After almost 40 years, MerleFest hasn’t lost sight of the music.
MerleFest has festivals figured out—and Raleigh should take note. The famed folk fest drew ~80K fans to the foothills of the Appalachian mountains April 23–26 (the hosting town, Wilkesboro, has a population of just 3,650) for the four-day music fete at Wilkes Community College.
The fest—founded in 1988 by local bluegrass legend Doc Watson—was launched as a tribute to Watson’s late son Merle, who shared his skill for the genre. Watson always maintained that MerleFest was meant to deliver “traditional-plus” music, a term he and Merle coined to describe “the traditional music of the Appalachian region plus whatever other styles we were in the mood to play.”
In tune with that philosophy, the lineup always includes blues, country, roots rock, and folk—standout artists such as Old Crow Medicine Show, Steep Canyon Rangers, Joy Oladokun and Molly Tuttle joined the lineup this year—and make for a who’s who of big names and trailblazers propelling the genres forward.
Merlefest hit happy mediums across the board: It’s fam-friendly but all ages and all demographics can be spotted, and it’s perfectly low-maintenance—you don’t need to plan outfits weeks in advance or haul yourself across the county looking for a clear purse that fits the guidelines. And because the event is entirely alcohol-free, both the fans and the fest are uniquely focused on the music over the bustle and booze that often come alongside music fests.
As someone who has witnessed the good, the bad and the ugly at music fests across the country, myriad traits left me pleasantly surprised as a first-timer. Here, all the ways MerleFest won me over.
Rain, Rain, Here to Stay I quickly found out that it famously rains every year during MerleFest—at least three locals gleefully told me—and despite the severe drought this year, Mother Nature still provided (the adage allegedly passed around claims the MerleFest rain is the only time a year the “hippies take a bath”). The show went on with ease—all those years of rain stacked up to a lot of unbothered festival goers and multiple booths handing out ponchos.
Jam-Packed Yes, the lineup was immaculate and I thoroughly enjoyed every set I caught, but my favorite performances happened underneath the pickin’ tents, where locals and patrons toting instruments gathered for mini jam seshs.
Each group would simply pick a song and go, bouncing off each other’s notes and chatting as they went—and the musicians that showed were all over the map. Read: A 92-year-old man with a trucker hat, a violin and an incredibly soothing singing voice, followed by an eight(ish)-year-old picking a banjo while holding intense eye contact and coaxing passerbyers over to lend him an ear.
Festival Food Hall Not only were all the food ops local, but they were very inexpensive, by fest and non-fest standards—and in this economy, that’s huge. I’ve never eaten so much at a festival (a Philly cheesesteak, kettle corn and ice cream were all on my menu) and not felt like my bank account was crying. To boot, all the food was very appetizing. Because the fest is entirely alcohol-free, one local theorized with me that they can’t get away with selling mid food to tipsy fete-goers like other festivals can.
Parking = No Problem Transit was shockingly a breeze. Parking is free, and a free (and fast!) shuttle service is provided to and from the fest. Read: The line for the shuttle never took more than 10 minutes, making for a smooth getaway.
The 36th annual MerleFest promises something for every musical taste.
The North Carolina foothills are about to come alive again with the sound of music (someone call Julie Andrews!). The 36th edition of MerleFest—the annual celebration of “traditional-plus” music (think a mix of bluegrass, newgrass, blues, country, rock, folk and more)—is rolling through Wilkes Community College campus in Wilkesboro April 25–28.
Founded by late legend Doc Watson, the Americana fest—named after Watson’s son and fellow picker, Merle—promises something for every musical taste, with 100+ musicians taking to 13 stages throughout the weekend. A musical choose your own adventure, if you will. Nearly 80,000 festivalgoers from across the country and beyond are expected to attend this year’s festival, according to MerleFest Director Frederick “B” William Townes IV, affectionately known as the father of MerleFest.
Want to go to MerleFest for free? The festival is still looking for volunteers, which typically number more than 4,000! Email [email protected] to learn more.
Also a boon for the community, the economic impact totals ~$12–15 million, with the revenue serving 45 local nonprofits. “It grew from a one-day one-man concert to a two-day multistage festival,” he adds—“and, as they say, the rest is history.”
And while on that quest for the next musical phenom, don’t miss the annual MerleFest Band Competition, which allows you to hear previously unknown talents (and the next big thing) from across the country as they compete on the Plaza Stage on Saturday for the coveted spot of performing on the festival’s Hillside Stage on Sunday. That is, of course, if you’re not too tired out to catch the winners after staying up for the rollicking Saturday Night Jam or from the Dance Tent. (Push through—you won’t regret it!)Beyond all the great sets, the second-largest tourist draw to North Carolina is about so much more than the music. There’s shopping, a wide range of local fare, nature walk ops and documentary screenings. But, most importantly, it’s about the people—from the longtime volunteers to the fans who have never missed a festival to the first-time attendees. Jerry Douglas, master dobro player of Alison Krauss & Union Station and the Earls of Leicester, calls it a homecoming and a reunion for the musicians as well as their fans. We couldn’t have said it better ourselves. One-day tickets from $80, multiday tickets from $205, merlefest.org
Looking for an enticing outdoor escape? The hills of the High Country are calling…
“The future tells me go, but my mountain heart says stay.” If your heart belongs to the mountains a la country crooner/queen Dolly Parton, soothe it via a vacay to High Country. Nestled in the “Coolest Corner in North Carolina” amid the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains and home to the highest town in eastern America (aka Beech Mountain), this area offers stunning views of the second-oldest mountain range on Earth, an array of high-altitude activities, plus fantastic food and drink ops galore.
