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Owner taps local chef for fresh revamp.
Timing is everything, and change is inevitable. So while Raleighites were distraught over the announcement of beloved nee-2017 Glenwood South restaurant Cortez’s closure, owner Charlie Ibarra realized it was time for a fresh start. And, luckily for him, former Oro executive chef Kevin Ruiz was also ready to carve a new chapter.
The dynamic duo, who maintained their connection after working together at Cortez, are joining forces once again to open Cuya Cocina Latina in the now-closed space (upstairs Cuya Bar will remain unchanged). Anticipated to open in April after an interior/exterior reno, the concept will cater to Raleigh’s changing population, as both Ibarra and Ruiz have noticed an influx of people from not only around the country, but from other parts of the Caribbean and Latin America—specifically Puerto Rico, Colombia, Peru and Venezuela.
“It’s made me think there’s not a lot of restaurants that cater to them in our city right now—and definitely not in Downtown,” observes Ibarra. “With Glenwood South an evolving street, I just thought, as much as I love Cortez, it was time to make a change—and I didn’t think this new direction made sense with the Cortez name and what Cortez was doing.”
Fittingly, the interiors will complement the cultures through warm earthy tones, patina elements, colorful tiles, greenery and wood textures, altogether crafting an intimate yet lively vibe. Think “Abuela’s house, but modernized,” dubs Ibarra. The chef’s kiss? A retractable all-season pergola slated for this summer, transforming the patio into a weatherproof oasis.
The menu will likewise reflect those cultures in dishes such as ceviche, Cortez-throwback char-grilled oysters, Peruvian steak dish lomo saltado, lobster mofongo, and esquites-style corn ribs. Empanadas will also star, pulling from myriad influences—think Caribbean-inspired and a Mexican-ode quesabirria version—and additionally appear on the late-night menu (10pm to midnight).
The uberpopular Cortez smashburger will also remain, alongside reimagined takes on octopus and gambas—the popular menu item Raleighites begged to stay, shares Ibarra. For its part, the bar program will also play to Pan-Latin cultures via Caribbean rums, such Mexican agave spirits as tequila and mezcal, and South American potables as Peruvian pisco and Colombian aguardiente. Those bold flavors come to life in fresh, vibrant handcrafted cocktails—much like at upstairs bar Cuya—from mojitos and piña coladas to pisco sours and frozen cocktails (one with agave and one with rum).
“We’re really trying to bring everything together,” says Ruiz. “Cuya is now one living thing with two different sides to it. We want it to be thought of as two places—like ‘I just finished dinner and now I want to go grab some cocktails upstairs.’
In essence, Ibarra and Ruiz’s new Cuya Cocina Latina proves that sometimes a positive shift can unlock a world of new flavors and opportunities. You just have to get on board. @cuyacocina
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