Young & Hungry

Three talented toques step out of the shadows and break out on their own.

Before EGOT*-winning John Legend became a legend, he sang backup vocals. Foodie phenom Scott Crawford began his journey as five-time James Beard-nominated culinary powerhouse as a busboy.

Some of the most prolific talents of our time have come from humble beginnings—people willing to set ego aside and parlay their talent to serve as a sponge to establish themselves and hone their craft. So goes the origin story of a trio of talented toques—each of whom were at the helm of three of our 2022 Best Restaurants—seizing their moment to carve out their own spots.

Former LM Restaurants star chef Saif Rahman, who cut his teeth locally at Vidrio, has plans to soon open his own restaurant. The victuals visionary, whose star saw rapid rise under such industry standouts as Crawford, credits him with his ascension: “Scott Crawford is a dear friend and an amazing mentor to me. He guides me, and he inspires me with what he has done, what he has gone through—and beat it—to get where he is today. He’s an inspiration to our city, other young chefs and to the chef world.”

That inspiration has turned to actualization for Rahman who sees Raleigh’s rapid growth and diversity as a prime opportunity. “It’s time to share a different culture and cuisine,” says the breakout chef. “I want to embrace change and diversity and connect with our guests emotionally through our food—that’s what excites me.” 

Also leaning into diversifying the cuisine scene, longtime Brewery Bhavana/Bida Manda chef Lon Bounsanga announced his departure to open highly anticipated Laotian-focused SAAP (which translates to delicious) later this year, edging the masterfully designed Downtown Cary Park. “It’s the right time for me,” says Bounsanga. “Breaking out now means I am ready. As a seasoned chef, all the ingredients and resources are available to make this dream a reality.” 

That manifested destiny also fills a very real void in the market for authentic Lao cuisine—think Indian, Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese influences—for which the Vientiane, Laos, native sees Cary as the perfect palate. “So when Bill Zahn, who is very involved in Downtown Cary projects, approached me about opening a restaurant next to what is going to be a world-class park, it made sense immediately,” says Bounsanga. “Who could pass up that opportunity?”

Not to mention peer pioneer Alex Ricci. Rounding out the toque trifecta, Ricci—who masterminded the menu as now-former head chef at Cucciolo Terrazza and earned Raleigh Mag’s 2022 Best New Restaurant right out of the gate—knows his time is now. Partnering with Jonny Ennis and Justin Tatnell, Ricci is set to slide into now-defunct adjoining West Street spaces Rainbow Luncheonette and Pink Boot with a duo of concepts. Restaurant Prospect will serve as an ode to Raleigh—and with it an extended witching hour for hungry revelers—along with your next fave drink den, The Devereux (p. 44).

Not unlike a Michelin-star meal, timing is everything, and these chefs are right on time. Armed with a vision for what Raleigh needs right now with a mad dash of precise chops amassed over years of sweat equity and “yes, chefs,” these gastronomic greats have become masters in their own right. 

“As a chef, you spend years putting your food on other people’s plates. The love for your craft has been monetized by someone else, and it can be hard to stay passionate for anything you do, especially if you’re not doing it for yourself” says Ricci. “I want to live within my dreams, not be a spectator of them.” Dreams delivered.

*EGOT: Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, Tony

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