Tinned fish is officially chic—and taking Raleigh by storm.
Hot take: Tinned fish is no longer just a can of StarKist tuna. Once a pantry staple, colorful artist-driven packaging has elevated the humble tin to a luxury snack taking over grocery store shelves, wine bars and restaurant menus across the U.S.
Long a foodie fixture in places like Portugal and Spain, European conservas—aka high-quality artisan-preserved seafood—first launched into the ether as the “it” appetizer in 2023, fueled in part by TikTok and a hashtag that racked up ~100 million views under “#tinnedfish.” Raleigh has only recently started catching up.
Co-owner Katie O’Kane of The Hippo links the rise to the city’s fast uncorking thirst for wine. “Raleigh is such a big beer town with so many incredible local breweries,” she says—“and tinned fish is usually associated with wine,” thanks to its natural acidity against the richness of tinned fish. “People are getting curious about it as it becomes more widely available and talked about.”
While sardines and anchovies remain go-tos, O’Kane recs mackerel and tuna for newbies. Sauces and spices—like mustard, tomato or fennel—soften that robust fishiness and make the snack more approachable. At The Hippo, you’ll find mackerel in mustard sauce, sardines in tomato sauce, and a lemon and fennel tuna. Dram Fenton dishes its artisan cans on charcuterie boards, complete with crackers, bread, dips, nuts and pickled accouterments. And State of Beer rotates Italian classics alongside innovative Fishwife recipes like smoked rainbow trout with red chimichurri, or albacore tuna in spicy olive oil.
“You bet we love tinned fish at SOB!” chimes co-owner Chris Powers. “We started carrying it to promote a more casual option.” So don’t be afraid to test the waters and crack open a can of something new—you may just find your new favorite snack.
If the viral sassy pygmy hippo Moo Deng was any indication, the world is obsessed with those barrel-shaped semiaquatic icons. Now, Raleigh’s getting a new hippo obsession in the form of the December-slated and revamped Hippo Wine Bar, recently acquired by North South Hospitality.
The hospitality group made up of Vance Daniels and Katie and Clayton O’Kane—also behind fast local fave Gussie’s—is keeping the same name (with Sorena Dadgar also staying on as the operating manager), but giving it a refreshed vibe in collaboration with Julia Petiprin of Cincinnati-based design consulting company House of Departure, who also helped with the interior design of Gussie’s.
Katie says Petiprin drew inspiration from the name, but instead of going really on the nose with something like animal print/safari vibes, she’s “using colors, textures and lighting to give us warmer, cozier vibes.” Think natural elements such as handmade tile, West Africa-inspired patterns, and natural wood tones and fibers throughout.
“We’re definitely focusing in on things you can’t get other places. There’s a couple of really phenomenal wine bars already here, and, more than anything, we’re just really excited to be part of that community.” —Katie O’Kane, North South Hospitality
And while the OG Hippo leaned more wine shop than wine bar, the trio hopes to shift the new space more bar. “We want it to be a place you could hang out for a while—that could be the spot you are going to that night,” says Katie. “It doesn’t have to just be a place you’re stopping for a bottle of wine on your way home or waiting with a glass of wine before dinner.”
They’re also hoping the addition of food—think charcuterie, tinned fish and the like—will further encourage people to linger a while. And, leaning into North South Hospitality’s “everyone’s considered” MO, Hippo will also offer beer, beer cocktails, shandies and spritzes in response to the national low-ABV trend.
“I find that Raleigh—and I really love this—is looking for lower-ABV stuff as opposed to asking for the strongest thing,” says Daniels. “I think it’s because people are happy here. No one’s drinking to forget; they’re just drinking to have fun—they’re not miserable. … And the spritz menu will really scratch that itch.”
Ultimately, it’s just “damn good wine”—for everyone. “There can be such a misconception of pretension around wine when it’s made by farmers. It doesn’t have to be such a scary, pretentious thing,” maintains Katie, who’s also a sommelier, noting she is a fan of Triangle pros who’re working to change that narrative to have vino be more approachable. … So whether you’re a wine lover or not, rest assured Hippo’s going to make a splash. @the__hippo
We tapped top editors around the country for what’s hot right now—and what’s coming in 2024.
In almost every facet of life, what’s in fashion is cyclical (see: skinny brows, flare jeans, clear liquors…). But when it comes to our ever-evolving palates—flavors don’t just fall in and out of favor. What’s new and now seems to only sate our unending appetite for the next best thing for mere moments, leaving it hard to fathom what’s next. But, lucky for us, regions vary on their timing and fervor for the newest flavor… each trend-setting city teeming with critics—er, citizens—ready to deem the latest “it” factor or passing fad.
As we look ahead to the year to come, we know no one has a better vantage point into the looking glass than city mag editors. So, we tapped a handful of top brass around the country in cities we’re oft compared to or chasing to help us forecast what’s hot right now and what’s coming in 2024. And in my convos with these six foodie experts, one thing’s for certain—2024 is gonna be a vibe.
