Eating My Way Through LaGana’s Omakase

I got to eat my way through LaGana’s late-summer omakase session—here’s how it went.

The hottest reservation in Raleigh happens once a month for three nights—and sells out almost immediately when tickets go on sale. Enter RM 2026 Best Restaurants winner LaGana’s monthly omakase sessions. 

Typically centered around a unique theme and in collaboration with one or more local chefs, the highly anticipated dinner features a multicourse guided tasting experience with bevs to pair. Translating to “I’ll leave it up to you,” the series puts diners’ trust in LaGana chef-owner Luis Zouain (and whoever he’s pairing up with in the kitchen that night)—allowing him to showcase his craftsmanship beyond meat and buns. And I can confidently say your senses will not be disappointed. 

I got the lucky opportunity to attend LaGana’s gastropub-themed 21st omakase session in collaboration with chef-owner David Ellis of Figulina—and to say my expectations were exceeded is an understatement. 

After almost two years of monthly dinners (the omakase series began in December 2024), the experience proved to be a well-oiled machine, with every team member functioning as if part of a well-produced play they’d rehearsed, well, over 20 times.

A horchata-inspired welcome drink immediately set the scene for what you immediately knew was going to be a special night blending British tavern vibes with Latin bar food. And for a front-row look at the magic, I—along with my fellow attendees—was seated at the bar wrapped around the kitchen.

Pulling from both Zouain’s Dominican roots and Ellis’ Stoke-on-Trent, England, homeland, the August menu boasted a tasty amalgamation of flavors, techniques and influences, with each chef taking turns executing and presenting dishes in such a way that you knew it was personal. 

Take the robust beef tartare made with Yorkshire pudding and tallow dressing, liver and onions, and fish and chips—all representing Ellis’ beginnings across the pond—plus cappellacci, a steak- and onion-stuffed pasta in an ale consomme nodding to pasta-heavy Figulina. Zouain’s Dominican background shined through via maduros served with huancaína cheese sauce and escabeche ashes, leche de tigre ceviche, and a stewlike choripan topped with flauta crumbs, pomarola and chimichurri. 

Cheekily-named drinks accompanied dishes throughout the evening, from the gin- and cucumber-forward Gigi to a whiskey-based Juan Collins and Yuzu L8tr—along with a midway beer flight featuring Presidente, Pacifico, Newcastle and Guinness, naturally. 

And to cap it all off, three desserts: English breakfast tea and scones with clotted cream and raspberry jam, summer pudding (starring “black pudding,” aka fudge), and sticky toffee.

After stuffing myself to the absolute brim with 15 carefully constructed bites, I left very full–but with a newfound appreciation for what happens when you let a chef take the reins. Not to mention excitement for whatever Zouain dreams up next. Because following that dinner, I’d trust whatever dish he puts in front of me.

Wanna taste of the action? Sign up for omakase first-access seating and updates here.