A mere three-hour-ish ride from Raleigh, such gems as Blowing Rock, Boone, West Jefferson and more make for the ideal getaway to unplug and reground yourself in the woods or simply spend some QT with your people. Thrill-seekers can pounce on the area’s plethora of extreme sports, while a lineup of laid-back activities await for those who like to play it safe. Happy trails!
EAT
6th and Main
Grandma’s house vibes found. Settle down for dinner at this home-turned-restaurant mealtime mainstay where dinner feels at once like a warm hug and a sweet surprise. The cozy locally owned gem sources local ingredients to serve up specials on the regular—think fried chicken with a spicy pecan glaze, dynamite shrimp (it’ll blow you away), lobster bisque, and more mouthwatering meals. Ain’t nothin’ finer! Wilkesboro, 6thandmainrestaurant.com
New River Brewing Smokehouse and Eatery
Let the divine scent of smoked pulled pork beckon you off the beaten path to this “palpable and positive” father-and-son-founded brewery/smokehouse where meats reign supreme. Dig into jumbo wings, ribs, sandwiches, salads and more. Pro tip: The smokehouse fries topped with pulled pork, cheese and housemade Cheerwine BBQ sauce will send you. Holy smokes, indeed! West Jefferson, newriverbrewing.beer
Beech Mountain Brewing Co.
Brews and views? It doesn’t get much better than that. Take a seat out on the deck to enjoy impeccable vistas and the classic mountain resort menu with a succulent twist—perfect for skiers and snowboarders seeking a quick bite and/or a drink after shredding the gnar. Popular ops include the smashburger, brisket sandwich and loaded fries—plus, any of the brews, natch. Beech Mountain, beechmountainbrewingco.com
DRINK
Call Family Distillers
It’s all smooth sipping at the 2023 NCRLADistillery of the Year, with a history tracing back to the 1800s (!)—plus a boost from Willie Clay Call, aka “The Uncatchable” and one of the most renowned moonshiners to come out of Wilkes County. Answer the call to get in on the mishmash via the magic of moonshine-making—then chill over a bev or two and extend the buzz via live tunes at Mash House. Wilkesboro, callfamilydistillers.com
Bohemia Coffee
But first, coffee. Keep your getaway grounded with a cuppa from this quaint downtown cafe boasting an abundance of coffee selects and flavor choices and a cozy, eclectic atmosphere. Go bold with a frozen cotton candy or dragonfly coconut drink, or stick to the basics. If you name it, they can brew it. West Jefferson, bohemiawj.square.site
5506’ Skybar
Will trek for booze. Take the chairlift up—you guessed it—5,506 feet to enjoy a bev in the warmth of the round glasshouse, or bundle up in one of the Adirondack chairs outside to really soak in the views. During the winter, you’ll actually want to drink responsibly as the only way down is by ski or snowboard (!). Beech Mountain, beechmountainresort.com
STAY
Mountain Top Cottage
Get high in High Country—literally—by taking to the hills to stay at this secluded mountaintop home. The majestic mountain vistas are the perf backdrop for exploring the extensive wooded property, snacking on s’mores by the fire pit, or taking a dip in the hot tub on the enormous deck. Top that, we dare ya! Wilkesboro, vrbo.com
The Flight Deck
Ready for takeoff? This luxe cabin at 4,500 feet is sure to lift you (plus 13 guests) to cloud nine via breathtaking views spanning 100+ miles over the Blue Ridge Mountains—best served on the swing a la wraparound porch. Inside, the game room with arcade and pool table elevates to ideal group getaway. West Jefferson, airbnb.com
Treetop Yurt
Log off and marvel at the beauty of Appalachia with a snooze curled up in a literal treehouse cabin situated just far enough from Downtown Beech Mountain to avoid the hustle and bustle, yet close enough to access the slopes. A little quiet time in the trees never *yurt* anyone! Beech Mountain, airbnb.com
DO
Brushy Mountain Apple Festival
When in apple country, this fest is a core activity to add to the to-do list, naturally. The popular Oct. 7 fall fest features all your fave apple-flavored treats (cider, dried apples, jams and desserts)—NTM 425+ artisans and tradespeople selling handmade chairs, quilts, soaps and woodcarvings; ~100 food vendors; and four music stages showcasing live music and dancing. Ready to get lost in the (apple) sauce?! Wilkesboro, applefestival.net
Blue Ridge Parkway MP 249-263
Life is a highway—er, parkway? Enjoy a stunning joyride along the winding Blue Ridge Parkway (the best time to go is the fall when all the leaves change colors!). Be sure to pack a picnic to stop at one of the six lookout spots, or venture inside Holy Trinity Church to peek at Ben Long’s fresco of the Last Supper. West Jefferson, blueridgeparkway.org
Beech Mountain Resort
Adrenaline seekers, this one’s for you. Take your bike or skis up one of the nine lifts or hit the freestyle terrain park feat. rails and jumps for beginners and pros alike at the East Coast’s highest mountain resort. Newbies, have no fear, as the resort also offers ski, snowboard and mountain bike lessons for all ages. Then it’s all downhill from there! Beech Mountain, beechmountainresort.com
Let’s go distillery-hopping! Leaning into state spirit—ahem, literally—we poured together a list of some of NC’s distillers worth drinking (or taking a detour for) the next time you’re looking to mix it up.
