Going Dry

Is Raleigh really ready to go sober?

If Meg Paradise told you she was opening a nonalcoholic bar in Raleigh two years ago, you’d probably tell her she was insane—and many people did. Fast-forward to now, and her just-bowed Umbrella Dry Bar has been accepted with open arms by sober and sober-curious Raleighites eagerly awaiting such a concept.

But despite the initial Dry January buzz, are spirit-free sips enough to sustain an entire enterprise? Paradise is willing to bet a full-blown bar business on it—and emphasizes the timing couldn’t be more perfect.

“The amount of strangers I’ve spoken to who say, ‘We’re so ready for this,’ or ‘There’s something for me now…’” she says. “I don’t even think [the sober movement] is really trendy—it’s just immersed in our culture these days.”

To wit, the “movement” isn’t just black and white: You’re sober or not. Even Paradise doesn’t put boundaries on her own drinking. “I don’t identify with the term sober,” she says. “I’m just not called to drink.” 

And she’s not alone. Hence the trend. Often—and many—people just want a night out sans alc for any number of reasons. So much so that “mindful” or “sober curious” or “damp” drinking has taken off in popularity as of late, supplemented with more and more bars both in Raleigh and countrywide expanding menus with nonalcoholic options to include mocktails; NA beer, wine, spirits; and more.

Leading the charge—and speaking volumes—is one of America’s biggest party towns. Austin has leaned into the passion for spiritless potions since the pandemic. See its Sans Bar, the first-ever NA bar in the U.S., bowing its brick-and-mortar last year and surging since. “Sans Bar has captured the spirit (no pun intended) of a bar by providing a gathering space with tasty libations, live music, trivia and comedy nights,” says Austin Monthly Editor-in-Chief Madeline Hollern. “The point of a bar was never really about getting drunk—it was always about connection and entertainment.” 

Even before Umbrella opened its doors—or began pop-ups in 2022—Raleigh was no stranger to sober-curiosity. Perhaps ahead of its time, Killjoy first bowed with a largely zero-proof concept in 2020, with half its opening menu consisting of spirit-free cocktails—all but unheard of at the time. While NA drinks remain a huge focus, owner Josh Gagne recognizes it might’ve been a bit too early to full send.

“When we were initially developing the concept of Killjoy, we had spent a solid amount of time discussing whether or not we wanted it to be nonalcoholic only,” he says. “But I didn’t see a way it could be sustainable financially, so that’s why I really want to support [Umbrella]—and I hope they kill it. It’s challenging more concepts to have more options, which is making it more relatable and comfortable for people who don’t consume.” 

Beyond the country’s mindset shift toward drinking—and nodding toward timing—Paradise also emphasizes the sheer increase in volume of spirit-alternative product availability, including beers, wines and spirits that genuinely taste pretty close to the real thing. Not to mention two years of research, testing, events and infinite conversations. And, so, with Umbrella, she’s not only investing in a great zero-proof beverage program for sober appeal, but robust mocktails for all. Proclaims Paradise: “We want this to be the best beverage program in Raleigh, whether you drink or not.”