Photo by Julia Wade, courtesy of Brewery Bhavana

Asian Food Boom

In Eat, February 2024 by Anna Beth Adcock2 Comments

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Far East fare is taking our city—and country—by storm. 

Asian food is having a moment. With new creative and elevated Far East concepts consistently popping up around the area in droves (see: Tamasha, SAAP, M Test Kitchen, and Heirloom’s new Asian-inspired dinner menu), along with thriving spots boasting years of seasoning—we see you, Brewery Bhavana (and its upcoming Fenton outpost), Bida Manda, Red Dragon, Sono and Five Star—the cuisine is writing a new name for itself. 

Before this relatively recent boon of elevated Asian concepts, diners seeking a fancy meal might have elected for dinner at a steakhouse rather than the oft more casual Asian option, which typically conjures images of takeout boxes and casual surrounds. In essence, elevated restaurants have long lacked diversity in terms of menu and clientele. Until now. (This isn’t an attack on low-key Asian. In fact, I love all types of Asian fare, frequent unassuming hole-in-the-wall eateries and even resided in Bangkok for nearly a year where the tantalizing street fare and captivating casual-yet-quality eats abounded—hey, Jay Fai!) 

But we can’t deny the shortage of local choices. Our city has long lacked elevated Asian options—aside from Raleigh’s inaugural Japanese sushi outpost, Kanki, serving patrons a full sit-down meal experience with a show since 1972, and the circa-1987 Imperial Garden Restaurant, touting a claim to fame as the Triangle’s OG authentic Chinese eatery. 

Now, Far East cuisine seems to be shifting itself into a new era on the foodie scene across the country, with more and more sophisticated concepts popping up and piquing interest all over. This is something the talent behind Tamasha, Raleigh’s first elevated Indian restaurant, noticed and capitalized on through their just-opened concept. 

“We feel like Raleigh is ready for a big city-type of restaurant with the glitz and bling you might see in Vegas,” shares Tina Vora on why she and her team decided to debut the luxe—and Michelin-chef helmed—North Hills spot. Adds partner Mike Kathrani: “[Indian food] is one of the most complex foods, and we have seen that the whole gamut of Indian food hasn’t yet been presented
to America.”

To wit, the public is craving more and more authentic and diverse food options. “Demand is growing,” shares Sunny Lin, co-owner of MOFU Shoppe, which also nabbed the season six win of Food Network’s The Great Food Truck Race. “Maybe it’s because people have discovered Chinese food isn’t just orange chicken; Vietnamese food isn’t just pho; and Thai food isn’t just pad thai. Globalization is being reflected in people’s palates now.” 

Echoing that sentiment is local culinary luminary Lon Bounsanga, who recently bowed Laotian restaurant SAAP. “Successful restaurants create room for more such restaurants,” says the  longtime Bida Manda/Brewery Bhavana chef. “As the Asian restaurant scene evolves, smaller Asian countries are seeing their cuisine and culture showcased. Diners are learning that, although ingredients are shared, each cuisine has its own story.”

And that appetite is sweeping the nation. A slew of studies show cravings for the cuisine is heightening, with ~12% of all restaurants in the country offering some sort of Asian food per recent Pew Research. “Chinese restaurants were most popular, so they’re found in every state and 70% of all counties,” says Sono Shah, lead author of the aforementioned study in a recent Voice of America article. “Every state, and a third or more of all counties, also have at least one Japanese or Thai restaurant.” The younger crowd is especially on board, with Gen Z and Millennials among those most craving ethnic eats. … Chew on that

Translation, the broad cuisine category is (finally) getting the hype and hoopla it’s always deserved. Move over, steakhouses and boujee Italian restaurants—it’s Far East fare’s time to shine. 

Heirloom photo by Anna Phommavong

Flavor Profiles by Region

Asian food cannot be grouped into a single category—each region offers vastly rich and diverse flavors, dishes and styles. Here, a quick (noncomprehensive!) breakdown of a few Asian cuisine categories. 

▪ Chinese: Salty, spicy, sour, sweet and bitter. Think: soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic and scallion flavors 
▪ Japanese: Artistic, exact textures and temperatures, and savory. Think: seafood, tempura, ramen,
miso soup 
▪ Korean: Flavorful, fiery and fermented. Think: kimchi, Korean BBQ, chile powder and sesame 
▪ Southeast Asian: Salty, sweet, spicy, sour and fresh—all in perfect balance. Think: tropical fruits, veggies, lemongrass, Thai basil and lime 
▪ South Asian: Spicy, creamy and full of flavor. Think: turmeric, lentils, peas, beans and curry leaves

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Comments

  1. To think that all this Asian food crave started with the long gone Canton restaurant on Hillsborough Street in downtown Raleigh … remember.

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