Retro classics: “One of Dallas’ hottest restaurants serves sole meunière, lamb Wellington, and lobster thermidor. We’re partying like it’s 1965.” Clubby Korean restaurants: “All-you-can-eat BBQ… and bottle service. Kimchi… and bouncers.” Beer-flavored beer: “After years of pushing various boundaries, Texas breweries are falling back in love with plain old light lagers, pilsners and pale ales.” Small business bonds: “Most unusual of all, a Dallas bakery recently issued small business bonds. Here’s an interview about it and the actual bond account.”
Photo by Carly Cooper
Atlanta —Carly Cooper, Writer & Editor Atlanta magazine
Headshot by Lia Picard
Influx of omakase: “Atlanta has seen an influx of omakase restaurants—from Omakase by Yun to Brush. Mujō and Hayakawa were even awarded one Michelin star for their offerings.” Vegan en vogue: “From plant-based burger enterprise Slutty Vegan to Latin-flavored La Semilla, vegan restaurants have burst onto the scene.” Modern Mexican: “Modern Mexican is taking Atlanta by storm with regional dishes like squash blossom quesadillas at Oaxaca, creative cocktails at Palo Santo, and seafood-forward fare at D Boca N Boca.”
Photo courtesy of Amar
Boston —Rachel Leah Blumenthal, Food Editor Boston magazine
Local seafood, global inspirations: “An increasing number of Greater Boston-area restaurants are showcasing global cuisines using our beautiful local products—like brilliant new Vietnamese cocktail bar The Eaves or new upscale Portuguese restaurant Amar. Ember-grilled Maine lobster with Azorean pineapple and preserved fennel, anyone?” Fine dining: “Special-occasion dining has taken a much more casual spin in recent years. Patrons—particularly young professionals—are excited to pay top dollar for incredible food in crowded, energetic restaurants with booming soundtracks; zero dress codes; service that’s friendly but far-removed from old-school fawning hospitality; and flavor-packed, hands-on small plates to be dug into with friends. Special-occasion dining has taken a much more casual spin in recent years. Take Lenox Sophia—one of the highest-ranking restaurants on our just-updated guide to Boston’s 50 best restaurants. You’ll pay upward of $100 per person for an elegant and expertly prepared prix fixe menu, but the vibe is casual, like you’re in chef-owner Shi Mei’s own home.” Dramatic cocktails: “We’re a little in danger of leaning too gimmicky on this front, but a lot of recent additions to Boston’s cocktail scene are carefully striking the right balance: Craft cocktails with fun, over-the-top presentations are having a big moment here right now. Secret passwords, plenty of things on fire, garnishes bigger than the drinking vessel, hair-related puns (see: Boston’s appropriately named Wig Shop)… sure!”
Tinned fish: “Move over, ceviche! Conservas have become the ‘it’ appetizer, with briny options popping up on menus— from hotel bars to hot restaurants.” Nonalcoholic scene has gotten huge: “There are NA drinks on every menu; tons of zero-proof brands based here; and Austin is home to the country’s first NA bar, Sans Bar.” Restaurant bathroom decor: “Featuring custom murals, neon signs and even disco balls, these eye-catching loos all but demand a selfie.” IG-worthy cocktails: Beyond ’Grammable ’tails, “speakeasies are everywhere, shrimp cocktail seems to be having a moment and burgers in general seem to be everywhere.”
Photo courtesy of Tuk Tuk
Chicago —Amy Cavanaugh, Dining Editor Chicago magazine
Hyper-regional fare: “We’re seeing new spots open focusing on hyper-regional cuisines, such as at Thattu, which serves the food of Kerala, and Tuk Tuk, which serves Isan fare.” Sober curious: “Low and no-alcohol drinks continue to grow in popularity, and we’ve especially been seeing nonalcoholic wines recently.” Affordable fine dining: “Chicago is known for its fine-dining scene, and the past couple of years more affordable tasting menus have sprung up. It’s a reaction to the pandemic and the issues that restaurants still face, and it makes luxe meals more approachable for diners.”
Photo courtesy of Gallery Armada
DC —Jessica Sidman, Food Editor Washingtonian
Maximalism is in: “The TikTok boom, increased prices and pent-up pandemic demand have all converged to make dining out feel more like an event. The result is over-the-top decor, plus dishes and drinks that come with a show.” Food halls gone fancy: “Food halls aren’t just glorified food courts anymore. They’re home to Michelin restaurants and high-end omakase menus, and they’re attracting talent from some of the city’s top restaurants. The Square and Love, Makoto—which both opened in 2023—are two prime examples.” French food wave: “Maybe because it’s a familiar cuisine in uncertain times. Maybe it’s just another example of a cyclical food trend. But the DC area has seen a lot of French restaurant openings over the past year—from the refined regional cooking at Petite Cerise to comforting bistro classics at Josephine.” Everything’s a vibe: “We’re seeing lots of restaurants that are more about the scene than what’s on the plate.” Service fees everywhere: “In 2022, DC residents voted to phase out the tipped wage system that allows restaurants to subsidize the base pay of servers and bartenders with gratuity from diners. To make up for increased labor costs, many restaurants have implemented mandatory service fees, which can range from 3 to 22%. That’s causing a lot of confusion among diners about tipping expectations.”