From mountains to seaside, these small-batch craft spirits-makers produce a range of liquors running the gamut from unique sips worth sipping like Mayberry Spirits Distillery’s single-malt sorghum whiskies made in copper stills that would surely make Andy Griffith proud to swigs that’ll give you strong beliefs—we see you Conviction.
Upping the ante in drinking behind bars, the latter award-winning small-batch bourbon by Southern Grace is distilled in a former prison (!). Clearly you should sentence yourself to do some time in Mount Pleasant to drink in its 1929 prison while you get schooled on the campus and how they create that bastille bourbon—and extend your stay for some swills, natch.
At home, we’re digging the metamorphosis of Durham Distillery’s Conniption gin with the 2022-released butterfly pea flower-infused pretty purple-hued Kinship, the third edition to its famed lineup that will no doubt calm any conniption fit.
Over on the coast, clear things up with “all the taste without the bite” via veteran-owned Blue Shark Vodka—aka reigning winner of North Carolina Restaurant & Lodging Association Chef Showdown’s People’s Choice Award. Or end your day at End of Days Distillery in Wilmington and pick your poison among a slew of spirits.
Ultimately, whether you were born to rum or you’re just looking for some gin-tuition, this cast of statewide spirits promises to raise the bar.
MerleFest 2022 brings headliners Emmy Lou Harris, Josh Turner, Old Crow Medicine Show, Nitty Gritty Dirt Band—and a whole lot more.
Spring has sprung in North Carolina and that means music fans from around the world will make their annual pilgrimage to the campus of Wilkesboro Community College for one of the country’s most beloved weekends of live music, MerleFest. Here, music writer Lisa Snedeker gives her hot take on this year’s beloved roots-based music festival.
If you haven’t already blocked off the weekend of April 28–May 1 on your calendar—trust me on this—you’re going to want to because this year’s lineup is one of the festival’s most impressive. And if you consider the fact we all met for this storied festival less than six months ago, it’s even more formidable.
While I know many festival goers will purchase tickets because they want to see the headliners—think Emmy Lou Harris, Josh Turner, Old Crow Medicine Show, Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, Greensky Bluegrass, Trampled By Turtles, Steep Canyon Rangers, Jerry Douglas and many other talented acts—it’s the myriad “other” acts you’re not going to want to miss. I often find that it’s the acts in the small print at the bottom of the festival poster that become the headliners of the future and each new festival gives you a chance to discover them before anyone else!
Caleb Caudle, a newcomer to MerleFest, is just such a performer for me. I first heard him perform at the now unfortunately defunct Phuzzfest in Winston-Salem. I knew immediately I wanted to hear more from this amazing young talent. He later introduced me to another favorite band, Raleigh-based Jack the Radio, who opened for Caudle at another Winston-Salem show in another sadly defunct music space, The Garage. I have been writing about Caudle long before Rolling Stone finally caught on to his amazing talents—and for good reason.
It’s been said that MerleFest is a homecoming, a reunion of sorts for fans and musicians alike. Familiar faces include the one and only Sam Bush, who has never missed a MerleFest since it first started on the back of a flatbed truck in the middle of a then-field; MerleFest’s house band Scythian and their friends from across the pond, We Banjo Three; The Wood Brothers; The Steel Wheels; Darrell Scott; and, well, you get the picture.
There are too many other great acts to mention them all here, but you can find a full lineup at this link.
Additionally, this year’s Late Night Jam features Hogslop String Band, whose unique sound and amazing energy I had the pleasure of experiencing at the International Bluegrass Music Association’s Wide Open Bluegrass event in Raleigh in October. The group will be joined on Saturday by myriad guests for a night of “The Times They Are A-Changin – Songs From the ’60s and ’70s Folk-Rock Revolution.”
And that brings me to Will Easter, a native son and recent graduate of WCC, who looks and sounds like he should be in a ’70s folk-rock band. He will be among those competing in this year’s Battle of the Bands, one of my favorite things to check out at MerleFest, along with the Chris Austin Songwriting Contest. Get your tickets!
