenox Sophia—one of the highest-ranking restaurants on our just-updated guide to Boston’s 50 best restaurants. You’ll pay upward of $100 per person for an elegant and expertly prepared prix fixe menu, but the vibe is casual, like you’re in chef-owner Shi Mei’s own home.” Dramatic cocktails: “We’re a little in danger of leaning too gimmicky on this front, but a lot of recent additions to Boston’s cocktail scene are carefully striking the right balance: Craft cocktails with fun, over-the-top presentations are having a big moment here right now. Secret passwords, plenty of things on fire, garnishes bigger than the drinking vessel, hair-related puns (see: Boston’s appropriately named Wig Shop)… sure!”
Tinned fish: “Move over, ceviche! Conservas have become the ‘it’ appetizer, with briny options popping up on menus— from hotel bars to hot restaurants.” Nonalcoholic scene has gotten huge: “There are NA drinks on every menu; tons of zero-proof brands based here; and Austin is home to the country’s first NA bar, Sans Bar.” Restaurant bathroom decor: “Featuring custom murals, neon signs and even disco balls, these eye-catching loos all but demand a selfie.” IG-worthy cocktails: Beyond ’Grammable ’tails, “speakeasies are everywhere, shrimp cocktail seems to be having a moment and burgers in general seem to be everywhere.”
Photo courtesy of Tuk Tuk
Chicago —Amy Cavanaugh, Dining Editor Chicago magazine
Hyper-regional fare: “We’re seeing new spots open focusing on hyper-regional cuisines, such as at Thattu, which serves the food of Kerala, and Tuk Tuk, which serves Isan fare.” Sober curious: “Low and no-alcohol drinks continue to grow in popularity, and we’ve especially been seeing nonalcoholic wines recently.” Affordable fine dining: “Chicago is known for its fine-dining scene, and the past couple of years more affordable tasting menus have sprung up. It’s a reaction to the pandemic and the issues that restaurants still face, and it makes luxe meals more approachable for diners.”
Photo courtesy of Gallery Armada
DC —Jessica Sidman, Food Editor Washingtonian
Maximalism is in: “The TikTok boom, increased prices and pent-up pandemic demand have all converged to make dining out feel more like an event. The result is over-the-top decor, plus dishes and drinks that come with a show.” Food halls gone fancy: “Food halls aren’t just glorified food courts anymore. They’re home to Michelin restaurants and high-end omakase menus, and they’re attracting talent from some of the city’s top restaurants. The Square and Love, Makoto—which both opened in 2023—are two prime examples.” French food wave: “Maybe because it’s a familiar cuisine in uncertain times. Maybe it’s just another example of a cyclical food trend. But the DC area has seen a lot of French restaurant openings over the past year—from the refined regional cooking at Petite Cerise to comforting bistro classics at Josephine.” Everything’s a vibe: “We’re seeing lots of restaurants that are more about the scene than what’s on the plate.” Service fees everywhere: “In 2022, DC residents voted to phase out the tipped wage system that allows restaurants to subsidize the base pay of servers and bartenders with gratuity from diners. To make up for increased labor costs, many restaurants have implemented mandatory service fees, which can range from 3 to 22%. That’s causing a lot of confusion among diners about tipping expectations.”
We’ve all heard of farm-to-table… but what do you know about farm-to-can? Devil’s Foot Beverage Company, an Asheville-based craft soda company, is utilizing fresh, regionally sourced ingredients in their zero-proof bevs—making for an ideal mocktail or mixer for festive holiday gatherings (or, ya know, just whenever you’re thirsty).
Devil’s Foot President and co-founder Ben Colvin came up with the super-satisfying soda after noticing there weren’t many nonalcoholic options at taprooms—and that most ginger beers were too sweet. Ergo, Devil’s Foot’s 10 distinctly flavored craft bevs—each with less than 20g of sugar per can and mostly sweetened naturally by fruit, as well as regionally sourced honey and organic cane sugar—were the perfect solution.
Crowd faves include the spicy original Ginger Beer, the Fuego Ginger Beer (kicking it up a notch!), Pink Robots Sparkling Strawberry Lemonade and Blueberry Feels Forever (a sparkling blueberry lemonade).
Beyond using craft brewing equipment and techniques, one crucial practice for the bev company is keeping it local and sustainable. Its farm-to-can model means zesting fruit before juicing, using “ugly fruit” and sending off pressed fruit skins to brewers. It’s sustainability at its tastiest. So this holiday season you can get in the spirit with some spirit-free sparkling bevs and skip the holiday hangover. Yes, please!
