Figulina Pasta Preview

POV: digging into Figulina’s positively perfect pasta dishes

You’re not going to find pasta like Figulina’s anywhere else in Raleigh. Period. Not your run-of-the-mill Italian-American spaghetti joint, chef/owner David Ellis and team’s brand-new restaurant, which just opened in the former Humble Pie space, features just six pasta dishes on its adorably illustrated menu—and you might only recognize one or two of them by name—alongside veg-heavy small plates. 

Personally, I’ve been writing about Figulina since the concept was first announced last fall, so I was somewhat familiar with the dishes by the time I finally got the chance to dine there last week. Not to mention I got the pleasure of watching Ellis and his chef de cuisine, Dylan Shook, prepare a couple of the pasta stars at his home for a photoshoot (and I’ve been thinking about them ever since…).

Naturally, the little known rotolo was one of the dishes I ordered right out of the gate. Although chef David’s presentation of the rolled pasta had changed since his home kitchen R&D, it was everything I’d hoped it to be—and then some—thanks to its flavorful pesto-esque celery root and mustard greens filling, and buttery broth base starring whey and blue oyster mushrooms. 

Now, if you know me, you know I’m a big sauce girl, especially when it comes to pasta. But I didn’t miss it in this dish at all, nor did I in the short rib cappelletti with brothy mushroom conserva. Clearly, pasta in broth is having a moment—and I am here for it. 

That’s not to say I didn’t appreciate the saucy rigatoni with braised sweet potatoes, caciocavallo cheese and fried garlic, a treat from Ellis himself that I happily forked into despite starting to get full. Or the gnocchi (my favorite pasta shape and another must-order) feat. turnip green pesto and stracciatella. I’m calling it now: Stracc is going to be the next burrata (you heard it here first!).

Figulina’s apps deserve a round of applause as well. Namely the market lettuces sprinkled with panko and piled high with a mountain of pecorino romano. After all, “it’s not a salad without cheese,” Ellis said after I gushed over the pecorino-to-greens ratio. Clearly he got the message of my love for cheese, as he then sent out the whipped ricotta with golden beets, castelvetrano olives and marinated rainbow carrots (two words: *chef’s kiss*).

When it comes to drinks, I rec pairing your pasta with a selection from the extensive vermouth and amaro list, a highlight of the drinks menu. You can’t go wrong with a simple Negroni—or a glass of wine if that fits your fancy. Cocktails, beer and NA options are available as well. 

And, offering dinner and a show is Figulina’s pride and joy: the pasta-making room, which you can get a full view of from the large community table right next to the bar. According to Ellis, it’s the best seat in the house. But thanks to Ellis and his wife Sam’s redesign and sprucing up of the space—complete with a gorgeous mural, indoor string lights and more artwork to come—there’s not a bad spot to perch. Especially when you know you have a comforting, unique dish of pasta on the way. Bon appetit!

Related Articles

Pasta la Vista New Pasta-bilities Send Noods Pasta… Like a Chef